How to: Chevy 63" Leaf Spring Swap

Well, most of it is in. Missing some hardware, need to add in the leaf pack shims, pretty much minor stuff.

6" shackles netted probably exactly 1/2" of lift. After I added the hydros however I believe it's back at level lol I may consider putting in the overload as I am supercharged with fbo and want to mitigate any axle wrap.. or I could see what happens with a 7" shackle after I have mh final weight on.

I have a set of shocks that will be going in with a smaller collapsed length and same travel spec. Looking to adjust the shock and hydro bump position a bit more. Haven't finalized the shock yet.

 

For sure. My flatbed is my issue right now. Can’t really cut it and trying to see the general height for 14’s. I have bamf towers and some Tmr towers. Travel wise I think I think I can fit 14’s but packaging wise not so much. Will check this week when I get a chance to work on the truck again.

 

Could you just space up the flatbed? I am planning on building mine at the height of the door handles basically so probably 6" higher than yours looks.

 

100%. Because I have more of a commercial flatbed the higher I raise it the more cog goes up and causes a few issues. Batteries are relocated to the bed so I would have to extend those wires too. Doable but a bed like @colinb17 with super high fenders or a set up like @SMKYTXN with storage in the middle and a high deck would have been better. Have what I have now with the cap so going to try and make it work. I still use the truck to load stuff and what not so having it a bit lower is still ideal. Trying to have my cake and eat it too but you usually sacrifice in one or more areas when doing so.

 

Man, been a while since Nathan and I were tagged in the same thread! Thanks for getting the band back together.

I'm probably the farthest thing from knowledgeable about Chevy 63 setups....
So with that out of the way, could you angle the shocks far enough forward to clear the underside of the flatbed? The angle is easy to compensate for with valving, and if you're running hard enough that the valving causes the shocks to heat up too much, a 3.0 and frame notch would solve that.

 

two builds I have been following since I first joined. Love it. Happy to get the band back together.

unfortunately my knowledge of shocks has been a limiting factor in mounting as well. Been trying to do some research and figure out how angles and what not will impact dampening. I could do the angle mount as you suggested or mount inboard on an /\ kinda angle. I’m under the impression the more straight up and down the shock is, the better it does its job….

Other issue is I’m kind of limited on shock rebuilds and valving in my neck of the woods in Canada. Between the limited amount of shock tuners and the amount they charge or importing from a well known tuner from the states and getting obliterated with duties and shipping (and now potentially tariffs).

Truck will be back together hopefully tomorrow with the longer stock b110 shocks I have. Will measure ones it’s on its wheels and take the plunge to order some shocks. Will run some ideas through here to get the best for travel and ride quality.

 

Most of it is just geometry and proportions.

The more in-line a shock is with the travel, the less it has to work, but you also get less wheel travel. Higher the angle, the harder it has to work, but the more wheel travel you get. Don't mistake "harder it has to work" for "doesn't work as well". All that means is that with appropriate valving for the angle, a higher angle shock will generate more heat than a properly valved vertical shock. If, and that's a big if, heat is an issue for you, there are plenty of ways to fight that. Reservoirs, heat syncs, or just a larger diameter shock in general.

Revalving shocks is actually very easy. Depends on the brand, but a nitrogen fill kit and spanner wrench are generally the only specialty tools you need. Just a bench vise and some wrenches beyond that. In the states, a shim kit is about $30 per shock, and a nitrogen tank and valves are about $200. I'll be teaching a shock rebuilding/valving seminar at an overland expo in October. Shy of flying out to that, YouTube will walk you through how to work on shocks better than I can through typing, but I'm happy to help where I can if you go the custom route.

For reference, class 1 buggies all run pretty crazy shock angles, and there are only two trophy trucks classes that can outrun them.

