^^ How To: AEM F/IC-6 Install, Tuning, and Help Thread

To anyone that has switched over from the 7th injector setup to the AEM F/IC-6, did you wire your 7th injector into the AEM unit and ditch the URD controller, or did you just go to bigger injectors? I like that the 7th injector cools the supercharger, it would be a bummer to lose that with the AEM and bigger injectors.

 

The cooling effect from the 7th injection would be very minimal,
It’s NOTHING like a methonal kit that lowers temperature by 100 degrees when spraying.

 

Although I love the idea of making more power and cooling from a methonal kit, I’m not sure I want that on my daily. Having to refill it all the time seems like it could be a pain. Hence why I’m looking at either keeping the 7th or going to larger injectors.

 

Don't let that hold you back, I put a 2.5 gal tank in the bed and I don't have to refill it often. Meth/water is more than worth it for the power boost, even with bigger injectors which I have.

 

Yes, the methonal is definitely more maintenance, but ALOT of benefits you can’t get otherwise.
105 octane
Eliminate pinging
Drop intake temperature by 100 degrees
More timing = More power
Eliminating heat soaked supercharger
Creates denser air
Eliminates carbon in the throttle body
Eliminates carbon in the intake valve section
Essentially it steam cleans the carbon out of the Piston areas too
Check out how clean my intake is because of the methanol compared to a non methanol setup.
And my throttle body is AWAYS squeaky clean with zero build up too, never needs cleaning anymore.

 

Might have to seriously consider going this route. I like the idea of putting a 2-3 gallon tank under the bed and running a fill port up to the gas fill door. How much methanol do you typically go through per tank?

 

It all depends on your engines needs and if it’s supercharged and the amount of extra fuel( methonal) it needs for your application.
I use my windshield tank, so A gallon will go=

If you need or use a #1 nozzle probably 1500 miles,
if you need a #2 nozzle 900 miles,
a 3 nozzle 500 -600 miles.
I run a #4 nozzle and need refilling about 400-500. Depending on how heavy your foot is.

It only is in use for my needs when I hit 4 pounds of boost up. Otherwise it’s not spraying.

Each engine is different for its needs.

But I have a 2” pulley, ported supercharger, ported throttle body, 10 pounds of boost, so typically a #4 nozzle would not be used.

If I keep my boost under 4 pounds I use zero methonal.
So there are factors to consider

If your not supercharged a #1 nozzle would probably work,

I have around 40,000 miles on my methonal kit,
I can’t say enough good stuff about my experiences with it.
Wish I had know about it earlier but there was little to zero info
here about methonal injection and I took a gamble.
Now there are plenty of members adding the system with all the positive feedbacks.

This is an excellent fix, but again some motors have issues.

but unfortunately doesn't deal with tuning the ECU

There are ping happy motors, no one is sure why,

But it could be caused by
Carbon issues in the valves intake and pistons,like the photo posted
a bad or poor fuel pump pressure issues,
A bad or poor fuel regulator,
A dirty fuel filter in the tank,
A dirty inline fuel filter,
Dirty fuel injectors,

 

Add a photo where you put that tank under the frame and supply line for filling

 

Big smiles after getting my fic-6 wired in an running with a basic setup, most of my SC issues on the stock ECU are gone, only a tiny struggle near redline but I have not done any tuning yet. Truck runs much better: just the automatic maps provide enough tweaks during boost to correct many issues with the stock setup.

Be aware that the documentation in this thread is out of date, and that the parallel thread on toyota-4runner is more up to date (e.g. cam sensor resistor diagrams in this thread are wrong (didn't work for me on the output side, needed resistor on the input side as documented over there and everywhere else).

FWIW, the cam sensor modification also needs a capacitor on the output side, IMHO, and I have a 1uF bipolar coming. I stacked up a bunch of ceramics (non-polar) to make 1.2uF, wired across CAM1 MAGO+ and CAM1 MAGO-, and the output signal much more closely matched the input signal in waveform shape (verified on oscilloscope) and amplitude (no more spikes tapering off to visible infinity, instead a signal slightly more erratic than stock but still 'vaguely similar' to stock rather than 'completely different' without the capacitor). I ordered a nice Nichicon non-polar capacitor for permanent installation. I think that is a fundamentally better path but may only affect things like longevity, or nothing at all. Although I am not throwing a code either with just the 2.2k bias resistor installed or both the resistor and makeshift capacitor stack, the stock signal with that resistor installed is a much prettier waveform than the spiked FIC-6 output signal without a capacitor, and the capacitor makes the output signal night-and-day closer to the input signal. Capacitors are a standard way to control exactly that type of spike, I am not sure why they have not been included in the basic AEM design or suggested here (or over there...) with so many references to the youtube video with oscilloscope display of the input/output signals.

-Bob
tinkerer

 

I've been keeping up with the t4r guys when it's time to install mine - is there a specific thread that's got the info in it or is it just the sc page?

 

From post #8 in this thread:

 

Is anyone running an F/IC on a 95-97 ECM? I'm loosing my frickin mind with this thing ! ! I've triple checked my wiring, everything is wired correctly (as far as I can tell) but the truck will not start with the F/IC plugged in. Does anyone have any suggestions?

 

97 ECU is different than the 95-96 ECU.

FYI

 

Exact same pin-outs, that's what matters here. I'd like to be able to check my wiring against a successful install on a 95-97.

 

Why won't it start - I mean what is it not doing, cranking, getting spark, fuel, etc?

 

It just cranks and cranks. Pull the F/IC and she fires right up. I've had the unit bench tested by AEM, they say it's good to go, which only leaves my splice job. My eyes have crossed from staring at pin-outs.

 

You should test to see if it's getting spark and fuel. Basic crank no start analysis can tell you what's not happening to give a better idea of the issue.

 

So I’ve been going over this thread repeatedly, and I’ve got some questions... more or less want opinions. My last truck was a 2000 3.4 5 speed xtra cab. Had a gray TRD supercharger with a URD 7th, 2.2 pulley, headers, and a magnaflow cat back. I had no complaints with the 7th injector kit, truck always ran great, and I never tuned it, just ran the base map. It would occasionally give me a single ping on a quick downshift followed by WOT, but that was it. I now have an 04 double cab 3.4 auto. It has a black supercharger with a magnaflow cat back. My only noticeable issue is an occasional hard ping after coaxing a downshift, usually after WOT. I’m very interested in the AEM FIC6, but I’m leaning toward the URD 7th mainly because it’s what I’m familiar with. How happy has everyone been with it? Is tuning necessary? Can it run on a base map with little to no issues? I live in Colorado if that helps at all, and I’m not very familiar with the tuning aspect of something like the URD 7th or the AEM FIC6

 

Did you run the base map? For Colorado
Or did you have to do a bunch of programming?

 

FYI There is no "base" map for the FIC6, you build it your self.

The 7th is more of a install and forget it kind of unit VS building a map and for the most part constantly making small adjustments to the AEM.