How to change crank position sensor?

Koditten. Exactly. But I guess it was worth a shot. Lesson learned

 

To replace the CKP, and it sounds like you've already done a remove and reassemble on it, you do not need to remove the wheel or the mudflap thing in the wheel well. With a 1/4" drive and 10mm deep well socket, you can get to this from underneath the engine. Toughest part is pulling the black rubber shield around the connector back then getting the electrical connector disconnected. Then it is simply removing one 10mm hex head bolt and pulling out the sensor. I suppose if you were stuck having to do this on a hot engine with the cat sitting right there, it could be hazardous, but I changed mine the way I described. However, this did not result in a fix for my '16.

 

I don't think they will do the work for free, unless this is a good will gesture.

Nobody doubts that the CPS is the issue. The only thing that bothers me is the dealer tech did not tell you the codes would be erased. I think it was just an over sight because everyone is rushed during the holidays. I think they honestly wanted to get you on the road.

 

I don't want to rain on anyone's parade here, and I concur that your experience strongly suggests symptoms associated with a bad CKP. But, we have not accumulated a wealth of experience on this forum regarding what codes were triggered in a true failure of the CKP. There have been a plethora of codes listed, but as of yet, I have not seen the actual code for failure of the CKP itself. In my circumstance, my symptoms were exactly that of running out of gas, though I knew I hadn't w half a tank. After a while, it would start and run normally. I had codes for low pressure at fuel rail, lean condition on banks one and two, and random cylinder misfire. I replaced my CKP, and experienced the same failure symptoms and codes on the very next drive on the same route as before, and at the same physical location, and this time had a code for fuel rail sensor in addition to the other codes. My truck and I have now fallen down the rabbit hole with this, and it has been at the dealership. They are having difficulties effecting a repair on this since the 8th of December, and thus far have replaced the fuel rail w sensor--it failed on them when taken on a road test so they're still working on it. I suspect a failure of the high pressure fuel pump as I noted this got too hot to touch and feel since fuel flows thru it, that should keep it cool. Apparently they do not share my concerns here and I have been unable to collect a wide range of temperatures of HTFP from forum members: Only 2 have responded with this information.

This thread is about you and your problem, I am not interested in stealing your thread. Those who wish to comment on this should seek out my thread on this forum. What I am hoping to impress on you is that it may not be as simple as the CKP. You may also end up down the rabbit hole. I would not insist on anything at this point but have them drive it around. The service manager can drive it back and forth home to work etc and it should demonstrate a failure for him or the tech. THEN they can tow it into the shop, pull codes, and then work on fixing it. In the meantime, be patient and enjoy your loaner vehicle and allow them to figure it out.

 

definitely clears MOST codes when you disconnect the battery terminal UNLESS it's emissions related, in my experience. I bought a locking gas cap - unnecessary given the anti-siphon characteristics, BUT I figured it was cheap, said it wouldn't cause CELs and would prevent someone from tampering w/ my tank at the least. Well, worked ok for a couple of days then I let my truck sit for 24 hours and when I got in it I had a CEL for EVAP system. Changed back to the stock gas cap, and while the CEL was off, I still read 2 PERMANENT codes that would not be cleared by a scanner. In those cases, I can only assume to prevent folks from cheating emissions, I literally had to have like 100 warm-ups or something before that permanent code finally fell off.

Even if the codes weren't showing, did you ever try to use an OBD2 device / reader (like an OBD Fusion or Torque apps) to see historical codes. Those don't always get cleared entirely and I don't even think all of the freeze frame data that gets captured with a code gets erased with a battery disconnect but I could be wrong. Battery disconnect clears short-term memory but anything stored in long-term memory stays...

In any case, OP I hope you get it situated and I definitely would replace that sensor as a precaution regardless of what the dealer says.

 

OPIHI59. I appreciate you commenting on here. I do appreciate you sharing your experience. I am praying that is the only issue I have is that sensor but yes it could be a plethora of other things. God only knows. They are going thru the fuel system as we speak front to back top to bottom. They can not get the truck to repeat what it did to me. They have now put 25 miles on it to try and get it to do it. I want that part replaced to be on the safe side. That way at least if it does the same thing again we have already emilinated one possibility of it. Since it did chug off and die. Toyota said that they def have to check anything w the fuel first. So with that being eliminated and a new sensor put in then I feel a little better about driving it. This weekend it is to be negative 3 degrees and I drive 35 min one way to work. So. I do not want to be stranded in deathly scary weather. I hope people reply to your question on here so I can also read about it. I want to know all I can about my tacoma. I love it. But this super sucks

 

Just for clarity, Toyota does not call this crank position sensor a CPS. In Toyotaspeak, this is called a CKP. Go figure.


