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How to build an Expedition Tacoma?

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by zerocool120, Apr 2, 2011.

  1. Apr 21, 2011 at 11:09 PM
    #61
    06TRDZombieHunter

    06TRDZombieHunter Well-Known Member

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    K&N Intake System Port and Polish of TB x2 E3 Diamondfire Sparkplugs 2.5" Leveling kit 32" BFG A/Ts Zombie Response decals Custom painted grill, trim under headlights, scoop, intake and manifold. No more mud flaps, Temp gauge inside intake box, BHLM, extra D-rings in front of bed, No more plastic storage box behind rear seats. More to come.
    Subscribed
    Hoping for some cool ideas from here...
     
  2. Apr 21, 2011 at 11:13 PM
    #62
    Kyouto42

    Kyouto42 Iron Beard

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    Jake
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    See build thread in signature
    I'm building my truck in a similar manner... though honestly I don't know how much or if I'll really be doing long expo trips. I would like to hit up MOAB and go for some out of state extended runs so... I want the truck to be capable of it. Most of this is already pointed out in the thread, but I'll just share the thoughts I have on my project in particular, and why I'm doing what I'm doing.

    First, I got a 2010 TRD Off-Road doublecab auto with towing package.
    - 4.0L V6 is a beast compared to the I4
    - Auto... on the second gens it's a superior transmission in everything from strength to gearing ratios. Also, it really is easier to go off road in an auto in *most* situations, at least most you'd encounter while doing an expo type trail run.
    - Locker + A-Trac... gives great traction control out the door. Ideally, you should never HAVE to use it to get into any situation. It's nice to have it though, if you do screw up :D Yes, it's not nearly as strong as an ARB air locker front and rear... but it will do the job properly used.
    - TRD Seats. As mentioned, I find them vastly more comfortable
    - Towing package has the transmission cooler to help it under loads
    - 09+ TRD Off-Roads also have a massive break booster over the other models (including sport). This is mainly for ATRAC and DAC (downhill assist control)... but it's also peace of mind for me.
    - Also, down hill assist is pretty niphty. Necessary, no... but fun to play with :D


    Mods
    Interior:
    - Wet Okole seat covers. Water proof neoprene protect and keep the cab clean even in muddy, rainy trips. Easy to clean, and it really completes the look of the truck.
    - Weathertech floor liners. There have been recently some full rubber replacement floors... which would be superior. However, these are easy to put in, cover (bs estimate) 99% of the floor space you'll use... and make clean up from tracking mud and such a breeze.
    - Cobra75 CB (Plus 4' Firestick Antenna). Communication while doing off-roading with buddies that have CB's. Eventually I'd like to get HAM as well.
    - IPod interface. More tunes in the middle of nowhere is a personal must :D
    - 4x4 light up mod. Not needed, but makes it easier to find lol.

    Suspension
    - Fox 2.5" coilovers on the front. Smooth ride, will take extended abuse periods without fade. Provides additional adjustable clearance in the front. Rebuildable if the valves fail.
    - Total Chaos Upper Control arms - Required for the sized tires I'm running and angles the suspension will sit at. Fatter tires will rub (285/75/R16) on stock arms.
    - Timbren bumpstops. I'm using these because, I also wheel the truck pretty stupid hard in addition to exploration. Makes bottoming out a much less jarring and less painful experience... let alone easier on the truck.
    - 2.0 remote resi Fox shocks on the rear (OakleyTRD shock from Down South Motorsports). Again, same deal as the front Fox's though not adjustable.
    - AllPro Expedition Pack leaf springs. Tuned for additional weight in expedition setups to run like the normal leaf springs. Even without the weight they still flex pretty nice and keep your hauling/towing capacity up (bonus in my eyes for a truck).
    - AllPro U-bolt flip kit. Primarily used to reduce the hangup points below the axles.
    - Removed sway bar. Makes it lean a bit on the road turning, and can be dangerous if unexpected or rapid manovering is needed. However with the Fox coilovers, they're stiff enough to counteract most of that downside, and it allows better travel without it. Plus it'd interfear with my current skid plates with the relocation kit due to the coilovers.

