How to: DIY Wedge Camper

thats the eff off price, for sure....

If you're in the central FL area I'd say come on down to the makerspace, we've got a 5x10 cnc

 

If anyone’s trying to make an anti condensation mat, I had some left over screen material from screening in the porch over the summer and used it as the mat over the weekend. May be too early to tell, but the only damp section under the mat was where I didn’t have the screen material. If it works, should be a really cheap option.

 

I used Glantz, no account needed and they delivered

 

I’m in the SF Bay Area. Found a cool cnc shop that did all 3 campers for $500. He was more excited to see them finished than I was. Asked for pictures to use on his website when we’re done.

 

I just put in my order with 8020.net and Tnutz.... that stimmy money better come soon. Went with silver to save a little cash and it will go better with my white truck and white side panels I think.

Tnutz was out of stock of the 1.5" external gussets. I was going to order just those to add to the 4.5" extrusion and 1.5" extrusion and skip drilling the raw 4.5" corner gusset

 

I went to a local Sign Fabricator. The important distinction is to find a place that fabricates big assemblies. As opposed to the kind of shop that just prints vinyl graphics. Think ' Big Letters Up in the Air'. The MaxMetal goes by different names. (DiBond, MaxMetal, AluPoly, Etc.) Look up " Piedmont Plastics" they have distributors around the country, and also could probably point you in the direction of a different local distributor if there is not one close to you.

 

Updates:
Lexan Windows:





I Installed 3/16" Tinted Lexan Windows the Other Day. I used a one-piece locking glass seal, that I ordered from McMaster (#3275T22) 25' of it. I ordered the glass seal tool from Amazon. ( A must have, I can't imagine trying to do it without this

$25 LATCHWELL New Ball End Hook Tool for Weatherstrip Install/Windshield Back Glass Window

goofy looking thing.) The only trick is to not make the radius of the curves too tight so that the seal kinks, I just played with it and guessed. I traced the arcs for the initial template off of a 10" Frisbee. I used that cardboard template to make all the parts. The Seal takes a 1/4" of space, so the Holes I cut in the DiBond, are 1/4" bigger than the Lexan. A Fat Chisel tip sharpie is 1/4" wide, so I used one of them to Trace the initial template, onto the DiBond and that gave me the right size enlargement all the way around.

Here are Two Videos of How-To install the Seal. (I used WD-40, and did the install on a flat surface, protected with a moving blanket.)

Chamfering the edges of the Lexan with a file, is the only tip that I can add, based on my experience so far. It helps keep the Lexan from Tearing the edges of the seal. (Ask me how I learned this)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yVUL7Y-FBos&t=86s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EVNH8EWtLwE

 

Very impressive. Very

 

Updates:
Full Size Patterns:

I need to build a BIG Compass, but for now i have a tire.




I have the patterns that @Ripcord made available, and used that information to work out full size mock-ups. I'm going to make some design modifications. (Straight zippers, in more places. I think having triangular windows makes more design sense, given that the sides are also triangular. It also eliminates the headaches so many of you had with sewing curved zippers, for every window.) The base pattern is pretty much set, I'm still tweaking the awning, but it is made from the drops that come off of the main tent pattern, save for the rectangular flap, This means that I don't need to order more fabric. I will sew a strip of velcro all the way around the top edge of the tent, so that the awning will be removable, for high winds, etc. This also gives me the ability to change the design as time goes on, all I have to do is peel off the old awning, and stick a new one up.) The Prop rods, are just some 1/4" steel rod i bent up real quick, for this mock up. I'll get better ones later. Do yourself a favor and buy good masking tape for mock-ups, rather than blue painters tape. More to follow...

 

That’s really coming along. The mock up process is ingenious. I wouldn’t know how to do that but now I get it. I’m going to, well my wife, is going to sew our tent.

 

I did the same method on my V1 camper, a clear piece of sheet (was for painting dropcloth or something) to figure out the dimensions. Great work!

 

Been reading through the last 20 pages now but haven't noticed anyone really talk about the door seal around the doors and how they have made it 100% waterproof.
I have had water intrusion around the hinges, and haven't found a good way (and also looks good) to keep the water out.

Here is how my doors are mounted with the hinges.



I have mounted two seals, one on the door and one inside the hinge.

I did it like this so its a "two-way" seal when the door is closed, but water still figures out to come trough (only droplets, but still enough for stuff to get wet).

My second idea which I have not tested yet is to have a gasket run over the hinge and running a cross the whole length of the door/frame.





Hope some of you can share how you've done it to get it 100% watertight.

 

I did it like your middle picture with a piano hinge along the whole way.
The last option seems like the best option but I know GFC had issues with their old hinge design failing. Poly hinge style

 

And still you have no water coming in?

True, the Polyhinge did not hold up the use, and why i did not go that way.
Their new hinge on the V2 camper is pretty sweet! But very expensive just for one door....

 

@Labbi85 , this was the trick for me. I got quoted some absurd prices ($500+ just for cuts) from the local boutique shops, before calling the big shop near me.

If you see some crazy price estimates on their websites, it may be worth calling them just to check. The place I went with quoted "On average, for smaller signs, we charge about $30.00 per square foot. That price drops to $15.00 per foot for our larger sizes". At those prices, I'd be looking at ~$750 per panel for the floor and roof. After talking on the phone and sending over my cut files, they quoted me $180 per panel (cutting and delivery included).

I think the quotes you see online are for complicated commercial signs (recessed lighting, press-fit lettering, etc.). Our cut files are child's play in comparison to those.

 

I'm considering taking a cue from the AT Overland style windows (on Summit, and Atlas). It would mean no exiting through the tent via ladder (doesn't bother me) and I'll have to take in any panoramic mountain views from outside.

They are velcro style (bug mesh fixed on outside, velcro vinyl window, velcro canvas). Seems like it would cut down on the cost (zipper are $$$) and perhaps make the sewing easier. Could opt out of the vinyl window (need to check prices) if you want to keep it even cheaper.

Anyone considered this?

 

I think the piano hinge is the way to go..

 

If anyone is interested in going this route - good youtube video from a guy sewing windows in his FWC replacement canvas basically details how to do it. Starts at min 3:50. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j_JjgVkDb-Y

 

Hey all, can you open southco-style latches from the inside?

 

If they’re closed from the outside, i don’t think you can open them from the inside.. maybe with some modding it would be possible