How to: DIY Wedge Camper

I don't believe the tack welds were to blame. I'm thinking the batch of tube I got had slight warps in them already. Just another reason to measure 50 times and weld once!

 

The frame should straighten out once you clamp it to the truck. Also the extrusion will force other parts to straighten out. 1/4 isnt that much over a 76in length.

 

well looks like I will be learning how to Tig weld sometime soon. Makerspace bought a Tig so I think I may go forth and add in the mod to make the bed panels movable and make the frames out of aloooooominium

 

Not sure if its just me, but the sewing portion is by far the hardest part of this whole build. I have two more bug screens to sew on to the zippers and the rain skirts and thats it. I think I am going to skip the awning portion of the rear window as I realize we hardly ever had that propped up on our past two tents since its just more wind noise when open. Not a massive deal to sew it on later.

Also, anyone has anyone else that built one of these for a long bed had issues with the middle of the door not sealing all the way across on the bottom? Thinking I am just gonna order some 1/4 in foam strip from Mcmaster to go on the space frame for the bulb seal to seat into. Seems using bulb seal on the frame and door is a little too thick and causes the bulging of the front and back.

 

Alupanel can be routered and bent doing so along the edges would add stiffness.

 

Don't overthink it so much!

For that area, use butyl to fill in the entire gap. Leave the plastic piece in place. Once you have your camper ready to go on, the bulb seal will conform and seal that area. the 1/8th" height difference isn't a big deal.

 

Thanks I was wondering if it was actually an issue. My concern was how structural the bulkhead was with the composite bed. If a small build up of butyl tape and bulb seal is able to sufficiently spread the load, great.

 

If you're using the T nuts and channel you can pull the frame down a quarter. Mine was off also mostly because of lack of clamps. If you clamp the frame down all 4 corners, and weld small runs from corner to corner, side to side, it should come back in to flat, if your jig is actually flat.
Zim

 

Hey folks, just wanted to share a useful contact with you all. I found this guy on eBay he was offering laser cut services, designing and stuff. I did my brackets through him, it was like $31 shipped or something, then after welding them on i realized that they are too short, not sure why because i did select third gen. So he offered his help modifying DXF file at no charge.
I have made few more things in fusion360 and had him cut it for me.
Anyways - a good fellow that can cut anything and help designing or modifying existing design , here is his email : villicana@outlook.com
Thanks!

 

That's great!

Aluminum isn't super difficult to weld, the trickiest part is getting your AC balance settings correct.

Buy a ton of ER4043, 2% lanthanated tungstens, and get to practicing!

 

Anyone got a link for some brackets for the wedge gas struts that will place the gas strut connected to the top of the wedge below the bottom of the strut when the lid is closed? That way the strut is pressing the wedge closed. Looking to maybe ditch the side latch to give more room for side accessories and simplify opening/closing.

 

I used some on the V1 camper. Though turned in the other direction, if you orient them as you describe you may run into issues with them bending backwards.
Had to drill them out for the 5/16"-18 fasteners also.

They can be found on the "V1" tab of the spreadsheet

 

Ah makes total sense. I suppose we can see how things go. Do you have any pictures of how you mounted your awning?

 

Worth a shot atleast, keep us posted.


Here is the bracket I made to mount the awning. Had to space it away to leave room for the side wedge latch.

 

Ah those brackets look nice! Might have to draw up something similar for Sendcutsend to cut out for me. Either way, if I get rid of the latch, Ill still have to clear the strut.

 

Here's my rough idea.
Still need to tweak it and take off quite a bit of the metal to make it look less blocky.
Just a piece of plate with 2 holes and a tapped hole for the gas strut mount.

 

I like how GFC or maybe its Super Pacific uses a machined aluminum piece for the gas strut mount. But one of them also mounts the strut inboard I believe

 

The Super Pacific looks cool, hides it too.
If I can get some scrap aluminum, maybe I'll try something a bit more complex.

 

Those who have decided to skip the vent in the tent, did you regret it?

just thinking back to other tents I have had, the vent never seemed to help with condensation

 

Frame is together, now to decide on the length of the extrusion.

Trying to keep it compact, I'm thinking of going 7' instead of 8' (planning on a modular floor). Anyone have insight on their choice of length? Anyone go less than 8'?