    Tires
    - BFG KM2 (6ply) 285/75/R16. Picked because a lot of AZ guys run them, and seeing them in action in person.... they're effing amazing. You'd shit bricks seeing what a guy we have running an open diff 2wd 5 lugger is doing out in the desert with these puppies.
    - Procomp 7089's. Choosen for the correct 4.5" backspacing to prevent issues running the larger tires. Also they're reasonably priced, a pretty strong alloy, and I think they look pretty snazzy.
    - Full matched spare. One for now, probably two if I do plan to do an expo trip. Full sized is a must off-road, and your diffs will thank you.

    Armor:
    - AllPro front plate bumper (first generation). I choose AP because, again... I've seen them in person and I like the design. They're about half the weight of the ARB's... and they hold their own. They're beef, and they'll take enough abuse at REASONABLE trail speeds. Yes, they'll damage at high speed or seriously hardcore rock bashing... but I'm not going to be doing such things with my truck. Also I've seen images from a head on collision with a mustang on this site... they give. This is good from a safety aspect. Also note, this bumper will accept a winch (designed for certain WARN setups)
    - Allpro under skids (IFS skid, transmission skid, transfercase/exhaust skid). Again, same reasons as the front bumper. I've bashed the IFS skid on stock suspension height at 15mph down hard on rocks, even faster than that. Yea, it bent a tiny bit here and there. But hell, we just took it off to do the suspension install... and got it back on. Nothing but rep on that skid for my use.

    Performance stuff:
    - TRD Catback. Honestly I just like it, no point in expo. What you'd really want to do is dump the exhaust above the axle to prevent it from being damaged.
    - AFE Pro dry drop in filter. Rinse and reuse, better air flow... long run it's cheaper. Stock airbox is already a cold air intake.
    - Rear diff breather relocation mod. Moved the rear diff breather to the gas cap area to prevent rapid cooling from blowing the stock breather and sucking in water in a crossing. This way, it pulls fresh air as long as the breather is above water :D Note, your transmission and transfer case will be LOWER than this mod... plus you must stay under the intake anyway. If you do a snorkle for deeper crossings, relocate ALL breathers to the interior of the snorkle (and seal them well).


    Things I will be installing:
    - All Pro rear bumper. Again, their stuff has treated me well and I'll go back to that company again and again when it goes right. It gives high clearance in the rear so you don't drag the stock paper thin bumper and damage it. If you hit down hard (with expo gear you'll be sagging a bit and hitting hard), I've seen it bust tail lights. A stronger bumper like the AllPro or Relentless or such... will be much less likely to do this. Cons, you'll need a new hitch (there is a hidden behind plate option from AllPro, Rentless has an option for welded just below) as the bumper mounts to the stock hitch locations. This makes it a lot stronger, but... you lose the factory hitch.
    - weld on Sliders (this would be first on the list... honestly it should be). Protects your door panels if you slam down on a rock or brush against a tree. I'll probably be getting them from Avid Off-Road in AZ, with DOM tube steel (stronger than HREW) and kick outs for the rear (pushes the rear if you're riding the slider along a tree or rock to prevent rear quarterpanel damage). Also serves as a solid, great hi-lift jack point. Weld on for additional strength, I just don't trust bolt on.
    - Winch (undecided brand/model). They're the ultimate recovery tool. Don't think much else needs to be said other than, get a full winch kit with tree savers and other tools too.
    - Onboard air. This is required for ARB lockers because they are air actuated solenoids. I'm not running ARB, but I want them to be able to air my tires back up from trails without having to put additional wear at dangerously low PSI for highway travel. It can also be useful to use with some air tools if you bring some along.
    - KC lights. 2 candles, 2 fogs with 55w HID's. Additional front lighting at night... not much more to say. Why I chose this setup in particular? I got a hell of a deal from a friend lol.
    - Some kind of tent/setup. I'm not sure where I want to go with it... but since any expo type run will be rare for me, I'll probably just do a truck bed tent. It's a little bit of a pain to setup but it's nicer to be in the truck bed than finding/raking a good spot, worrying someone will jack the truck while you're sleeping if in a camp ground or such (or in AZ the illegals). However it may interfere if I do a second spare tire and probably won't work so... I'm on the fence because if I do a bed rack or something... yea. Ideally I'd like a ARB roof tent but I just can't justify the cash.
    - "rock lights". Going to be putting these LED white strips (from autozone) that are bright, low power, easily affixed anywhere, and weatherproof to provide extra night time lighting under and around the bottom of the truck to allow a spotter (or even myself) to see what's going on under the truck. I'm also going to be using this same material to go under the hood to light up the engine bay.


