^^ How To: AEM F/IC-6 Install, Tuning, and Help Thread

I'm running 91 octane

 

That's so strange. I'm running 10psi with no meth and I'm taking out .25 degrees of timing out per pound of boost and I have no pinging...
Forgive me for my not knowing, but when does the SC start building boost?

 

1/4 to 1/3 throttle at any rpm

 

is the boomslang wire harness worth the price?

will i need to wire anything else into the AEM FIC-6 controller? as far as the standalone AFR gauge goes for tuning purposes does that need to be connected to the aem FIC controller also?

dont want to purchase the plug and play harness and need to splice "extra" things/components to the harness anyway afterwards?

 

Read my post on pg 4 regarding how the ecu controls timing. The meth may be why he could ping before boost.

I actually have to pull 1-2 degrees from -4 inhg to 0 psi. If I'm crusing in 5th below 3000 rpms and slowly accelerate, I get a couple light pings in the vacuum region right before boost. I may just have one of the "ping happy" trucks but I don't think this is the case as I have generally no ping in boost. This I why I changed my driving habits to avoid "lugging" it. I downshift a bit more than I used to. I also try not to boost heavily until I am at 3000 rpms. I can avoid most of the ping this way.

 

Just for the record here, I do not have any retard set in my tune. Having said that, I am at 4000ft (which helps) and only run about 25-30% methanol in my WI system.

 

So just to give a baseline from us turbo guys, we don't have to subtract timing until boost, and even then most guys aren't subtracting it until mid boost. @vasinvictor ran 9psi and never retarded timing and some turbo guys even talk about adding timing with e85, so im not real sure whats going on with the SC'd 5vz's

 

Read up on how roots super chargers work. We're talking about 10 psi at 1000 rpms. Ping-fucking-city.

And for the record the stock ecu pulls quite a bit of timing even NA on those hotter days. I would say at around 12 psi on the stock timing map you would start to detonate in the worst external conditions. The 5vz has relatively high compression so you definitely need to pull more than the 1 degree per psi rule of thumb. The reason most people can get by without it is because the stock ecu can pull up to 30 degrees which is evidently sufficient for 10 psi, intercooled but not 10 psi from a roots SC.

I have "zero'd" my timing map on e85 but the ecu is certainly pulling a lot of timing. I would say about 15 degrees at 13 psi, 85 F ambient.

 

I was assuming they just made hot boost at low rpms.
I mean a standalone will solve everyone's problems right?
Well if there was a meth kit that was based off TPS that would work alot better for the SC guys. Also I believe I'm 24 degrees adv at 4.5psi which seems pretty good. (EDIT: it should be like 28.75 degrees advanced but I think the ECU pulls a little bit more for some reason)

 

Exactly. The roots blower is essentially setting up the engine to ping. I generally follow the 1 degree per lb of boost rule or more, below 3000 rpms. But above 3000 rpms I'm probably closer to 1 psi or less per lb of boost. Once the knock sensors take over, they should be able to manage most of the knock.

 

Yea throttle position makes a big difference for us SC guys. That's essentially what controls boost. Holy crap, at 4.5 lbs of boost your timing advance is at 24 degrees? Is this just reading from an obd scan tool? I see 24 degrees at light acceleration. I just posted the other day in a T4R thread because I feel like my ecu pulls too much timing. In boost my scanguge says my timing is ~10 degrees. Then I have to factor in the timing I am pulling with my piggyback. So I'm probably in the single digits... was hoping to figure out if something Is wrong or if this is normal for SC 5vz

 

The only time I get a small ping is when I approach a hill that normally would not require down shifting and I leave it in 5th gear.
If I depress the gas pedal and go into boost the ping goes away. Or if I down shift and raise the rpm's it goes away.
But even a small amount of pinging will raise my cooling temp by 2° and once it has raised it by 4°. I have gotten to the point of being afraid to listen to music loud and missing the pinging.

 

I'm honestly not sure if something is wrong or not...And you have to consider every year of ECU tends to handle things a bit differently, but most major function occur at the same time (open loop is an exception and seems to be based off of RPM for some and TPS for other year models) I know with the AEM I can read accurately the amount of timing I actually have, like if I pulled 10 degrees the scangauge would go from 30 degrees advanced to 20 degrees advanced. I could get some screen shots of my timing map if you want. Usually at light load (3000<) I'm around 34-26 degrees advanced.

 

You're looking at it wrong. If you pull timing in the FIC you will get timing back in the ecu. By how you're describing it it sounds like you are running at 5 degrees advance which is 25 retard which is pretty dangerous. When people are talking about timing it's generally at WOT and maximum load for the record.

 

I'm not even sure how arrived at that first conclusion... When the scan gauge reads a positive number, say 25, that means 25 degrees advanced. When it reads a negative value that means retarded. Also what does "If you pull timing in the FIC you will get timing back in the ecu" mean? if I take that at what I think it means, it means that if I subtract a degree in the AEM I add a degree in the ECU, which isn't true since the AEM can only subtract timing.

And why would people only talk about timing at WOT and full load? I was just describing to kigmob the timing behavior I see on my truck during cruising.

 

Y'all making me second guess buying a sc. Are the extra beans worth it to you guys - that's almost a redundant question since you all have them (minus the turbo guys so just @Phessor lol)

 

I think second gens have some better tuning options through URD, but I would always want to turbo a first gen vs supercharging one. You just have so much more room to make power with a turbo

 

My thing is I just want a small amount of power to overcome frictional forces in the drivetrain. I think the stock pulley should work for me.

 

If you just want a little boost in power and don't have a power goal in mind, a SC is just fine, but personally I would never feel right about shoving that hot air into my motor