How to: DIY Wedge Camper

Roll on will definitely be easier to make sure you get everywhere (combined with a brush) and would be easier if you do not have favorable weather or a large spot to paint it. The spray will probably give a smoother finish, but it will be very very messy and you will need to cover over everything you don't want paint on (like everything) with plastic unless you paint it outside.

The hardest part about spraying is trying to get nice even coats while also trying to get all the little angles there are and undersides. I had to spray mine sitting right side up for the most part and then once it was dry enough, I flipped it on its side to get the undersides.

I sprayed mine, but it def seems like the etching primer didn't adhere as well as I thought it might. I took a scotch bright scuff pad to the whole thing and clean it with xylene.

 

Thanks. I did brush on my sliders that are welded to the frame, seems to be pretty good finish. Did 2 coats of primer and 2 coats of paint. May do the same and add additional clear coat. I’ll be painting in Makerspace garage , will probably rent a forced air propane heater form Home Depot as it will
Be quite cold for next few weeks (25-35f).

 

The best paint was Hammertone and it was brush on. I don't think it's available but rustoleum makes "hammered" quarts of brush on. I used the spray and it turned out fine.
Zim

 

Looking great! Thanks. How do you like rubber cork gasket? I have a roll but debating between that and butyl tape?

 

Hows that cork/foam working for you for waterproofing? I'm seriously considering just sealing everything with silicone rather than deal with gaskets and stuff.

 

For people interested in costs from scratch, looks like I will be under $3,500. Maybe slightly more depending on how I make my bed platform(movable). This doesn't include a mattress. This is a ballpark number as I pry spent 200 dollars on stuff I didn't need.

The BOM doesn't take into account taxes/shipping costs I believe. The most expensive component for me was the panels. I ended up getting them 90% cut and drilled which will save me a ton of time. This added about $300 extra.

In the end I will pry spend close to 5-6k after building out the lower section with a heater, battery setup, fridge, etc. Not a bad deal. I saved about 400 by making the wedge section slightly shorter since I am only 5'6" and saved over 100 bucks alone in shipping costs.

 

Having read the entire thread, I noticed that every build with the space frame has been on either a double cab or access cab. Has anyone put one on a regular cab? I am trying to determine if the cab over section will extend over the windshield. I know I could shorten it to match, but I like the idea of a 6’ space, especially since that will give me a 2’ gap at the back for access. Also, has anyone made the space frame close to vertical? When not using the camper for weekend trips to the dunes, I’ll be using it to secure work equipment. It would certainly make construction easier, as well as giving me a few extra inches for maximum storage.

EDIT: So after posting this, I went and pulled a few measurements on my truck. A 2’ cabover section falls well short of the front of the front of the cab. It looks like I could go to almost 3’ before running into issues. Based on the measurement of the bed, I’d probably settle on a 2.5’ or so cantilever.

 

I think I might have my hinge design figured out
Anyone have any input on a better anything, or why it might not work

A plan to use 1.5” x .25” bars double stacked similar to this (2nd photo is not my photo)

 

Is there a market for a GFC V1 tent? I just bought a new tent because I want side doors. I like Gen 1 PVC but I like the idea of side doors better.

Maybe someone rolling their own wedge camper would be interested? or do I just keep it for a spare?

I'm in Vancouver BC (and Kamloops!).

 

Man wish the border wasn't closed and I could visit kamloops and revelstoke.

I think the GFC is not quite the same dimensions of ripcords so someone might be able to use it if they are building the same dimension. However, the main idea of this type of setup was to have a permanent type of opening. I think the GFC platform is 50"x90" where this specs 50"x100".

 

aha!

I talked to a guy here in Vancouver that's building one - but I didn't keep his number.

 

I bought some 3m 1080 car wrap vinyl and wrapped my space frame in all areas seals contact and on surfaces that might see wear from totes and such. Should be nice protection while looking great too.

 

3rd gen folks: TRP side shooters are on sale for $69 right now.

 

Alright where are people getting their toggle closures? I can only find cheap fashion ones.

 

Test fitted my top rack, next step is drill holes for buckhead panel, finish few welds here and there and painting!

 

Did you make the rack?

 

Yeah, Extrusion bars are from T-Nutz, side rails designed in Fusion 360 based on my prinsu rack measuruments, and mounting feet are from Sherpa Equipment Co, each foot is rated for 100lb dynamic weight, i've got 6. Will be bolted on to the rack using rivet nuts

 

wicked cool man

 

Moving onto the side and rear door panels soon...

Anyone ever think of using JB Weld or some type of epoxy to mount the aluminum reinforcement instead of Rivets? It seems like it may be a good option, and produce a cleaner look.

Another option would be to use just a few rivets and JB Weld in combination to ensure it doesn't fail.

 

Shorts sky van (a very durable STOL plane) uses a sealent/adhesive structure of the airplane together along with rivets. The rivets are mostly there to hold things in place while it cures.

I’ve used 5200 in applications similar, I think it would work fine.