How to: Chevy 63" Leaf Spring Swap

Subbed, got me thinkin...

Great info man, thanks for sharing!

 

Is there significant advantage to doing the Chevy springs vs just doing a shackle flip on the Toyota springs, be they dakars, all pros or whatev?

IIRC I've seen guys running oem length springs with a shackle flip (ato?) and 12" shocks in factory location.

Regarding shock location, any advantage to moving the mounts on the axle tube? For example, move them 2" up, gain a bit more ground clearance and use a 10" shock instead of 12"?

 

Probably the main advantage is with the 63"'s you'll get more travel from the longer spring...

 

So glad I found this write up. It's awesome. Great job. I picked up the ruff stuff kit today and will slowly piece together all the parts I need.

 

But with the Chevy springs, shock relocation is a must to take advantage of all the travel potential, right? And even more travel is possible if you extend shock mounting into the bed area? Like shock hoops or something?

 

I don't think shock relocation is a requirement but moving the hangers certainly is


EDIT: You'd get full benefit relocating shocks yes

 

Also when you need new springs it will be super cheap compared to after market

 

Yes because dakars/all pros are designed to be bolted in and work with the stock inverted shackle. I probably won't do this explanation as much justice as @jberry813 but here goes. Imagine drawing a line between the eyelets on your leaf springs. When you flex your leaf springs will go up and be even with that straight line. That's good. Now flip your shackle and draw a line between them. Now when you flex you will bend past that straight line going negative arch. All pro and dakar leafs are a pretty arched spring (compared to chevy 63s and stock leafs). Going negative arch a lot will kill them quite fast. They're an expensive leaf spring to replace too.

A 12" shock in a stock location is beyond retarded. You will have no uptravel whatsoever.

Yes moving up lower mounts 2" is beneficial for clearance, but you must then make up for how much you move up with the upper mount.

Thanks man

Yes it is. Like I said this is a good deal of work and it's not worth it all to have factory shock travel.

Yes, more travel is possible by going thru the bed. That is my future plans. I've mentioned before I'm not happy with my 12" shocks. I have to use limit straps to prevent overextension and since I mounted my lower shock mounts even with the axle my uptravel is severely limited. The BAMF kit doesn't go high enough to bump in the factory location when you mount the lowers even with the axle.

 

great write up. eventually want to do this so making this comment in order to have it for reference and thank you for writing it and giving the links for extra parts. also what did you use to paint and get rust off?

 

also do you think icon shocks would work?

 

Whatever shock your heart desires will work with the proper dimensions.

 

But I'm not sure if they would be long enough

 

They'll be whatever length that you request them to built/order at.

If you're asking that the standard Tacoma icon shocks will work, they'll be way too short.

 

Ok so I'd have to specifically ask them to be 12"

 

Also reservoir beneficial? Must? Doesn't matter?

 

Thanks
A lot of grinding to get parts off, and I always use my 1/4" die grinder with 80 or 100 grit sandpaper to get the frame paint off.

Yes.

Depends on your usage... Do you go fast? All a resi does is hold more shock oil so the shock can stay cooler. A cooler shock means less fading.
You may not need it, but they're typically not much more so, why not?

 

Thanks for all your help!

 

Awwww snap!

 

http://rocktactics.com/rock-tactics-podium-series-chevy-spring-swap-kit-for-toyota/

Will these work?