This is a photo of 2 of the "new" version CKP. On the right, the version with the round circle/hashmark thing is the upgraded version from the original part that was recalled which was part number -05089 When they recalled the 32K early production 2016 Tacomas, they replaced the original/suspect CKP with the circle/hashmark version. Since then there is another production run shown on the left in the photo which has the 2 parallel lines that look like an equals sign on it.

 

This helps me a lot. Thank you. I was kinda an asshole and not a very trusting person of shops. So I sorta “marked” the sensor that is the one in my truck when it died. Then I will at least be able to verify that it got replaced . Any thing else you can help me know I really honestly appreciate it. What does the old part have on it? Any markings?

 

good call. Yeah I still dont trust "stealership" maintenance. Hope it gets fixed

 

Sorry about your weather. It doesn't get quite that frosty here in the Sandwich Isles, but nobody wants to get stranded under any circumstances. So they've put 25 miles on it. Driving it around the block, up and down the street? It may take a single, longer trip than that, say 15 miles or so. What were your driving circumstances when it first occurred? Think about where you started out, how fast and far you had driven, etc and then suggest they do the same. It is unlikely to fail just idling in the work bay. Have them reproduce your circumstances. It happened to me twice, both times I had started from my house, cold engine, and drove on the freeway at about 60 for 11 miles. Both times it failed, it failed under these same conditions and within 100 yards of the first failure. The only difference in circumstances was that I had replaced my CKP for the second trip. Otherwise I had driven it around shorter distances, lower speeds, stop and go stuff and it had done absolutely fine. My suspicion is a failure in the HPFP which feeds the direct injectors of the Atkinson cycle. This aspect of our engines comes into effect at low load sort of conditions, such as stable speeds, freeway etc. It is not generally something that occurs at low speeds, but kicks in at low load conditions. TW please feel free to comment on this if you are knowledgeable on the Atkinson cycle. So, that, and the fact my HPFP felt too hot to touch for more than a brief instant, suggests to me that it boiled the fuel within it and resulted in the modern equivalent of a vapor lock. My theory is that the fuel flowing thru it should cool it, and in my circumstance it is not. Toyota though, tells me "they are supposed to get hot, this is normal" but no one has the temerity to give me a number, or temperature range.
The HPFP, for those curious, is the round silver thing on top of the rear of the passenger side valve cover. It is driven off the cam, and generates pressures of like 2500 PSI (not a typo) to feed the 6 direct injectors. We also have 6 "normal" injectors that operate off the tank fuel pump as we are all accustomed to in our other "normal" Otto cycle engines.

 

I will check the temp on the HPFP on my truck at some point but its been below 20 degrees out and is forecasted to stay that way for the near future. I think the fact that it sits on top of the engine it is automatically going to see some higher temps and then it is also bound to generate some heat since it is pressurized fuel.

 

In the early production run of the first year of the Gen3 Tacomas (2016) the CKP that resulted in recall of like 32K of these trucks had no identifying mark on the base. In my photo above you see the identifying marks associated with the upgraded CKPs, both with the new part number.

Dealing w the Dealership on the maintenance and repair side of the house is generally as much fun as going to the DMV, or the new/modern equivalent of this--the airlines. Of course you would be annoyed, frustrated, and suspicious as this is a NEW TRUCK, you bought a new truck since you didn't want to run the risk of having a older vehicle or used vehicle to die and strand you. Why should this happen to a brand new, expensive truck with few miles on it????
So--we tend to get a bit wounded, and hot under the collar, accusative, and don't show them our best behavior when we get stiff-armed in the service line. Realize that you do have a warranty, ask them to reproduce your problem by a bona fide road test, or keep it and drive it around like it's theirs for a few days until it craps out on them. It won't do it "on cue" generally. Get a loaner too. That helps out since the loaner costs them, and once you have it, it is added incentive for them to fix your truck and get it back to you. You catch more flies with honey than with vinegar. Well, you catch flies w S**t too, but let's not go there for now.

