How to: Adding power lock actuators (mechanical install only)

This covers mechanical installation only. The electrical portion of the installation will vary, depending on the remote unit you're installing.

I expanded my

$90 Viper 4115V 1-Way Remote Start System

Viper 4115V remote start with a DEI 451M module, which enabled keyless entry function. The 4115V is sold as a remote start only module and comes with 1-button remotes. Adding the module and a 4-button remote enables the keyless entry function. I didn't bother even mounting an interior lock/unlock switch, I thought about it but didn't really see the merit. My primary concern is being able to lock/unlock it when I'm not actually IN the truck.

My goal was a very minimally intrusive installation. I dislike installing stuff like this that isn't OEM, so I always strive for absolute minimal disruption or modification to existing components. After careful consideration, I opted to install a secondary, small dia. actuating rod made from music wire. That said, I am extremely happy with how this came out, how it functions, and again, how minimally invasive the install was.

I also bought OEM replacement power window regulators. I decided not to tackle both projects (locks and windows) at the same time, so that's a battle for another day. The first side took about 2 hours (trial & error), the second side took about 30 min.

I hope this thread will help others, this method of installation is easy, and required less hacking/modifying than other installs I've seen.

I modified the latch/lock handle housing as shown, drilling a hole at an angle for the new lock actuator rod.



I slightly enlarged the hole that the lock cable goes into, because it will now be shared with the OEM lock cable and the new actuator rod (music wire). It doesn't need to be enlarged much to accept both cables.



This shown the new rod bent and installed into the housing.


Completed latch/lock housing, ready for reattaching to the door.


I modified the actuator mounting holes using a c'sink tool, so I could use flat-head screws for mounting.


Shows the modified actuator, before trimming off the excess flashing created from the c'sink operation.



Through trial and error, this is the final mounting location. There's plenty of room for the actuator, but it does need to be located accurately so as to not interfere with features on the back side of the door panel.


Final mechanical assembly, ready to put the door panel back on.