How to: DIY Wedge Camper

Yeah!

A couple of spots have lifted a little because of the hinges or the roof rack brackets, I'm guessing that if I ever silicone the top lip of the EPDM it'll help with that. For now I just am using a 1/2" 3M tape.

 

Did you install the rubber under the hinges or cut at the hinges? I just got mine so will be installing this weekend

 

I'll have to dig up the photos, but essentially removed all the curved portions of the roof and made the rear a 1.5x1.5 instead of rectangle and drilled up through the aluminum and attached with bolts and the slide nuts in the underside of the track. Then had the wedge roof like everyone else's. I did have a brace across the front of the shell to attach too.

 

What did the dimension from the bed to the 80/20 end up being? Also what is the width to the inside of the 80/20 (the sleeping width)?

 

Any interior pics? Did you need to brace any other areas besides the front?

 

Between the 80/20 is 50"
Bed to bottom of 80/20 is 37.75"

 

Nope no other photos of the interior, if I get a chance to open it up in the daylight, I'll grab some.

I have a brace going across the roof in the middle, not sure it's needed, but nice to hang a lantern off of. The from overhang has rigid foam the same depth as the crossbar and the bed slides over. The foam is backed with carpet so that's where my feet are.

 

@Clamber247

Thanks! Just what I wanted to see!
Would love to see more interior photos too

Now I just need to find the right DCU cap. Found one a few hours away for a decent price, but it doesn’t have any side windows. Having slept in my current leer I think I would really miss not having them.

 

I was just curious if anyone has designed/built a way to take their wedge off like a slide in camper with jacks or something else? Not lifted to a ceiling.
Pictures if you have them. Thanks.

 

Has anyone done anything clever to make the wedge portion removable? It would be cool to be able to remove it quickly and replace with a normal roof panel.

 

Could just make second 8020 panel to to drop on. Would be a hassle having to undo all the bolts and lift it off, drop the other on and bolt em back down… but if you used bolts in the 8020 track that drop down through the frame it probably wouldn’t be too bad.

 

My first idea was to rimmed the top of the frame with 1.5”x1.5” 8020 then latch the wedge to that. Maybe you have to bolt the wedge to frame 8020 but the few brackets with face bolts would be easier to access.

 

My first thought would be sealing it up, you could use bulb seals, but they don’t hold up well to repeated uninstall reinstall.

 

What about the same seal that is being used to seal between the two halves of the wedge.

 

Yea I don’t see why it wouldn’t work, idk that anyone has any long term testing yet on their wedge to see if it’s still holding up well.

 

If it does leak it would be leaking below the wedge so I’m not was worried about a tiny bit of water entering as long as my bedding/mattress isn’t getting wet.

 

I was thinking the same thing after my last post. Permanently mount a section of 8020 and then mount the wedge to it, only catch there is you would probably still need a 2nd “panel” to be your topper. That way your always latching 8020 on with either the blank top or the wedge. A latch may not be strong enough but a couple plates might do the trick

 

But with all that said, I’m more likely to just hang onto my current cap so I could take the whole wedge off and just throw my leer back on… but I’d probably be to lazy to due that…

 

Right. I was thinking of making a 2nd panel that is just a roof for the frame without the wedge.

 

that’s probably the easiest and fastest way.

you might be able to get away with a cork seal “permanently” mounted on the extrusion attached to the space frame for sealing it.

just gotta figure out the fastest and most secure to swap them out