How to: DIY Wedge Camper

I was gonna say what @plurpimpin said. Don’t run your movable panels all the way to the edge of the space frame else you won’t clear the keder rail.

 

I plan to run a diesel heater in my truck. Do you guys think I still need the condensation mat?

 

Get some 0.025" wire for your mig welder. It makes welding 16 and 18ga tube WAY easier! I started out practicing with 0.035" wire and on the thin walled tube it made me feel like I forgot how to weld - I was constantly burning through and had very little control. I switched to the thinner wire and 16ga with 0.025" wire welds as easily as 1/8" with 0.035" wire.

It's a little detail that most people overlook and it makes a huge difference.

Yes, I had condensation under an area of my pad where the mat had slipped out on a relatively warm night. Condensation is going to be a much bigger issue in temperatures where you'd want the heater. I don't think there's any good way to get by without the anti-condensation mat. You're already spending a few grand in materials just spring the extra $100 to avoid a moldy mat.

I have a diesel heater I'm working on setting up as well. I'm going to go the portable pelican case mounted approach since I only need it for ski season.

 

I'm making a mess with a flux core welder. But I have a mig at the makerspace I could utilize then.

 

Does yours have gas input? It's worth it to buy a bottle.

 

My flux, no. But I’ve got a 220 MIG with gas at the makerspace.

I’m still on the fence about doing the movable platform. Worse comes to worse I redo my build later down the road if I really want the panels.

 

It’s Ottertex canvas with PVC backing. I would stay away unless you have a sewing machine with room for bulk material as it’s stiffness makes it exceedingly difficult to manage lol

 

Is about 0.5" clearance on each side enough room?

Also, has anyone tried feeding the kedar cord inside of the extrusion rail? Just curious.

 

https://www.sailrite.com/Awning-Tra...mu4n0kSc3xJj5y0h1_69m5OOhaGQ5RxRoC5-0QAvD_BwE

According to the dimensions on the sailrite site the track is 0.475” tall so that might be cutting it alittle close.

 

Got the space frame plans, got my steel on its way. Anyway how are folks dealing with this on the 3rd gens?

The tops of the sides and front of the bed aren't even. When I remove the plastic it will be even more uneven.

So far my ideas are

remove the upper part of the front of the bed, make a piece out of angle that's level with the bed side.

Build the space frame around the lip.

Anything else I should be looking at?

 

Okay party people, I’ve got a jig I can now sell. Setup for a Gen 1 long bed, but should be adjustable. Let me know if interested. Seattle area. Definitely helpful having it.

 

I am thinking just running double bulb seal and that's it. it should be water tight ? or you could possibly run 1/8" foam strips with adhesive just on the sides to level it up, and then run double bulb seal all around

 

It looks tough. I went with a much thinner material and found that it’s has its drawbacks too.

 

It does feel durable. I like it because there is zero light penetration, effectively black out curtain status lol. It was just a total pain when it came to heming and sewing the zippers on the windows. Being thicker, it should be better in windy situations. Guess we will see!

 

On the contrary, I’m using a rather translucent material. Still wanted and wind proof, just I’ll be getting up with the sun lol. It was easy to sew, but sometimes felt too light and would bunch up too easily. Definitely tricky with the zipper.

In any case, can’t wait to see more of yours!

 

Anyone experiencing warpage on their spaceframe? Any tips on making sure the tubes are laying flat on the jig? Mine is on a jig very similar to @Ripcord 's

I have the bottom section tacked up and when I mock it up to my truck, the tube ends are raised ever so slightly on the bedrail (1/8-1/4 inch or so)... this to be expected?

 

Have any photos of the flat bar welded up? I'm debating between flat bar or angle iron... Thanks!

 

This is just after tacking up the tubes or welding?

 

Just after tacking up the square tubing... Not fully welded.

I plan to tack the entire frame up, then test fit to see if any 'manipulation' is needed to ensure it fits flush on the bedrails... really wish I had a massive welding table! hah

 

Weird you're seeing warpage from just tack welds. Fully welding you need to move around alot to keep the heat in the part low. Don't weld a whole joint at one. Weld one side of the square tube and move somewhere different while you let it cool. Tube work like this is really easy to warp if you rush and put too much heat into it at once.

My rhythm was basically do a weld on one corner and move to the next and basically kept working around the frame in circles so by the time I did 3 other welds the first one had some time to cool. On the rear of the frame (where there is no bottom tube) I let the parts cool completely between welds. The first time I did the rear the heat pulled each side in almost an inch so I had to grind out the welds and redo it. Also learned that on the rear it helps to add a support across the bottom while you weld it. I just clamped on a few pieces of angle iron to help hold it in place.