How to Drain/Refill Automatic Transmission

Many ways to do it, just that nobody has posted it or shown when their light comes on and when it would blink. Your post and my post should help out others who have a 2.5 gen.

 

Thanks for saving my ass, accidentally drained the trans oil instead of the engine oil (leave me alone I’m learning ok) but was an easy fix thanks to this post, took me about 30 minutes to fix my mistake. Lessons were learned and now I know which to drain and which not to

 

Everyone makes mistakes, and most will not admit to some of their automotive blunders. Props to you for identifying your mistake and correcting it! Glad that the knowledge here helped you out.

I need to do this procedure to my Tacoma. It's been about >60k miles since its last drain & fill.

 

I've got a 2017 2.7L i4 SR Taco, and got the impression that I need to change the ATF...there's not a dipstick for it and the service manual's maintenance punchlist doesn't mention flush/drain/fill...does this year & config have 'lifetime' ATF?

 

"Lifetime" ATF is a farce. There are no fluids contained in your vehicle that will maintain their properties forever. They all need to be changed.

Your transmission is what is referred to as a sealed transmission, so there's no dipstick. You still should drain and fill at a specific interval though, somewhere around 30-60k intervals is what most will do.

 

I wouldn't go by "lifetime." You may want to check out the 3rd gen forum about this service for your 2017.

 

Thanks AZOverland & BlkDakDave, that's what I suspected...I know of other equipment e.g. air compressors which claim 'lifetime' oil or fluid...doesn't add up with regard to physics (almost sounds like a lil 'planned obsolescence'). I was told by a local independent shop which I've taken multiple vehicles to over the years, that this Taco never needed ATF change. I've seen the tutorials for how to drain & pump 3rd Gens, will get it done.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3rd-gen-diy-maintenance-quick-reference.406712/

 

Ok I could only make it through 30ish pages before having to ask. I have a 2012 Off-Road and I did the entire process but got hung up at the A/T Temp mode. I got it to illuminate after shift 6 into N but never again going into P. I did it maybe 12 times and never got it to illuminate going into P. Still ran the truck in idle….for 40 mins…here’s the variable though. Its 26F out. (MN )

anyone else get the A/T Temp to come on after not seeing it in park. I also left it in neutral once but didnt do anything either.

thanks ya’ll. I’ll give detailed writeup of the woes and wins after I get the overflow temp level thing figured out.

 

In my experience it takes a very long time to warm up just idling when its cold out. You might try going for a ~10 minute drive before hand, then getting into temp check mode.

 

I’ve read that in very cold weather it can take at least 45 minutes for the transmission to get to check temp.

 

Aside from driving, as @SR-71A mentioned, block off the airflow through the transmission cooler.

Instead of driving, sometimes I will put the transmission in gear, and while holding the brake, rev the engine a little. This can generate heat in the fluid from the torque converter slipping/spinning/doing what TQs do.

 

I'm about to perform the ATF flush/fill for the 1st time and constantly read about the difficulties getting the truck into AT Temp Check mode using the jumper wire method. And also about the length of time it takes while doing it "blindly".

I do have an Ultragauge and can display trans temp and tq temp.

@hoffengineering and everyone else,
How confident/accurate would you say it is....to do the ATF fluid level check based purely on the UG trans temps showing 113deg?

Gut tells me this method is more accurate than an IR thermometer on the pan.

 

Sure will, but I think putting it in drive will cancel the temp check mode. Based on conversations earlier in the thread. Havent confirmed that myself

 

Drive first, then enter temp check mode. You just want to give it a head start. Driving did cancel for me, but not sure what exactly cancels it. I shifted into drive after it was in temp mode and it was still there, but drove around the neighborhood and it cancelled.

 

For context, I've never done it by UG alone. I have drained/filled my transmission 3 times so far, and each time I've verified the trans temp with the jumper wire and dash light. Personally, I would have to do it a few more times to get some more data points to see how well the UG readout aligns with the dash light. That being said, I would expect it to be more reliable than an IR thermometer on the pan.

 

Just did the 1st ATF pan flush/fill since my ownership of my truck. Process was insanely simple and just a notch above an engine or gear oil change.

1. I realized that I couldn't do the jumper wire method and also monitor the AT temp via Ultragauge because I didn't have a Y-spliiter. Because of @hoffengineering 's advice, I knew I couldn't rely on the UG AT temp output because of the lack of adequate data to prove that it was an acceptable method. So, I had to do the jumper wire way.
2. The jumper wire method was simple. Everything that the video on page1 from the OP was accurate and true. Jumped the pins on the ODBII connector, move the AT shifter, dash lights started flashing, do the P-N sequence, AT dash light lit up for 2 seconds, put it in P, AT dash light lit up again.... and was in ATF Temp Check mode.
3. Took about 30 mins for the ATF dash light to light up and for me to drain the overflow. Ambient temp was in the low-mid 60s on a sunny N. CA morning.
4. Drained the overflow to a trickle, verified the AT dash light was solid still. Pulled the jumper wire and plugged in my Ultragauge. AT Temp read 102.9 degrees. (I'm sooo glad I asked @hoffengineering about this!)
5. Road tested and transmission feels good/normal.

I drained about 2 quarts from the pan. (I was expecting closer to 2.5-3 quarts based on what I've read.)
I filled with 4 quarts of Toyota WS along with 2oz of Lubeguard Instant Shutter Fix.
After the process above, about 1.25 quarts overflowed out.


@gearcruncher Thanks for your advice on using Toyota WS for this instead of an aftermarket equivalent. Your answer made perfect sense.

 

Thanks dude, took me awhile to do but it def beats the stealership.

 

Here’s my method after 12 years of ownership and multiple changes.
First few times I went into temp check mode, jumped pins, ect.

Now 3.5 is quarts comes out, and 3.5 quarts goes in. I do this with warm fluid.

Buy a paint bucket that has measurements in quarts on the side to know how much is coming out. In 225k never changed the filter. Or dropped the pan. No issues.

Now go enjoy your day.

 

I do similar

First time, jump the obd and get your trickle just right with the engine running.

Next time….. get 2 one gallon milk jugs. Drain pan in 1st jug. Mark fluid level with sharpie.

Put Full jug next to empty jug and fill with new fluid to match old fluid level.

use 4’ vinyl tubing with funnel, and fill through engine bay. Done.

I do it first thing in the morning when the fluid in the pan and the new fluid in the garage is the same temp.