How to Drain/Refill Automatic Transmission

The temp gun at the pan method really needs to be dropped entirely because the OBD method is the accurate way and therefore the only way.

Not sure why people are so hung up about jumping the OBD wires.

 

Wow, Fortech! Awesome write-up! I have a 2009 Taco Prerunner 2WD - AT (TRD Sport/SR5). I just replaced the output shaft seal with the updated/new seal as I had slight leaking of tranny fluid out of the output shaft. The new seal that Toyota released is a double lip seal. Way better than the original seal! I don't think I lost a ton of tranny fluid, but will be checking the level in the next day or so. I will report back on whether my AT Temp gauge lights up or not doing this procedure of jumping the OD diagnostics. Hopefully it does!

I have read that some people add an additional 0.1 to 0.4 quarts of WS tranny fluid after allowing the tranny fluid to come to a slow trickle out of the overflow tube. Meaning, the fluid level is checked, the overflow tube is closed back up after slowing to a trickle, and then an additional 0.1 to 0.4 quarts of fluid are added back into the system. Is anyone doing this?? And is it completely necessary? I read through many comments, but couldn't get through them all!

Thanks in advance

 

there are several guys on tundra world that have added 1/2 quart extra with no ill effect. Some reported better shifts. I know John over at IPT trans even said he adds extra fluid after a valve body rebuilds cause he feels like the factory level is a little low.

 

Is it still a potato if I spell it potatoe or tomato tomatoe? An a750 is an a750 bottom line. Take the transfer case off an a750f and replace with a tail shaft, you've got an a750e. Remove the tail shaft on a a750e and replace with a transfer case, now you've got an a750f.

The only variable that would cause a change in fluid capacity and temperature would be the presence of a tow package which adds the external atf cooler which is just below the AC condenser mounted to the core support.
https://shop.ukrtrans.biz/wp-content/uploads/catalogs/A750E.pdf

 

Finally got around to do the filter and the flush, happy I took of the pan to clean the magnets, the filter had filth on it not sure what it is but probably the same crap that the magnets accumulated?Using the sprayer method rly made this easier, the old fluid other than the residue looked pretty good, completed the flush with 13 liters of atf.
The weather is getting cold here in North Vancouver so it took forever to get up to temp at 3 celsius, I think like 30 +min, ended up overfilling it so around 700ml came out the level check hole. Thanks everyone who posted tips and suggestion how to do this easier !

 

I just checked on my 2009 Tacoma pre-runner 4.0 L 2WD AT And it does in fact have an AT temp check light on the dash. The first time I tried getting it into temp check mode, it didn’t work. I think I was cycling through neutral and drive to slowly maybe? I tried it again and sped it up slightly and it worked perfectly.

 

I added an extra 1/2 Qt of fluid after determining the nominal level in my 2006 4L V6. After I drove the truck (initially with the spec ATF level). The trans did not shift as well as before. Especially reverse (from a cold start); it felt like I had the brakes on. I then added a 1/2 Qt WS (above nominal) and the problems evaporated. With all that said, more ATF than specified risks a number of problems: poor lubrication, foaming, overheating etc. Some here have reported problems with just slightly more than spec so beware. I have been fine for 500 miles now of city and highway driving since my flush. A benefit of a little extra is that you can check it later and there is a reservoir of fluid to test with. Imagine you suspect a leak but everything is OK. The pan 0.1% low (i.e. everything is fine) but you don't know because nothing came out after opening the check port. In that case you would have to add fluid just to see that everything is fine. A little extra in there lets you check it later without the hassle.

 

Did this today, worked perfectly, no issues with getting into temp checked mode.

 

So I just realized that I didn’t circulate the fluid through the tranny before putting it in temp check mode, how critical is this? I did on the first and second drain and fill, but did not on the final one.

 

I wouldn't worry about it. It circulated for a bit while waiting for the proper check temp

 

Followed this procedure on my 2015 Prerunned with transmission cooler. Put a strap on temp prob on cooler line at bottom of transmisson. During the test when the temp light came on the line temp read 100 F and when the light started to blink it read 115.5 degrees. So reading the temp on the outside is 15 degrees below internal oil temp. Also the two gaskets listed for the transmission are for drain and overflow plug The fill plug takes an o ring that is special order thru dealer. Also 15 ft lbs torque is enough for an o ring In fact 15 ft lbs is fine for all three (no leaks) Sincerely Tim

 

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A tip. Instead of a wire to jump OBDII pins #4 and #13, use a metal paper clip.

It slips right into the OBD with a nice solid engagement. Also, you can avoid hunting for a small enough wire to fit.

 

@TDG6701 good info. Do you have the PN# for that o-ring that is a dealer only item?

 

Did not replace the 0 ring it was in good shape. I did replace the other seals. Did this drain and fill twice at 30000 and now 60000 as most of these miles i was towing a camper.

 

Just another heads up .
Your engine must be running while you have the overflow plug removed for level check .
I know the author has this part of the procedure highlighted on the first page , but it needs more attention as guys are accidently skipping this part of the procedure .

 

Funny how many threads on here where people dont read this first page

 

Not 100% sure, but I suspect the tranny will "suspend" fluid in the channels and Tq converter while idling.

I won't state how my suspicion came about.....lets just say I did something not too bright.....and leave it at that.

 

You are correct .

When the truck is at idle , the transmission pump is pumping and charges the torque converter and hydraulic circuits with pressurized fluid .

When the truck is turned off the transmission pump stops turning and that pressurized fluid drains back into the pan . If you pull the check fluid plug at this time , all that fluid that was charging the torque converter and hydraulic circuits is going to drain out . You will be at very minumum 3 to 4 quarts low

 

ahhh......my suspicion confirmed.

Yep, I used my stupid pill prescription.