 

I was driving after work. Middle of night after being in the cold Simply 8 min driving 35-40 mph on my way home on a thru street it was maybe 35 or 40 degrees out. Choked. Choked. Poof dead not even time to pull over hardly once sitting for 15 ish minutes. It started back up(roughly) had the police follow me rest of way home. Parked in garage for the night.(heated garage) Next day started right up and three blocks down the street doing 15 mpg in 40 or so degree weather chug chug tried to push gas again no power then it just died. Checked oil right then and there and none but a smidge register on the dipstick waited 20 min. Finally started roughly again. Took it back home. Bought oil just in case went to go put some in and the oil then after sitting said it was fine. My oil temp warning light went off. My low coolant warning light went off and the traction control light showed. “On” and wouldn’t shut off. And of course service engine soon light. I don’t know ‍♀️ I do body work and paint cars and trucks. I don’t know shit about the electronics in them

 

To a certain extent, I agree with you. It's on the engine. The engine gets hot. Everything on the engine gets hot. But feel the pump, then feel your valve covers. Take an IR gun and shoot a temperature on it. (tell us the results, after an adequate drive of course). Fluid flows thru that pump, especially now for you mainlanders, it's cold out and the fuel would be colder too, but the fluid flowing thru the pump should keep it cool, since once it gets compressed and develops the heat resultant from that pressurization, it then flows onward into the cylinders and is continuously replaced by new, cooler fluid. We all know that hot fluids boil/vaporize. Volatile fluids such as gasoline boil at lower temperature than say, water. Anyway, boiling gas creates a vapor and that doesn't pump well.
It's just my theory, that's all. I promise I'm not trying to sound like a twit. If it turns out my pump is fine and Toyota fixes my truck, I'll tell everyone I was wrong. No pride here, we just all want our trucks running.

I would be taking a temperature on mine and reporting, but like OP, my Tacoma is tits-up at the Dealership. When mine failed and I felt how hot the pump was, I was on the side of the road and didn't have any temperature reading devices other than my fingertips.

 

I am a little hot but I’ve been trying to stay civil I know it’s not their fault. My issue is. I have a lot of things on that truck and with the history of dealerships in Nebraska (not this one yet to my knowledge) of getting into accidents in customers cars scares the fuck out of me. My truck is basically my child and I hate other people driving it expecially if it happens on open road dies. Someone doesn’t see them and runs right into it. I also don’t want it “towed” am I the only one that has an issue with being actually “towed” I am ok w flatbed. But if they are doing a road test and it dies I’m sure they won’t get a flatbed to take it back to the shop. I guess I am just over protective of it

 

Under the circumstances you describe, it seems it should not be that difficult for them to be able to replicate the failure. Tell them to drive it around under similar circumstances, as close to yours as you can. Maybe even offer to do the driving, but with one of them in the truck with you. Or you be the passenger, and let them do it.
They replaced my fuel rail and fuel rail sensor, put it all back together and did a road test, and at about 8 miles when they had already spiked the ball in the endzone and done their little victory dance and turned around to head back to the shop, it died on them just like it had died on me. Sad part is this was 11 days ago, they're still scratching their heads and consulting Toyota Tech Support, and me and my truck are down the rabbit hole.

 

I understand your sentiment. People don't tend to respect others' property, but it's unlikely they're going to go drifting in it. They have a vested interest in fixing your truck and moving on to their next concern, just like you when you're doing body work or painting someones' car. However, it is not flesh and blood, even though we want to consider it this way. It just isn't flesh and blood. Once you accumulate a lifetime of really feculent experiences, this one will seem a bit pale. I could tell you stories............ but I won't. Been there, done that, used the T-shirt as a field-expedient battle dressing.

 

I think if you clear the codes with an OBD or batt. disconnect the light goes out but codes are still stored in the ECU in case they need to relook at them in a future instance like the OPs.

 

OP--on your next interaction with the Toyota Dealership Service Department, ask them if they will tell you what codes they managed to pull off your Truck. Write them all down and we'll tell you what they represent.

 

stay cool, you always get more with sugar than u will with salt, especially dealing with the Dealerships, you may need their help in the future.