 

I will say that 14" shocks all have varying collapsed and extended lengths. Check out bilsteins catalog for off road universal shocks with eye to eye mounting and the travel length 14.14" in the filter. You'll see very quickly based on the specs that the collapsed length can vary from 20 in to 23-ish in depending on if it is a remote reservoir shock or not.

Also, I have a myriad of reference material I think overall this would be the best link to provide here for everyone to also gander at. Its very kind of clear after I read it a couple dozen times . Really grateful my google-fu dug it up but only a few certain things would pertain to is as this link is moreso for street hot rodders but in principality and cross referencing info it makes sense. I just had to go out and do it and see.

https://www.bedfordspeedway.com/toolbox_leaf.htm

 

In reference to shock valving, tuning, etc. Components like rate plates and hi flow pistons with hydro bumps and tuneable oil weights and shock pressures can make things pretty interesting

I believe that you should build your suspension around your final weight and your overall usage and then throw the shock in. But if you're able to fuse some metal together, the mounting options can drive you nuts with more variables. I tried to keep it simple and right now I'm not happy enough to weld in my shock mounting because I don't have my proposed shocks nor final weight.. axle tabs suck to cut off cleanly.

 

Just realized did not provide updates. All good with the 5” shackles, 14” fox shocks and BAMF towers.

I’ll add photos tomorrow.

 

appreciate the help guys. My goal for today is to put everything together since the welding and fab items are done. Tank, axle shafts and all the fun stuff going back in today if time allows. Sucks when you only get a day or two to work on stuff in a month. Currently working out of a buddies shop 40ish minutes away so progress has been slow.

Once that’s all in I’ll start measuring and play around with some towers.

Love how a project can snowball and next thing you know it’s entirely apart.

 

unless you're starting with a completely blank canvas, it is generally easier to do it like will said, where you get everything set up, and then select/fit/tune your shocks. It may likely be a custom upper mount in your case. Nathan's truck is a better example for you than mine for that. not only because he has a flatbed, but because he kept the factory frame rails. Chopping the frame rails off created a ton of extra design work that had to be done ahead of any fabricating, but it also introduced a lot of freedom. designing from nothing allows you to go to the other end of the spectrum (if you desire), and prioritize your shock package and design around it. however for you, build out the flatbed, get the main leaf and a mock-up spacer in, and then cycle the suspension to see what you're working with. make the shock fit and not be the limiting travel factor up or down. Then the performance can be taken care of with the valving, oil, nitrogen, etc regardless of the angle you end up with (within reason of course).

 

That’s the plan. I’m kinda limited with the current setup. Would ideally like 14” shocks since I’m sure the 63’a can use them but have to consider the bed for shock packaging and up travel where the tire will rub.

today wasn’t as productive as I had some issues with the gas tank so had to cut and move some stuff. Measure once cut twice right….live and learn.

 

Have you looked at the Bilstein 14" short body shock? These fit with modified the BAMF or other shock towers that work in the standard bed. I think you have the flatbed and I've lost track of who has what setup but might be worth measuring. They're 19.6 collapsed (I think OEM is near 14)

https://www.shocksurplus.com/produc...J0wgmK1cXx6KDbKpI9zqSeuiNMGTyh4XiZ8iijVGfn0-n

 

perfect. May be able to swing it then since I have the bamf towerrs. Heard mixed things on 14’s fitting so will see. I am waiting to get the truck back in its wheels and will be doing some measuring.


Appreciate the help everyone!

 

This how it sits. Spare is about 95 lbs. I’m on 5100’s sitting 1” higher than stock.

 

As you can tell I’m on bamf’s with 14” shocks. My provided was not able to secure the 7100 so I went with fox. Perfect so far.

 

perfect. I’ll test the bamf shock towers with my bed and see what travel numbers I have. For my application it should be good enough.

 

Don't forget to check shock body clearance at full flex before you weld out. Your axle will twist to a much higher angle with this new setup, which brings the compression side tire inward towards the shock more.

 

Thanks for the heads up.