How to change the rack and pinion steering -2nd gen V6

Learning something everyday. I will be revisiting this thread soon.

 

Today's driveway project...

Rack And Pinion #4

New OEM Rack And Pinions are currently unavailable anywhere to be found for the 2nd Gen Tacomas. Next best thing is a Factory Remanufactured Unit, and those are hard to find..


Also replacing Upper Control Arm Bushings and Outer Heim Joints..

Total Chaos Fab Upper Control Arm Bushings will fit the AllPro Off-Road Upper Control Arm Bushings.

 

What kind of life are people getting out of the stock racks? I’ve got 90k on my 2015 and a ton of play in the bushings. This seems like a huge PITA so I don’t want to have to do it twice. New/reman rack for a few hundred or replace the bushings for $80? No leaks on the current unit as far as I can tell.

 

Does a 2.7 thread exist for this job? I got the bushing link, but I need some advice on brand/part number that works well. I’m currently looking at Cardone? Any help be greatly appreciated

 

Same frame and same rack

 

How important is doing the bushings? I don’t 4 wheel, just daily

 

Then why worry about it? Unless your bushings are shot and the rack shifts around…

 

I ordered a new cardone rack, and wasn’t sure whether I wanted to do the polyurethane bushings in it. It’s going on a truck with 237k but it will also have a new engine. Just am not doing well with money atm

 

The cardones are reman racks that should come with new bushings already. I’d leave it alone if I were you

 

Did you check to see if nee OEM 3rd gen steering racks are available? They should bolt right up and work the same. I say this because I know that both 2nd & 3rd genners bolt the same modded Tundra racks into their trucks.

 

Anyone got a quick run down on the tools needed?

 

Follow link on page one of this thread. Post #2

 

I’m blind, Ty taco bro!

 

Just replaced my Dad's steering rack with a reman and new tie rod ends at 260k+ miles. I had to source some nuts for the outer ends to tighten to from a local hardware store, but other than that it definitely takes some time. If I did it again, I would just cut the driver's side bolt and buy a new one, saves quite a bit of time and headache.

 

Sub’d

95k on my 2015 and noticed some creaking/groaning while turning at slow speeds. Checked my PS reservoir and it was low and then saw the telltale fluid on the bottom of my driverside boot.

What’s up with the Tundra modded rack???

 

I need help. I just replaced my steering rack with a new OEM unit. At the alignment shop they show me that the rack is shifting side-to-side by about 1/4"-1/2" when the steering wheel is turned (but the mounting bolts are torqued tight!). They were able to get the alignment completed, but the steering wheel shifts when driving (sometimes it's straight while driving straight; sometimes it's turned 30* while driving straight). What's going on?! My original rack didn't do this. Does the new rack not have steel bushing inserts? I didn't even bother to compare the bushings between the old and new racks before installing, but looking at the old rack I now notice that it has steel inserts. It's almost like the new rack's bushings are nothing but rubber and no steel washers or inserts. Did Toyota change the design of these bushings over time? Will new aftermarket poly bushing solve this? I'm really dreading pulling the rack again - it was an absolute bear of a job lying on my garage floor.

 

It’ll go faster the second time. Unfortunately that’s what you’ll probably need to do. I would use white line bushings and ream the sleeves and frame to accept a grade 8 1/2” bolt with proper shank. The OEM hardware is sort of necked down at the shank for whatever reason. Still, that much side to side movement sounds excessive. Maybe you forgot to put the sleeves in? Something is up for sure. I believe OEM comes with rubber bonded sleeves, maybe you got a bad part. Idk. Disassemble and check.

 

Thank you for responding! There wasn’t anything else included w/ the rack, so I assumed nothing needed to be added. Also, there are no separate sleeves shown in the parts diagram. I’ve since tried to tap out the old rack’s sleeves (if it in fact has sleeves), but quickly realized they’re bonded.

I ordered the Whiteline bushings and will try to tackle this next weekend. I truly hope that solves the issue.

 

Let us know what you find upon disassembly. Also, here is a slightly more detailed explanation. It is very good you got the white line bushings and not that energy crap but some modification is still in order to get it really good IMHO.

 

Well, crap. I started this last night and just kind of jumped in without fully doing my homework. I should have known better than to do that on something newer than a 1G, but can't go back now.

Read in passing about cutting the bolt so I was ready for that, but I did not center or secure the steering wheel before I started. I think it was in a full(ish) left lock judging by the rack's current position, but I can't say that with 100% confidence, nor that the wheel hadn't been disturbed during the wrestling match trying to finagle it out (I lost round 1, still sitting there after getting sidetracked with "looks like this would be easier with the CV out" and finding that SOB does not want to budge).

So what I am facing is potentially damaging the clock spring, and/or needing to run the VSC relearn process (presumably via Techstream). Is my worst case scenario here both of these, or is there potentially more to it?

Assuming I can't pull the wheel and "reset" the clock spring somehow - my plan moving forward, unless anyone has a better idea of course, is to assume it is still roughly in the full left lock position, and center the wheel after +/- 1.75 turns to the right; and cross my fingers, eyes, and lower case t's.

Thanks for any input..