^^ How To: AEM F/IC-6 Install, Tuning, and Help Thread

I just installed the AEM 50-1220 340 high flow fuel pump over the weekend.
Now I don’t need any methonal for fuel.
No ping at any spots.
So I’m guessing the Added consist pressure with the stock injectors and pressure will do the trick.

 

Yeah. Ive tried aftermarket fuel pumps. Not a fan. If I do anything it will be a BAP. But before that a fuel pressure gauge will tell me everything I need to know.

 

Did you try the AEM pump?

 

AEm is pretty darn quiet, pnp as far as wiring (had to slice connector, but no bigger wires) but I also had to cut and flare the brass that comes down to the pump. Though with the problems I am having right now, idk whats causing it. could be fuel pump, might not. Would recommend upgrading to e85 compatable if you can afford, better to do it once and not worry later if you decide to go for better

 

Got this baby in my 3RZ 2.7l Supercharged truck. I used the Boomslang harness so it could be plug n play. Looks like Boomslang has since discontinued the 3RZ harness, and AEM got rid of the FIC 6.

Gotta figure out a better way to mount it all. Drove through three states like this back home lol

 

The AEM 50-1220 fuel pump you hear it just when you turn the key on for a few seconds at start up and that’s it.
The wires are a thicker gauge on the AEM pump, stock fuel pump wires are a smaller gauge.
AEM 1220 is compatible with E85 fuel.
I bought my pump online from advanced auto with a 20 percent app discount with shipping for 95.00.
Had to swap out the electrical connector and wire it in.
Otherwise it’s almost the exact same size as the stock DENSO pump.
Rated at 340 LPH,
Here’s a photo of the stock DENSO pump and the AEM pump.

 

Ok? I have a 340 aem, 50-1000 (for a good price) I dont understand what you're trying to say...

 

Love it!

 

Well, fuck. Need some input from those of you with 03-04 trucks. I cannot get rid of the idle fluctuations. ARSs aren’t steady 14.5-15.8, RPMs are not steady. Not too crazy, just incredibly annoying.

Ive tried hex files, zeros on ever map, injector response changes.

I’m using mostly stock sized injectors. The Densos that Toyota used on the 1MZ.

Using the bypass harness fixes it.

 

Unrelated, but do you ever get a bad crank intermittently? Mine will be running fine on a tune and randomly when I go to start it it’ll make an awful grinding sound, maybe cam position/timing related.

 

Mine is 97, so obviously different, but all I can say is I didn't use the Cam wires, just Crank.

Do you have the Rpm and Load colum/row built?

Is your Load Input Maf or Map?

Other mods?

 

Ive noticed that the wire harness takes some working to get fully seated in the FIC. I was trying to be gentle but after misfires making sure it was fully seated solved that issue.

 

Load input is MAP.

the Load/RPM column were tweaked for higher resolution for my use. 10psi 5500rpm.

Other mods are headers.



It might be the whole Cam/Crank issue that everyone either figures out or gives up on.

Since I don’t really ping I didn’t want to use any of that shit. I only wanted fueling for leaning out.

I ended up tapping a “CRANK HALL In +” off of the IGF signal and it seems to calibrate fine and is close enough to the OBD2 readings.

That being said, I I’m not educated in understanding signals etc. I figured it would work after googling the pulse waves of Hall effect sensors and IGF signal and assumed they “looked” close enough.

but I still have no way of knowing how clean that IGF signal is or if it’s even suitable.

anybody know where I can get some resistors on a weekend?

 

The crank sensor on a Toyota is a VR sensor not hall, VR generate a voltage and are overall much more sensitive (noisy to something looking for a hall input). Hall effect use magnetic fields to disturb an existing voltage. You probably need a large resistor to act as a filter.

 

@Shortman5

These can help

https://www.fueltech.net/products/vr-hall-converter?variant=31668093386817&currency=USD

 

Thank you. I’d probably be better off just wiring up up a little different.

I figured that if the split second can use the “IGF” signal as a tach reference that the AEM should also be able to do the same.

Anything else I can try? Maybe just tapping the MAG In + instead of intercepting?

Overall goal is to avoid running cam/crank through the FIC. I just need to get a reference for the FIC.

 

Just wire it properly. You can zero the ign map. Atleast it will read rpm properly and you are ready for boost when the day comes.

 

Mine does the same thing in park or neutral. I was thinking it was an injector issue since mine are original, never been cleaned 320k miles on them. I've learned to live with it it. Looks like you changed injectors but that didn't help?

 

Nope. It’s not an injector thing.

I think it’s something to do with our electronic valve bodies. When compensating for idle, especially AC compensation, it’s worse. something is getting confused.

instead of using a AIC valve our throttle plates are constantly moving about. Which my just be complaining things. Also, if the AEM is sending noise etc. though that TPS wire it might be the issue.

Wondering if it would be better to use the PPS wire instead since it does not move under idle.


Ive thought about just disconnecting the TPS wire to see if it would work.

Next thought is it’s the MAF running through changes the resistance and it dosent like it.


Ive also noticed that my “Battery voltage” in th AEM cluster is lower than what my OBD readers gives me. But I can’t figure out why that is.

Could be any of things or others that I’m not considering. I guess there’s a lot of “electrical” noise at idle and something is messing with it. But I don’t have the proper tooling to do a deep dive on it.

 

I think it might be what you're saying, did you tap the TPS or PPS to give input to the FIC?