How to: DIY Wedge Camper

Vinyl wraped the roof of the camper.

 

that looks killer. Great job

 

Thanks my white aluminum roof panel turned chalky because of age. When it rains or even just morning dew, streaks of white would drip down the whole camper. It was annoying lol. This should fix that.

 

Have you had any issues with your roof vent in the rain? I was thinking of doing this same thing, but concerned that when the tent is open and there is a heavy enough rain that the runoff might be enough to splash over the lip of the vent.

 

I only had it in the rain a few times. I thought the same thing, but had no issues with rain getting in. I didn't add the skirt, which is the only issue I have now with rain.

 

Great job! What's the overall length of your extrusion? Looks like about seven feet in total.

Also, wondering if you can share some more pics on the tent material and sewing process. I love the look and functionality of the big windows.

 

Sure! Extrusion is 100" long, so just over 8 feet.

I started by cutting a rough shape of the canvas, with plenty of extra, based on the dimensions of the tent opening. I used the width of the fabric - two hems to determine the max opening height of the camper. I hemmed those first (the rear window) before anything else, to establish a baseline.


Next I did a test fit with the rough cut shape, and the two hemmed edges that were already locked in:



The keder rails and awning cord are really nice because you can pull the sides tight then pin them in place, remove the rails, then sew the final hems.

Once I had that complete, I started on the windows. Essentially just lots of measuring and marking first, then make the final cuts.



The zippers are all double stacked so you can open the window, the bug mesh, or both together. I actually sewed all the lengths of zippers together first, then made hems large enough to accomodate the dual zipper design. Then, sewed the zippers onto the canvas. Used lots of basting tape, clips, and pins.


I did the bug mesh last on the side windows, once the canvas was already sewed to the zippers. This was because the bug mesh on the side windows is on the outside. This allows you to open the window from the inside but leave the bug mesh up, or take them both down at once.



The rear window was a bit trickier since I wanted the ability to prop the rear window canvas open like an awning with some poles. So, for the rear window, the mesh is on the inside. Velcro on the bottom of the rear window allows you to easily readjust the rear mesh and canvas panels when closing.



Lastly, I terminated the zippers on the windows behind sewn on triangular and rectangular patches, to hide the ends and make everything shed water better:


I had 0 sewing experience prior to this. I purchased a Juki HZL-F300 for this project (and future projects) and it was incredible. Sewed through multiple layers of canvas and zipper like butter. Pretty much everything is just a simple straight stitch with a few zigzags and overcasting stitches in a few spots.

 

Since theres quite a few that have had theirs for a while now, whats your thoughts on Alupanel type panels? Still worthwhile or should I look at alum sheet instead?

I see quite a few have waves and bends in the Alupanel after some use, but it's hard to tell how bad in photos. Ripcords IG also stated "Gone is the steel space frame and flimsy doors and in comes an all aluminum structure."

 

My build was just completed a few months ago so I can't speak as much to the longevity, but here's my thoughts regarding Alupanel:

I was considering aluminum sheeting instead, but ultimately went Alupanel for the cost and availability near me. It was around twice the cost to go aluminum from my local suppliers. Aluminum sheets are also a bit tougher to work with, and heavier for the same thickness. Ultimately I figured even if I damage a panel and it needs to be replaced, it will be cheaper to replace than to have spent more on Aluminum.

That being said, yes the Alupanel can easily warp if it is not stiffened. I accidentally dropped a piece while working and had to straighten it out. My black panels also have some visible scuffing from a recent offroading trip where brush was scraping on them. This could easily be remedied by a wrap or other more durable coating than the finish they come with.

Ripcord's V2.5 Update on IG shows that he made custom GFC style aluminum panels with the edges press-braked. If I had the extra cash that would have been a really nice way to go. Really comes down to cost and level of fabrication effort to make the decision between the two options.

Others can chime in on the longevity but I'm happy with the decision to go Alupanel/Maxmetal at the start. I can always upgrade in the future if needed.

Cheers

 

I am so appreciative for the write up. This clears up SO much for me. I will 100% be stealing all your ideas so look forward to a post on that in the coming weeks. I especially like the cork gasket material on the base of your sleeping platform frame. Cheers!

 

I want to mount some L-Track to the roof of my wedge camper for a roof rack, which is powder coated aluminum and I'm curious what you guys use to prevent water from getting in. The inside of the roof is carpeted/fabric so I'd rather not slather some types of silicone or other sealants that might weep inside on bedding etc
Thanks

 

Anyone have a file for awning brackets that fit the 4.5” extrusion to 4.5” awning profile? Thought I’d check before making one. (If someone want to help me make one even better haha)

Awning is a Body Armor Sky Ridge 270. Thanks!

 

Been 3 years and my welds are still holding together lol. Spent a full week dispurse camping in the Eastern Sierras. A lot of washboard dirt roads, bumps, rain, dust and 5 different sites. Camper did really well. Southco latches did start to bind, but there are dust covers that people 3D print. Also I'm curious how long the 100 lb wedge struts will last. If one blows out, that would suck lol

 

I got so excited when I saw this post. I've been follwoing for years now and had always wanted to design the base out of extrusion (I've done so in CAD at least) but was certain there was a reason he didnt do it initially maybe for strength or something... Amped to see his test results!

 

I’m using the Super Pacific awning brackets on my RTT. I just slotted the bottom hole more to fit my tents extrusion profile. I would bet they fit the 4.5” extrusion well.

 

Made a mini roof rack to go in front of the camper

 

Very cool, how are you attaching it to the roof?

 

Update! Done with the tent and install! Couple of hiccups overall but ready for a camp in the next couple weeks.

The 3d printed keder corners worked for the most part but they were a pain to get installed with the corners of the fabric. Updated the file with help from a coworker to round out instead of meet at a corner and beefed it up for support.

Still need to replace the corners with the updated version and let a little bit of fabric out since the wedge is pulling the rail out of the corner.

Updated the sleeping platform that I initially had made of square tubing. It ended up being a 1/4 in too wide to hinge up once the keder track was installed... New platform I got from work that was scrap.

Molle panels I picked up from SuperPacific and just installed rivnuts to mount them. Designed and 3d printed a couple of molle hooks to mount my camp chair. More parts for that coming soon too.

Next update is the floor. Insulation and bedliner on a solid piece of plywood so I can piece together the storage for electrical and supplies.

 

I used the Sherpa mounting feet kit that they sell specifically for their Tacoma roof racks. Then the feet just bolt to the crossbars and then the wind deflector/side panels just bolt to the crossbars as well.

https://sherpaec.com/products/mount...Ou6p3Zmn7sb2RiYGxUCW95&variant=39248655614142

 

Has anyone tried to liquid nail or use some other type of adhesive to apply the angled aluminum door stiffeners to the inside of the doors as a replacement to riveting? Rebuilding my doors now to use a continuous hinge and would like the clean aesthetic without all the rivets on the exterior. Unsure if there are any issues with durability long term.