    Recovery/gear: (a lot of this I don't have yet but... working on it).
    - Tow strap for recovery
    - Shackles (I have 3 right now with a rear shackle reciever from harbor freight, cheap and works great but will be useless with the new rear bumper)
    - Winch eventually (already mentioned)
    - Hi-lift. I picked up the farm jack at harbor freight. You can interchange most or all parts with the actual hi-lift one and save some coin. I'll also be figuring out how I want to mount it.
    - Small shovel (to dig out tires in sand or add dirt for traction ect)
    - Axe (wood for camping or clearing a path if I'm desperate, or a self defense option)
    - Gerber utility tool. Always need something like that lol.
    - Tool box with proper tools. I'm working on a list... but the basics at the minimum for short runs. metric sockets, allens, torqx, screw drivers, ect)
    - First aid
    - Paper towels (for anything emergency toilet paper to well, anything)
    - duct tape
    - JB weld
    - tire repair kit
    - aftermarket collapsable tire iron in + shape. The stock one is near eff'n impossible to use... plus with my 3/4" lugs on the procomps I need something different.
    - Morimoto projectors for the headlights (additional lighting is always good in my book) I'll also be doing HID fogs as well.
    - Fire extinguisher. Yea, it's needed. Make sure it's rated for vehicles (ABC is fine). I'll be getting a larger one to mount in the bed eventually, right now mine is behind the driver's side rear seat.


    Anyway, this is a list of what I have/planning thus far. I still have a lot of stuff to acquire in this list alone... it all adds up quick in $ lol. The key thing is... figure out what kind of trips you want to do. What kind of trails do you anticipate you'll be doing? Go on some runs with local guys and get a feel for what the truck is capable of after you get it (protect it first with armor and such though). Get a feel for that first, then figure out how "hardcore" you need to go with it. OME suspension will probably do you fine without coilovers... but if you find you want to run faster and such.. you might wanna go with Fox or such... just got to find out what works for you. Equipment wise... well ya you need to balance what's critical for your terrain, what you need to bring with for your family and your packing space and such. I'd start with a few basic camping trips just find holes in the basics of things you might forget and work up.

    If you plan to need the winch a bit, or if you wanna run the stereo at night or lights and such but don't want to burn a ton of fuel, you might want to run dual batteries. Things like this are just, tailored to your needs.


    Not sure if you find any of this useful... but they're just my thoughts from my on-going build. Again I'm not really going for "true expo" but I get stuff for function first.

    Here's a few recent pics of my truck just for ref.

    DSC_0025_af6fc213bab4f376ed353e338c458894d324c07a.jpg

    DSC_0027_636428beb33afc395d80702a2102113a541ebdca.jpg

    DSC_0029_ad67e30129a6aad1c8a584286919d9bfd460afee.jpg

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Here you get a better idea of why UCA's are needed...
    DSC_0021_027ba4a158e8c9cb47bd2ad3d67cc0e132fe9ea8.jpg

    So, like I said long way to go... but I'm starting with the core stuff first that increase the trucks off-road ability first (as that's my #1 purpose, expo #2).


    Also a quick video for what ATRAC is about. It's not really a front locker, but it can help a lot.

    Without:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DvvjIXNzg0Q

    With (my truck before latest suspension stuff, stock crappy tires, and lower than stock clearance from bumper weight lol):
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6XSex-mCl3I&feature=related
     
  3. Apr 21, 2011 at 11:39 PM
    #63
    rsbmg

    rsbmg Well-Known Member

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    Nice truck, I'm looking at the same tire/wheel combo any rubbing issues?
     
