How to: DIY Wedge Camper

Nice work!
Which side of the gas strut is the canvas going to go on? When I was designing mine I wanted the struts to be hidden as well, but I didn't think it would have worked if the struts were inside like that because it blocks the material from folding inwards and will bunch up.

 

Mine are on the inside, but outside of the tent material. I plan on running an adjustable bungee to keep tension in while I lower the top, seems to work with the shower curtain mock up.
The downside was it took up a lot of real estate, since I want to run a gasket around the bottom of the top frame.

I like the one you built, looks good.
My brother just got a spool gun for aluminum, man that thing is slick.
We just had a tig torch, there's no way I could tig weld the seams that long, too much heat.

My version 2, if there is one will be .120" aluminum, all welded seams with no space frame, some interior stiffeners.


Below shows it a little bit, before I cleaned up the compressed butyl tape.

 

Ahh yeah I see. Yeah that should work well.

Yeah mine is .120 and we used a spool aluminum gun. The .120 works well for structural and there's really minimal framing inside.
I remember seeing a video of an AT habitat aluminum being bent and it took a few guys to move the sheet around because it was so thin it could have creased if it wasn't supported on all sides during the process. I'd imagine they can save some weight there, but it just seemed thin.

Have you started to think about the sewing yet? haha that for me actually took the longest but was the most rewarding once it was done.

 

@nanserb

What type/size are the screws you used on the Piano hinges in the pic above?

I found some ultra low profile screws but Im not sure if I need them or I can just order regualr button head or bolts.

 

I used the ones that were spec'd in @Ripcord build sheet. https://www.mcmaster.com/91500A829/

Countersunk into the backside, worked really well. The ends are a little sharp, putting some acorn nuts on the outside would be better but they're big money.

 

Great information on here everyone! I have been reading and taking notes for my build. One question-why the corner brackets on the extruded rails for the clamshell? Why isn't anyone making the rectangle with the extrusions and attaching them together with L brackets inside and out? why the need to make those corner fastener brackets? seems like extra work.

 

Waterproofing for one - the solid backing of the corner brackets makes it a little simpler to close up the ends of the extrusions. It's a bit annoying that they're just a tad shorter than the extrusions, but a simple bead of silicone fixes that. Other than that, aesthetics. I like the softened corner, and I imagine whatever the solution to sealing up the open extrusion end would be tricky to make low profile and clean.

 

I’m going to be selling mine shortly. I never finished the tent but I have everything to make said tent.

 

Short or long bed, location?

 

Finished welding the final supports for the space frame. I figured more support couldnt hurt.

Also primed the bulkhead before final paint. Should be priming the frame after I weld on small tabs for the compression locks to catch in the next few days.

 

Question about t-nuts. For those who have built with these... What are your thoughts on the "economy t-nuts" vs the drop in with the spring ball bearing, vs the leaf spring, vs the rubber handle, vs the set screw, vs single nuts, vs double or triple nuts? Stainless vs nickle vs black oxide?

I'm trying to figure out what fasteners to order. Don't want to order too many or too few and don't want to waste money on nuts and screws if not necessary.

I'm using silver extrusion, so either black or silver hardware will work. I'll be using 1.5 x 4.5 on the bottom and 1.5 x 3.0 on the top.

https://www.tnutz.com/product-category/15-series-hardware/

 

Personally, if I were to do this again, I'd spend the extra money and buy all drop-in with the spring. They stay in place, so would make mounting the extrusions to spaceframe easier. It wasn't too difficult with the economy nuts, but I had to use a pick to align them over my pre-drilled holes. AND they will fall to the back of the slots, so getting the threading started can sometimes be a pain in the ass. The drop-in nuts with springs hold the nut against the front of the slot so threading is waaaay easier. During the initial build I had to remove the corner brackets a handful of times to add economy nuts where I didn't have the foresight initially, thus needing to reapply silicone. I've also removed my tent canvas a couple times to make modifications (sewed an entirely new V2 too), and since I used the economy nuts for that, I had to hold them in place with little balls of tape in the slots to prevent them from all sliding down (re-installed with the tent open, thus having an angled top extrusion).

I only use the drop-ins now for any additions.
https://www.tnutz.com/product/dl-015/

 

Thank you. That's exactly the kind of info/advice/experience I was looking for.

 

I went with the regular T Nuts. The economy kind suck. You don’t need any of the other fancy style for this build

 

New question for those with more knowledge and experience with the aluminum composite sheet material....

I'm looking at three different versions made by MaxMetal. They are all 3mm thick, but one has .15mm skin, one has .20mm and one has .30mm.

Is the skin thickness that big of a consideration? Like from a durability standpoint. Since I have zero experience with this material, I don't know how to gauge its strength.... like is .15mm strong/thick enough to drag a tree branch down without tearing it open like a soda can ?? lol

Thoughts?

https://www.grimco.com/Catalog/Products/MAXmetal

https://www.grimco.com/Catalog/Products/MAXMETALPLUSALUMINUMCOMPOSITEPANELS

https://www.grimco.com/Catalog/Products/MAXmetalHD

 

I think most people use the 0.15mm skin, as it is most available and cheapest.

Also, I second the spring nuts over the economy ones. The economy ones rust out real quick. I'd spring for a stainless version of the spring ones if they exist.

 

Good info. Thanks for the reply.

 

Hey Elliott,

When I try to open the 4332 caps file it only opens as a triangle in Cura. The other 3 files are working awesome! Are you able to check that file on Printables?

Thanks!,
Barry

 

Hey Barry,

Fixed it. Thanks for pointing that out.

 

Question, I have a first gen 2002 and am preparing to build a wedge...first question is it looks like many of these builds have rail systems in their beds to mount to. My first gen does not have this system. are there good clamps that will secure this to the bed or do I have to drill mounting holes through the top of my bed sides to mount the camper? Anyone build one of these for a first gen? Thanks