How to: Chevy 63" Leaf Spring Swap

Gotcha! And in the past, I have W'd and snapped probably 3 or 4 leaf packs, doubted with a lighter rig/less power/bigger tires. Thats why I myself am even worried with just a 3 leaf pack and no antiwrap, just since our trucks are pretty heavy and have decent torque in low range. In your case I would run a shorter shackle, or do what the guy a couple posts up did and take some Chevy leafs out and throw some other leafs in to adjust. Whats your Hub to Flare measurement just for fun?

 

ive bent main leafs on rigs with v8 torque and lighter and only on 31s, but still new to both tacomas and 63" leafs.
not sure my experience is applicable to relate to my current situation.
cant find any pics i thought i had of when i was cycling with just a main leaf but i think I can't go to a shorter shackle without chancing reversal in rebound.
looking at my notes, im at 25.3" fender to wheel center in the rear (21.5" up front), so dropping down several inches in the back would be nice.

I havent seen too many people talk about it on this forum and I've never done it but I have seen posts in other forums in the past where people cut the rear (behind the axle) section of a leaf but retain the front half to keep axle wrap down.
I suppose that's an option i can try too

 

I'm building a pack like this right now. The idea, as far as I'm aware, comes from the old Chrysler super stock leaf packs. Some of the after market packs come with a half leaf.

 

do you cut right at the axle perch or a diamond cut a little behind it?

 

I would do a slight taper cut behind it, and round it off a good amount to its not digging into the main

 

the reason i asked about flush to the axle perch is because if it's flush, there's nothing to dig into the leaf above it (would still be the 2nd leaf, not the main) as it's clamped between the shim between each leaf and in my case a pinion angle shim

 

Good question. I planned to do a straight cut and bevel the edges so it doesn't dig in... but perhaps more research is required. Here is the article that got me exploring this...

https://www.onallcylinders.com/2019...leaf-spring-suspension-without-traction-bars/

 

Im sitting at 23" hub to fender at ride height, and monster truck at full droop

 

Finally flexed it out. Need to bump the rear maybe .5"-1" more since the vertical bump/articulation bump varies so much with the stock bump location. Either that, or just do air bumps so the bump location is closer to the shock plane.

 

Here’s some droop for ya

And this is how she sits on ride height I think it depends on how old the leafs are

I wonder how much droop I can get I’m on 12s right now

 

How does shackle degrees play for the Chevy 63s cause at full droop my 6” shackles look like they can go more

 

Yours may not go any more, just since a 6'' shackle is a little on the longer side. The leafs/axle weight may not have any more natural arch to pull the shackle straighter, or it could be the shocks maxxed out. If you look a couple posts above at my shackles, I run a 4'' and its right on the limit angle wise on both compression and extension.

 

I’m running a 12” right now I think it would be more of shock limiting

 

Your 6'' shackle looks like 45 degrees ish at ride height, and a 6'' shackle will see less movement than my 4'', so it naturally might not go more if youre picking up what Im putting down.

 

But If I had a longer shock that would change it I’m assuming I get what you mean tho

 

It might, but you're at the point where you need more free arch in the leaf to provide the droop, or a heavier axle/bigger tires to yank the leafs down

 

True I didn’t setup the leafs myself I had someone I was recommend to, he recommended 6” shackles so I got the low range kit. Does what your shackle sit at ride height determine lift you get?

 

OK SO I'm almost done!! I'm going to post a quick video explaining some things In better description. The 63" leaf swap has been a good learning experience. FIRST THING FIRST WE HAVE C CHANEL FRAMES BOX THAT SH!T IN. the box in kit by Trail gear has everything you need https://trail-gear.com/tacoma-rear-frame-box-kit.html Ruff stuff ALSO sells the total 63" swap kit https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.co...juhVG4EIXY1WuZylwXMpK8h520cZEReRoC8TEQAvD_BwE. Has everything you need!!!
I did NOT disconnect my gas tank, or my axle as I waz not confident enough to get everything aligned back up property. You need to support the Frame really well to avoid those steps. All in all it waz pretty straight forward. I took everything off, grinded the shit out of it. Then pre set the new shackles and kinda lined everything up. Shackle angles at about 45° with regular loaded weight (truck bed+bumper+normal carry) While I boxed in the frame I used weld on primer to keep rust from building and sealing the inside after its all welded. There's already a pretty good video on the whole swap with measurements on YouTube. SAS Tacoma leaf swap, by travis' shop. I kept referring to that vid when I had questions. The shock relocation location waz idea found on a 4x4 forum it's suppose to help with articulation and side to side swinging I shall do a review on how it feels on and off road. I also did the abs delete which waz simple enough I will also give a review about the swaps when I get her running this weekend 10/16/21. I will share a link when video is up loaded

 

Mounting shocks like that has few benefits, that don't outweigh the downfalls. A benefit is you will get about twice as much travel that the shock has, but the main downfall is now that shock is only doing half of the dampening that it would if it were mounted straight up and down. This will make the rear end bouncy, and will allow lots of body roll. So unless you have the shock valved for the angle, its best to keep them as vertical as you can.

 

Also the shock end is going to be the bump stop as it doesn’t appear there is any other bump stop pictured.