  4. Apr 21, 2011 at 11:43 PM
    #64
    Kyouto42

    Kyouto42 Iron Beard

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    Thanks man. And yea, quite a bit right now. As soon as I get the spanner wrenches I'm going to crank up the front as it's too low (fox didn't include them.. figured they would). I had the body mount chop done, but I might need to shave a bit off near the mount point at the bottom, but I think with it cranked up 1-1.5" or so it should clear fine. It's only barely rubbing enough under near full compression to scrape some paint off. As for the plastics in the rear of the wheel well... yea that's an on going battle to get right I just keep taking some shears to them every time I hear it hit lol. Once it's cranked up, I should be golden though.

    Edit: here's the chop... This is driver's side. From this perspective, it's near the closest to you edge on the left where it's barely touching. Passenger side hasn't hit it at all... so I figure it's mostly the "taco lean" causing the hit from the suspension in the front sitting lower than it should.

    [​IMG]
     
  5. Apr 21, 2011 at 11:47 PM
    #65
    tacomarotto

    tacomarotto "Change is inevitable, but growth is optional."

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  6. Apr 21, 2011 at 11:49 PM
    #66
    rsbmg

    rsbmg Well-Known Member

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    Offroad warehouse is steering me toward an identical suspension set-up as you although I was initially going with what lrgrnr has basically its just a matter of icons vs. fox and of course king is in there as well. I dont think you can say much negative about either set-up its just a matter of deciding.

    But first I need to decide on tires. I was all set on the 255/85 R16's since I have heard so much good things about them but after considering terrain, being in socal I think the 285/75 R 16's will give me a bit better performance in the sand and on the rocks. decsions decsions.......
     
  7. Apr 21, 2011 at 11:55 PM
    #67
    Kyouto42

    Kyouto42 Iron Beard

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    The 285's are pretty common in AZ and seem to do well in the Sonoran terrain. I dunno you saw my choice haha. Plus I like the beefier look and being wider is a bit more stable on the highway (which I do have a lot of that too). In the snow and such, narrower is better but, again.... desert terrain doesn't really matter much to me. And like you said, it's better in the sand and for max bite in crawling type situations.

    As for Icon vs Fox vs King... the core design of coilover suspension is virtually identical. They can all have valving changed out, all work on the same engineering principles, ect. Honestly whatever $ the least will work just as well, or if you have a color preference lol. Kings are great and proven, but I don't see any real advantage for any $ over a set of Fox or Icon.
     
  8. Apr 22, 2011 at 12:02 AM
    #68
    rsbmg

    rsbmg Well-Known Member

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    The big difference is icons are digressive shocks while the fox's are progressive shocks so the fox's will be a little softer at slow speeds while the icons will be a little stiffer at slow speeds but a bit more plush at higher speeds. Ultimatley its probably not a huge difference but I have never driven in a vehicle with either so I certainly may be wrong.
     
  9. Apr 22, 2011 at 10:06 AM
    #69
    rsbmg

    rsbmg Well-Known Member

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    I heard the icons are now rebuildable is that the case or bad info?
     
  10. Apr 22, 2011 at 10:20 AM
    #70
    sierrahsky

    sierrahsky Expedition Style

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    There is a big diff in how the 285's will perform over the 255. The main benefit of the 255 is going to be in snow and sand. The 285 is going to be less lofty @ the same psi's so unless your running a beadlock the 255 will give more loft.
     
  11. Apr 22, 2011 at 10:28 AM
    #71
    Kyouto42

    Kyouto42 Iron Beard

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    That's because people don't RTFM and throw a quick coat of wax on them, they're zinc afterall.
     
  12. Apr 22, 2011 at 4:05 PM
    #72
    anethema

    anethema Well-Known Member

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    Ya I love my icons. Not RR but still nice.

    Truck even with the lift handles like a sports car on the road haha. Digressive shocks are nice, resistant to body roll in corners, but will soak up washboard at 60mph no problem.

    Not a rock crawling shock really, but great for what I do.

