How to: DIY Wedge Camper

Great work!!!

Can we see how the latches work from the inside with the door closed?

Also where did you source the hinges from and what number?

 

The tab of the compression latches grab the protruding end of the spring loaded slide latch. I just press down on the slide bolt handle and the pressure from the bulb seal opens the corner of the door. Do the other side and the door opens. Easy to close, too. I only did this on the rear door.

I got them from McMaster:
https://www.mcmaster.com/2206A34/

I wish I would have mounted them lower. There is plenty of room, and as they sit, are pretty close to the gas strut, which I don't like. I also would have flipped the orientation of the slide bolt, that way a really harsh bump wouldn't potentially disengage the latch. But the springs have a good amount of force, and with the pressure from the compression latch, it would take a considerable bump to slide them on accident.


I got the hinges from cook and boardman. ABH-A110HD in black
https://www.cookandboardman.com//pr...inum-continuous-gear-hinge-full-mortise-black





I didn’t measure perfectly for the cutout of the southco on the door, so it doesn’t grab the slide bolt as much as it could, but it’s still enough to hold really well. I’ve tried pulling open the door with it latched and they hold.

 

I didn't have any bites. But if you end up finding a fixture for a 3rd gen short bed I'd love to take it off your hands when you're done. I had some delays and I haven't even ordered steel yet. If I do end up finding one, I'll let you know.

 

@Red Baron Think you could print up a few for Josh and I?

 

Starting a new build after following this thread for a long time. I’m in a first gen Tundra double cab - we call it the big tacoma. Very grateful for the good advice shared here!

Ive seen a few posts recently about welding fixtures. I significantly simplified the fixture and had great results. You don’t need to build or wait for a complicated fixture. I built mine in an hour or less.

My “fixture” was just two simple scrap wood frames. I welded the top and bottom steel frames on my welding table and garage floor using clamps, a big square, and tape measure for alignment. You could get great results on a mediocre garage floor - no welding table required. Then I set these on the truck bed and wood frames. I didn’t even make those frames perfectly accurate. I measured heights at each corner and shimmed for perfect height. I used a level, plumb bob (twine and nuts), and tape measure to align the frames. Then I slowly started adding tack welds and verifying alignment as I went. This is super simple and probably faster than building the original fixture design.

 

That is exactly how I made my frame as well.

Made a top frame and bottom frame, spaced them to the height that I wanted and cut and welded the uprights and bracing. Way easy.

 

Same for me. Made a basic box (just four sides, no top or bottom) from some osb I had laying around my shop that was as tall as the inside clear dimension of the spaceframe height.

Good tip @Rando_lurker

 

I have a base DIY camper for sale if anyone is interested https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-wedge-camper-shell-only-san-diego-1000.741990/

 

My mostly finished riocord version for sale. Canvas keder sewn, just not the windows and door. Side panels fixed in place, but the attach point for struts still there if ever wanted to change.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/wedge-camper.741268/#post-26406207

 

If anyone is looking for an inexpensive latch alternative, I used these:

6Pack Black Adjustable Latch Clamp, 4002 Latch-Style Toggle Clamp, Heavy Duty Pull Action Latch with Catch Plate, 550lbs Capacity Metal Quick Release Draw Latch for Jig Smoker Door Tool Boxes Trunk

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B098MSJLM4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

They’re the same style draw latches that the Vagabond drifter and AT Summit use. I used some #8-32 flathead bolts with them, got some quarter-turn drop-in nuts from TNutz. They don’t require any modifying, and are really nice to dial in the tension. Snug but not crazy tight.

I initially used the jeep latches, but I was having a really hard time getting them to fit well - they were either really tight and hard to open (couldn’t open from the ground with the leverage) or not latching well at all.

 

Yeah!! Glad it worked for you as well!

 

Is anyone with ripcords camper, full camping setup and Dakar HD leafs willing to make some pictures for me of there leaf springs?
I am asking, because I am wondering if my leaf springs are worn out, the truck overloaded with the camper or if my leaf spring are normal looking.
My springs with the camper look like this

thanks for the help

 

Hey @davzx can you show us more of the angled corners on your panels?
What router bit did you use?
How did you calculate how deep to run it?
What kind of epoxy?
Etc.

 

So, basically, OME Dakars aren't what they used to be. A lot of guys I know, packs have flattened out after very little use. I have HD Dakars, they developed a "W" after about 6 months. OME told me is was "by design".

Moving to Deaver stage 3 soon. So, yes, my pack is flattened out basically with the wedge and BFF rear bumper

 

I haven't done this so I can't really answer the question. Just wanted to point out a resource that may help. Some of the panel manufacturers will have fabrication guides available on their websites. They should be helpful - they are meant to be quick guides so sign shops can hav success and keep buying the same brand of panel. Here's one for Alumalite from Laminators inc. https://www.laminatorsinc.com/sites/default/files/pdf/sign_panel_production_guide_0721.pdf. The cutting and bending section starts around page 4. I think they specify a specific router bit that they sell. You can probably look at what's there and substitute something you already have or something locally available. You might even be able to do it with a table saw or circular saw at 45 degrees. These are small bends so it isn't as critical.

 

I'll get some pics of the corners tomorrow. I just used a track saw, and set the plunge depth to cut through almost all of the composite core, leaving just the outer aluminum skin. Ran a few passes on some scrap until the depth was perfect, and bent it by hand, working my way down the length of it. Once it was bent I opened it up enough to squeeze some epoxy in the kerf, and held the bend in place with some strips of masking tape until it cured. The width of the blade removed the perfect amount of material to bend to 45* until the inside edges touched.

Epoxy I used is linked below. The EZ mix straw made it simple to lay a bead inside the cut.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-Instant-Mix-0-47-fl-oz-5-Minute-Epoxy-6-Pack-1365868/202056577

 

I have a cap already and I'm looking for just a parts list for the tent if there is one, I have the Excel sheet for the whole build just wondering if someone can point out just the tent build if anyone has done it?

Thanks

 

I didn't make a tent-only (did the full build), but you'll need:

• All items under 'wedge frame' (I didn't use line #9 wiper seals - this application doesn't really make sense, especially if you use silicone at all joints as many of us have.)
• All items under 'Tent canvas DIY'
• Line #14 (of column C, NOT spreadsheet row) which is (2) 36" gas struts
• (4) of line #15
• Line #18
• Line #19
• Line #20
• Line #23
• Line #26
• Line #39
• Line #40

You may want to consider adding a few lateral supports underneath the tent floor since you won't have the spaceframe to support it, or look into a honeycomb panel. A 3mm panel with that clear span is definitely not rigid enough on its own - it'll deflect like crazy. If you use some 1.5" 8020 and some brackets that'll help, although you'll lose that interior height. If you have a prinsu or frontrunner rack then might be fine without the supports (looks like that's how @DeanJ did his).

 

Awesome build! I'm still working on the sewing, finally figured out my problem and now have all the keder sewn in and working on the windows. Once that's done then it's on to solar and lights. Picked up a ecoflow delta at rei garage sale for $700 and using that for the time being until I run the second battery setup.

Please share your storage build out when you're done. I was planning a similar build, much like goose gear but cheaper lol. I'm curious as to how you attach everything.

 

I still have to bolt the tops down, and vinyl plank flooring to finish install, but here's a photo from the other day.

So far the total price is ~$450.