How to: Extra D-Rings in Bed

Yeah, the backing plate stopped spinning. I had another person hold the backing plate as I tightened from the top. It should be completely tight and the D-ring should be able to rotate without the backplate spinning.

 

Bump. I ordered the factory D-Rings and installed them today in the sides of the front of the bed as specified in the instructions. I was happy with the default location, so didn't see any need to change it.

BUT - the backing plates with their welded nuts are NOT tapped all the way through - they're designed to stop before reaching the end. (WHY? I DON'T KNOW) Anyway, to mount them successfully now, you either need to tap out the factory nuts, and I don't have a tap that size, or buy a couple extra fender washers to space out the D ring from the inside of the bed so it gets tight before you run out of threads.

Just thought I'd warn folks doing this simple mod to pick up a couple extra washers at the hardware store before starting the job.

 

too sketchy for me with the plastic bed even with the backing plate. I put them in the bed bolt locations. I could lift the truck up with a crane by the hoops I put in. To each their own, nice work on the write up. Just don't know if our shittly plastic bed, or aluminum for that matter, in that location, can really get the job done.

 

Anyone got any pics of these on an access cab?

would be much appreciated... or i might be a first... lol

 

All the beds are the same...besides being LB or SB.

 

no, they are not.

The short bed ends at the wheel wells. the standard size bed on the normal and access cab extends past the wheel well and that is why i was asking if anyone has done it yet.

Looking to see what (if anyone has done it) they have drilled into to do this on the normal size bed.

 

I would be far too paranoid to use the plastic bed to bolt to. I looked up under there and there isn't a big flat place to back against. The rear tie downs go into metal, not bed.

I lose a few inches using the bed bolts but they're attached to chassis You could probably lift the truck with them.
Just got some d rings and drilled them 1/8" over and installed under the bed bolts.

They don't pivot, but they're strong enough not to need to. Probably going to throw some on all the bed bolts since they fit so nicely into the little space around the bolt.

I guess it depends on what you're doing with them and how good you are at securing loads.. but not something i'm going to try.

 

I have an AC cab with the long bed. I installed D-rings in the corners.
I ordered the stock ones from Toyota, They come with a backing plate. Installed almost ayear ago with no problems. There is a good write up on this site.

 

Yeah, that's the difference in the bed, I didn't want the corner to be a bad place in the longer bed since it's not offset cause the wheel well.

 

anyone got a picture of the back spacing? i took off 2 D rings off a wrecked tacoma at my friend's shop and i didnt notice any back spacing.

 

+1 what he said. I got my factory D-rings and only one set had the nut threaded far enough for the D-ring and backing plate to clamp tightly to my bed. I ended up taking a dremel and cutting about 1cm from the bolt. The hardware is great quality otherwise and I have not experienced any issues at all. I installed in the same location as the instructions specified (on the side, about 70mm from the front and bottom).

 

Alright. Not trying to thread jack or revive a dead thread. I thought we had a thread floating around about guys adding extra d-rings to the already existing torx bolts OVER the bed mat so that no one would steal the mat and obviously extra d-rings.

Since I can't find the thread, would this be do-able if I am able to find another torx bolt about another half ich longer than the originals? That would it would still be able to be bolted down all the way but also have the extra length for the extra washer and d-ring.

What do you guys think?