    My rear has 5-6 leafs from the PO, rearched to match the front, but its a bit too stiff for me. It also has airbags so I'd rather just have less leafs and stiffen it as needed with the bags.

    I'll prob just leave it as is though since the stiffness makes it hands sweeping high(ish) G turns on highways great. Much better than my old plush 5 lugger.
     
  13. Apr 22, 2011 at 4:15 PM
    #73
    kinetik873

    kinetik873 Well-Known Member

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    4. IMHO too many people take a truck, a sleeping bag, and a few items, head out in to the woods 3 times a year or hit up a campground a few times a year and call that an expedition. Keep in mind expeditions are not just simple little trips, that is called overlanding. Overlanding is much more forgiving and can be done with little skill, gear, and money. I would suggest working in to expeditions before jumping in. You will want to test gear, design flaws, reveal weakness in your kit, and test your self. Find what you like and gravitate towards it. If it works for you great, if not fix it asap.



    That is well said.
     
  14. Apr 22, 2011 at 5:29 PM
    #74
    rsbmg

    rsbmg Well-Known Member

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    I will be doing mixed terrain but primarily desert sand and rocky trails little snow/mud. I have read the write ups on the 255's and that is what I initially decided on but since I do like to drive fast on and offroad in addition to the camping stuff and given my requirement for soft sand as well as rocks and off camber trail crawling, I just think the 285's will perform better.

    I have typically run 33x12.5's on my jeeps and aired down to 12 psi with no problems and no beadlocks as have most of my friends.

    The problem with building a vehicle is there are many ways to skin a cat and if someone has success running a low profile racing slick in the mud then all of a sudden that becomes the new way to do it even though 100's of others will fail using a similar combination. Just so many variables to consider.
     
  15. Apr 22, 2011 at 10:10 PM
    #75
    anethema

    anethema Well-Known Member

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    That is interesting. Since the 255 is thinner, you'd think the 255 would float a bit less on sand and snow rather than more, even though ya I guess it does have a higher sidewall/more aspect ratio than the 285.

    Know of a good link describing why or examples of the 255 being better on sand/snow?

    Love to read more (I have the 255's)
     
  16. Apr 23, 2011 at 6:56 AM
    #76
    rsbmg

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  17. Apr 23, 2011 at 10:25 AM
    #77
    Kyouto42

    Kyouto42 Iron Beard

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    It's a good article but I don't fully agree with everything there. For one...

    This isn't correct in all applications, as drag uses wider tires for increased bite at launch.


    Still he's put way more thought into all of this than probably any of us ever have/will lol. I'll stick with my wider tires though as one, I do more higher speed runs in the desert, and two... a lot of highway driving :D
     
  18. Apr 24, 2011 at 9:16 AM
    #78
    zerocool120

    zerocool120 [OP] Active Member

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    All,
    Great rolling commentary. Keep it up. On another note...I have new concerns regarding cab room for the kids. I know, I know...I should have looked at this a lot earlier, but we just figured they would fit without issues. Now, with both a car seat and a booster seat, we see that the leg room for them is very limited. Before any moves to outfit this truck for overlanding, we must first really decide if it will work for us at all. Maybe an FJ would be better room wise? Anyway, we are going to go down to the dealer and actually put everyone into the truck to find out. Wish me luck!
     
  19. Apr 24, 2011 at 10:27 AM
    #79
    Kyouto42

    Kyouto42 Iron Beard

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    FJ's have a lot less interior room than a doublecab. Honestly unless you're like 6' + you should be fine. I have 5 adults run in my truck (not small people mind you) when we run to lunch. I can comfortably fit 4 adults under 6' in my truck for extended trips.
     
  20. Apr 25, 2011 at 4:13 PM
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    rsbmg

    rsbmg Well-Known Member

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    Vista,CA
    Vehicle:
    2011 Tacoma Doublecab TRD Offroad
    Front Aluminum bumper by Relentless Fab. Smittybuilt Winch Complete set of skids by ATO TC UCA's Fox Ext. Travel Front Reservoirs.
    I agree the fj is extremely limited on room. go with a tacoma double cab or bump up to a land cruiser.
     

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