^^ How To: AEM F/IC-6 Install, Tuning, and Help Thread

Ah so therefore I’ll have to tune it as wideband, more complicated to set up in the software but easier to see what afrs you are going for. Cool, same goes for t100s or...?

 

I think ~ 2000 was when Toyota went to 2 cat setup. Not sure.

 

Alright, would make sense as to why my buddy can’t get closed tuning to even start. I think 99 in Cali 4Runners and 2000 on tacomas (2000 for sure bc that’s when you change machines for smog)

 

This is my best try to write up what the 2002 cali (if it is different) Harness for future reference for others.

Also was able to find this website that had all of the wiring charts for our trucks.
https://docplayer.net/21002873-Ecu-...arisons-1995-5-2004-toyota-tacoma-trucks.html

 

There should be an option for AFR sensor in the closed loop tuning area. Others have been able to get it working.

 

Yes but I'm pretty sure his is narrowband and missing the resistor lol.

 

Isn't that the same one i posted?

 

No, it had charts for every single year ecm for auto to manual swaps. Was very helpful for figuring out the change in wire positions between my truck and the harness I got. You could use what you posted, you just have to have the exact year for the ecm. And it is free, no TIS or hoping the ttora page with the diagrams and everything is your exact year.

 

Anyone here that has installed the f/Ic-6, you have

Any before and after Dyno chart numbers?
Or just after rear wheel numbers?
To see what the actually numbers are?


F/IC-6

 

Just installing the FIC doesn't automatically add HP. You will have to tune it to your truck but if you have a ton of dyno time you could pickup HP safely in the higher rpm.


FYI my truck rips up Vail, Ike, Floyd hill at 5-8 psi fully loaded for a family camp weekend in the fast lane at a very safe 12.5-11.5 AFR with a simple road tune.

 

On the lookout for more power over there?

To my understanding, fic-6 is a true way to tune our trucks correctly and changing the afr is all we are trying to do. This allows us to run more timing safely without knock. Timing is what makes more power, somewhere near 10 hp per degree. And once tuned perfectly (is there a such thing) any rpm is fine for fun.

I've seen threads on here where the ecu was pulling around 9* of timing due to the sc, so 70 hp from stock is probable the max you can get from the fic-6. (conservatively) Unless someone has gotten more?

 

While it’s possible to make more power by adding fuel, like URD MAF cal making 20hp on a stock 2nd gen truck, I don’t think that just adding fuel in boost will allow you to run more timing. Really it’s it’s octane that allows you to run more timing by slowing the flame front. Just adding fuel could actually cost you HP and just burns fuel.

If @OVTune could chime in on this and expand on it a little it would help. From what I’ve seen he runs his cars leaner than most of us. He mentioned he was running 14.7 un until ~ 8 psi and that’s all he needed on one of his cars and had a similar tune on his boosted tundra.

I also think that the stock ECU is really what holds us back. You also cannot add timing with any piggyback. All you can do is prevent knock so that the ECU won’t pull timing too much when it detects knock. And to add to that the stock ECU only uses the knock sensors above 3000rpm.

When I’m driving around depending on gear, load, temperature etc. I can see that the stock ECU just reduces timing based on a map you cannot adjust. So just because you see 9 degrees of timing does not mean that you are getting knock and adding fuel will fix that. It’s just the way the ECU was programmed.

The other issue here is that the knock issue on these truck are stock map tune issues with the S/C. So if you’re getting ping in high gear low RPM you can pull timing to fix that but now you’ve pulled timing across that RPM range/boost level no matter what gear you’re in. @1997tacomav6 wont have this issue because he’s a manual but I’m doubtful that one can just add fuel on a truck thats already running as much timing as possible and make more power. Possibly 20hp in closed loop though like the 2nd gen MAF Kit can do.

It would be interesting to see how much a good tuner could make with his truck though. Since he doesn’t need extra fueling because he relies on a meth kit and he doesn’t have issues with ping so he does not need timing control he could just get the URD closed loop o2 sensor module and tune for more fuel in closed loop.

A standalone would really be the best route for this though as the tuner could actually add timing and have full control over fueling across the RPM range.

 

Got it all hooked up and working finally, could someone help me with the tuning? I understand the theory but putting it into the software is getting to me, I had to put in 16% duty at idle and at all 14.7 afr to get stft and ltft to 0, not quite sure what I have in the o2 map works as well, seems like its already tuning it out. Also at open loop does your fuel table cut a bunch of fuel or not?

 

Little bit of helpful information for future people: the 2002 boomslang harness I used to make a working harness had one wire wrong; the E02 wire was tapped into the E2 pin. I would highly recommend rechecking the wires on any boomslang harness that you may try to use. Once I fixed that, the aem worked perfectly and tunes well.

 

@mechanicjon @Shortman5 @TMFF When the truck switches from closed to open are you having to pull a bunch of fuel to get it to be at the afr you want but stft and ltft when in closed still small numbers?

(16.4 is to try to keep fuel trims low at 14.7) open loop starts at 20 psia

 

don’t worry about fuel trims in open loop.

 

Of course, but the change from 28.1>>7.8 seems weird to me. I'm only worrying about trims in closed and once it hits open if I have the same amount of fuel as before, It goes down to 10:1 afr. Why do you get the jump down in fuel added when you change from closed to open? What causes it? Do I have something wrong in my tuning for me top need to do this?

 

get the AFR you want in open loop.

Also open loop can happen at a few different places in your map so do lots of road tuning to tune those spots.

And different injectors, injector sizes, trucks play into how much fuel is added or taken out in closed and open loop.

 

When it goes into open loop the ecm does go by afr's it goes by predetermined fuel map. Just concentrate on closed loop afr's. Your adding alot of fuel at idle and high vacuum. What dioes your O2 map look like?

 

Have you done this:
narrow band O2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z_IyLEJFEB4
wideband O2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GZNDCT9UjQQ