1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

How to bleed air out of radiator

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Cornflake, Dec 14, 2018.

  1. Dec 14, 2018 at 4:04 PM
    #41
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2011
    Member:
    #51038
    Messages:
    17,612
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Justin
    El Dorado, CA (NOT El Dorado Hills)
    Vehicle:
    '04 TRD Tacoma 4x4 DC
    Kings, J59's Total Chaos UCAs Custom skids Sticker mod
    Just go with what you're comfortable with.

    If you do end up changing brands or whatever, it's better to flush the system out, but whatever you used before should be fine.
     
    Cornflake[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  2. Dec 14, 2018 at 4:04 PM
    #42
    Cornflake

    Cornflake [OP] 95.5 Tacoma 2.7 4x4

    Joined:
    Nov 19, 2018
    Member:
    #273195
    Messages:
    166
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jeremy
    West Georgia
    Vehicle:
    Tan 1995.5 Toyota Tacoma 2.7 4x4
    Clear Blinker lens 15x8 black American Racing wheels 31x10.50r15 Ironman all country
    Good deal. I appreciate it
     
  3. Dec 14, 2018 at 5:01 PM
    #43
    RysiuM

    RysiuM Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 18, 2015
    Member:
    #167004
    Messages:
    2,710
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Rysiu
    Was Golden State, now Poland EU
    Vehicle:
    1995 4x4 LX Ext Cab, I4 2.7, MT, 335K miles
    DD Deck+backup camera, LED DRL, All LED except H4 Hella
    1st gen Toyota uses red coolant 50/50 (if it is condensed it requires to be diluted 50-50 with distilled water). For 2.7 4x4 coolant flush see the whole process I had in my link posted earlier. Because you can't drain 100% every time than I recommend use distilled water for flushing, as that water will stay in your engine mixed with condensed coolant at the end. At the end some calculation is required how much condensed coolant must be added before topping off with diluted 50-50.
     
    Cornflake[OP] likes this.
  4. Dec 14, 2018 at 5:43 PM
    #44
    Exracer2

    Exracer2 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 7, 2016
    Member:
    #204304
    Messages:
    1,516
    Gender:
    Male
    Colchester Ontario
    Vehicle:
    2017 TRD Off-Road Alpine White ACLB
    BRO grille, KICKER speakers, Key amp, Hideaway sub
    Bleeding procedure is dependant on the make and model of engine. Without getting too complicated my personal system is to fill the rad and overfill the overflow tank. With the rad cap off I squeeze and work both the upper and lower rad hoses to burp it as best as I can. The key is to get fluid into the engine or else everything else is a waste of time. You can also crack the bolts on the thermostat housing to ensure fluid gets at least that far but you can also just piss a lot on the ground if you don’t know what you are doing. The whole idea is to get enough fluid into the motor and ensure you don’t have hot spots. At the same time you want the fluid to get hot enough to heat the thermostat so it will open. Once it opens you will usually get a huge burp. My reasoning for the overfilled overflow tank is once the air has burped out (and may continue to do so for a few trips / days) you need to suck fluid back into the coolant system as it cools down. You might think you have burped the system fully but then you do a longer trip and it burps a bit of air again and then you are low.

    E192ED91-4E51-42B7-ACAE-5955E0A46A5E.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2018
  5. Dec 15, 2018 at 12:33 AM
    #45
    RysiuM

    RysiuM Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 18, 2015
    Member:
    #167004
    Messages:
    2,710
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Rysiu
    Was Golden State, now Poland EU
    Vehicle:
    1995 4x4 LX Ext Cab, I4 2.7, MT, 335K miles
    DD Deck+backup camera, LED DRL, All LED except H4 Hella
    OP has exactly the same model and year as my truck (minus AT) so the process that worked for me will work for his truck. Because of AT the final calculation for amount of condensed coolant to add might be different tho.
     
  6. Dec 15, 2018 at 7:54 AM
    #46
    pulldo

    pulldo Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2014
    Member:
    #124586
    Messages:
    603
    Gender:
    Male
    houston, texas
    Vehicle:
    95 dlx, 2.7l, 4wd, 5 spd.
    On my 95', i pulled the block plug which is located on passenger side of block up high just below the valve cover at the front of the motor, hard to see with the manifold in the way, I used a mirror to find it and take it out. Pretty good high point on the block to push air out.
     
    Cornflake[OP] likes this.
  7. Dec 15, 2018 at 10:32 AM
    #47
    RysiuM

    RysiuM Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 18, 2015
    Member:
    #167004
    Messages:
    2,710
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Rysiu
    Was Golden State, now Poland EU
    Vehicle:
    1995 4x4 LX Ext Cab, I4 2.7, MT, 335K miles
    DD Deck+backup camera, LED DRL, All LED except H4 Hella
    Did you mean the block drain plug? I used it to drain block when I was doing head gasket job. Very messy and still leaves more than a quart of old coolant in the block. It's not worth the trouble. You can get 99% flush by draining through the radiator 5-6 times.
     
  8. Dec 15, 2018 at 12:24 PM
    #48
    1997tacomav6

    1997tacomav6 V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger,Haltech, 800k

    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2013
    Member:
    #113940
    Messages:
    10,367
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    John
    Denver
    Vehicle:
    97 reg cab, v6 5sp 300hp supercharged, Methonal Injection, 800,001 plus miles, Original Owner
    V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger, 56mm pulley, methanol injected Haltech ECU, AC Tvs1320 supercharger,(MUST DO) every 125,000- 150,000 needs rebuild Projector headlights HID 5 speed manual Amsoil for all drive train Smaller 56mm custom pulley, (MUST DO) 2004 DESNO fuel injectors, zero ping ping, 2004 side door mirrors Dick Cepek Rims, Michelin tires LTX, ATM Pathfinders Dynopro ATM ( that last 100,000 miles) Now running Dynopro ATM mud and snow tires KN cold air intake Cat back dual exhaust with ss exhaust tip, Raised exhaust tail pipe to 2" below body line Optima*dry cell battery,red top Alpine sirius radio, 200 watt amp, focal is165 split door pod speakers Focal door speakers Subwoffer behind seat Viper alarm, Electric Locks Dark tinted windows, bucket seats corbeau lg1 Tacoma Rubber floor mats TRD fender extenders, Bilstien shocks, King shocks JBA UCA trailer iv hitch, electric brake control, Drilled slotted brakes, High carbon steel (MUST DO) EBS green stuff 7000 series pads(MUST DO) TRD engine oil cap TRD stick shift, Marlin crawl shift kit. Rear sliding window 2002 4Runner functional hood scoop cut into Tacoma hood, 4Runner dual overhead map light Gentex Auto dim + Compass + Temp, garage,rearview mirror Snow Methonal kit stage 2 Custom 3 core aluminum radiator Linex bed liner Haltech stand alone ECU, Intake supercharger gauge. Stainless steel brake lines, Custom leather wrapped steering wheel, Haltech stand-alone ECU,
    You have to use the lisle funnel or something like it because the heater core hoses are actually higher than the radiator cap and the system will not be completely filled even if it’s full at the radiator cap. With that said the heater core valve has to be open to allow fluid to go through
     
    RysiuM likes this.

Products Discussed in

To Top