How to check/adjust valve clearance on 3.4L 5VZ-FE?

There is no need to remove cams or the TB on the 3.4. The procedure in the FSM is accurate. The factory type tools seem to work much better on the 3.4 than the 2.7. Improvised tools can still be used with care. It helps if you understand just how strong a valve spring is and how easy it is to damage/scratch/chip the machined cam lobes.
It's really pretty straight forward, just tedious and I believe @Timmah! was going to produce a vid.

You want a micrometer not a caliper. A caliper is fine for measuring new replacement shims but they have the size printed on them already. A caliper will not have the accuracy to measure factory installed shims. The factory shims came in much (finer) increments than service replacements and may have slight wear.

Below are all the special and semi special stuff I use on 3.4's beyond what is needed to get both valve covers off and a means of turning the crank/cams (socket on crank pulley bolt). Seems like I posted this not long ago.
Note the air nozzle and the magnet on a stick. Many folks struggle with extracting the shims due to "suction" from being surrounded in oil. With the cam in the measuring position for any given valve the bucket can be rotated so the little slot is accessible. This slot is where most try to pry the shim out with a pic or small screwdriver (FSM). To hasten the job along, pry or pick with a blast of compressed air in the slot. This will break the suction and a "magnet on a stick" will get er the rest of the way in a jiffy.
Also of note, OE replacement shims seem to be much better than 4-5 years ago and measure spot on.

 

Right. No removal necessary to check, removal necessary to adjust. That was my point earlier, it can be confusing on a single cylinder if you dont know what you're doing, it can be dangerous on a multi cylinder engine. While doing valve cover gaskets would be the best time to do it though.

 

This will be an interesting. Unfortunately all is done with my engine and I don't feel like taking the valve cover off

 

If I can figure out how to check it easily while I'm doing VC gaskets, I likely won't have to do anything. Lots of reassuring posts regarding 300k+ 5VZs with no valve adjustment EDIT: Guess I missed some posts while web surfing. Thanks @Dirty Pool once again for your excellent and informative posts. Someone should make a Dirty Pool wiki page so we can compile all of your posts into one sticky

I will have to check the FSM later to see how to check the valves. I'm assuming that those flat feeler gauges will be what I need?

 

Thats a plus.

edit: not sqirmish, just got sick and tired of bolts snapping on me on this truck.

 

Not necessary to "remove" at all. All the "removal" BS is from folks struggling with the factory type tools to the point that removing seems easier to them.
Again the procedure in the FSM is accurate.

While it is definitely true that the 3.4 is easier on valves compared to the 2.7, every 3.4 I have opened up at around 200k has had at least 2 exhaust valves on the tight side, not bad but enough that OCD says correct it. Would they be OK for the rest of the engines life? Maybe, maybe not. Also remember that in 03 the 3.4 got upgraded "more durable" valve seats.

This is a tough call for a DD that can't have down time waiting for "ordered" shims to arrive.

 

Right on. Shims are on top of the buckets on that eh? I've been doing motorcycles too long.

 

Will I need those flat feeler gauges in the bottom corner of your pic @Dirty Pool? Do I wedge between the shim and the cam lobe? All the things I'm finding online are for motorcycles and how much "drag" is necessary

http://www.motorcycleanchor.com/motorcycle/how_to/mc_valve_adj.html

Is this a good how-to? Measure with a feeler the clearance at the 3 low (round) spots on the cam lobe?
https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-inspect-valve-clearance-adjustment-by-robert-kulp

Also, how to you manually turn the engine when off to reposition the cam lobes? Sorry for the noob questions

 

Thank you very much for all this info and tips. This will come in very handy when I perform and film this job on my 98 4runner.

 

omg, video inbound!!!!

 

Good job doing your homework.
You will need gauges with enough length to physically hold on to and still reach between the cam and the shim. The typical spark plug gauges are usually too short. Straight or angle blades is kind of a matter of personal taste here. The FSM gives several cam positions and which valves can be checked in each. The FSM really has everything covered, just seems a little daunting for a first timer.

I like the first link. There is a bit of "feel" going on. Mostly common sense, easy to over think.
Just keep in mind what is going on, your trying to "fill the gap" with the gauge not "wedge" or force it. Sometimes a better "feel" can be had by removing the individual blades from the holder. And leave things as found, wet with a little oil as opposed to clean and dry.

Position the cams? Turn the crank via the crank pulley bolt, the cams will have no choice but to obediently follow along.

 

And just for giggles here is the relative accuracy between a caliper and micrometer. These fellows are moderately high end tools. A $25 or so Chinese mic with good reviews from HF should do the trick, avoid the digital read out mic's.

 

So is there a good valve spring compressor tool to not scratch up my cams on my 5VZ? Did the TB a couple months ago and don’t feel like removing the cams and belt. Thanks