How to Install a Viper 5704 Alarm/ Remote Start

Post 1 of 4 – General Information

I installed a Viper 5704 alarm/remote start in my 2005 Double Cab Prerunner and thought I'd share how to do it with TW. I’ve never installed a system like this before so I did a ton of research both here at TacomaWorld and over at the12volt.com. This install takes a long time. I did it over two days, but it probably took me around eight hours combined. It’s quite the undertaking and is complicated if you’re unfamiliar with these types of things. This write up is also very long and very detailed. So be prepared. But the end result is worth it.

If you have a 2005-2008 Tacoma, you can follow this exactly. If you have 2009-2013 Tacoma, DO NOT USE BULLDOG SECURITY'S DIAGRAM. Another TW member messed up his truck using their diagram. Instead, go here. Then scroll down and choose your truck's year from the column on the right.

*Viper 5608v info: Another member on here, mbroughton02, is awesome and used this guide to install a Viper 5608v on his truck. He used a PKALL bypass as well. He made a version of the reference sheet and I attached it to the bottom of this post. According to him, you should be able to use it and the rest of this guide to install a Viper 5608v on a 2005-2008 Tacoma. If you have questions about installing a 5608v, feel free to ask them on here but I might direct you his direction.

There are multiple ways to install an alarm/remote start system. This is the way I chose to do it. If I did something one way, and you know a better/easier way, please share it with the rest of the class


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IF YOU INSTALL THIS ON YOUR OWN, THE WARRANTY IS VOID. VIPER (a.k.a. DIRECTED ELECTRONICS) WILL ONLY HONOR WARRANTIES ON PRODUCTS INSTALLED BY ONE OF THEIR CERTIFIED INSTALLERS. IF YOU WANT A WARRANTY, HAVE IT INSTALLED BY A PROFESSIONAL.

Please note that I am not liable for any damage you cause to yourself or your truck while installing an alarm/remote start system on your own. If you aren't mechanically inclined, don't have all of the necessary tools, or just don't feel comfortable cutting into your truck’s existing wiring HAVE A PROFESSIONAL DO THE JOB INSTEAD.

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GENERAL INFORMATION

• Watch this. It’s a video from Bulldog Security on how to install a remote start. Although it’s a pretty basic video, it gives you the general idea of the process involved.
• I didn’t remove the driver’s seat, but it would have made things easier. Four bolts and one or two wire harnesses. You should take the seat out.
• Soldering your connections is the way to go.
• Once you get in and start connecting wires, be careful of the bright yellow wires and wire looms. These are for the airbag.
• If you're not sure if you need a bypass or not, look at your dash next to the clock. If you have the blinking light like in the picture below, you need a bypass. Regular cab, 5-lug, base models do not have a chipped key, and therefore, do not need a bypass (Thanks for the help on this Rich91710).

• If you choose to go with the same bypass that I did, you’ll need to have someone install the appropriate firmware on the bypass. Only authorized installers with access to iDataLink’s firmware database can install the firmware. The shop I bought my bypass from did this for me.
• I found this very helpful. It’s a write-up about testing wires for a remote start install.
• I’ve attached several documents to this post which you’ll need to install and program this system. So make sure to download these:

• The Viper 5704 Installation Guide; which they don’t give you when you buy the system.
• A wiring diagram for 2005 – 2008 Tacomas. For 2009 - 2013 Tacomas, go here (scroll down towards the bottom of the page and select the correct year for your truck).
• A spreadsheet I created with info including which Viper wire to connect to which Tacoma wire. I refer to this as the Reference Sheet.
• An install guide for the bypass; also does not come with the unit when you buy it.

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Components/Parts Needed:

• Viper 5704 alarm/remote start
• iDataLink ADS-TB bypass
• One 30/40 amp SPST automotive relay like this.
• Four 1 amp diodes like this.
• Two 20 amp inline fuse holders like
  14AWG Wire In-line Car Automotive Mini Blade Fuse Holder Fuseholder 20A
  this.
• One 20 amp fuse like
  $8 Install Bay ATC20-25 - 20 Amp ATC Fuse (25 Pack)
  this.
• Seven or eight feet of extra wire (I used 18 gauge, but that’s what I had lying around)
• A bag of zip ties

Tools:

• Digital Multimeter (DMM)
• Wire cutter
• Wire stripper
• Socket wrench
• Metric socket set
• Philips head screw driver
• Flat head screw driver
• Soldering iron
• Solder
• Electrical tape

 

1. Study, Study, Study
Don’t just print everything out and go into the garage and start. You need to have a solid understanding of the entire process so if you run into any problems you’ll know where to turn first. I’m more than willing to help you with problems that may arise, but I’ve only done this once so I might not be able to help. Figuring this stuff out is half the fun anyway!

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2. Cut Off or Bundle Up Unused Wires
Before you get all up in your truck's business, use the wiring guide for your truck and figure out which wires you won't be using. Bundle them together to keep them from getting in the way of your install. A lot of people will cut the unused wires to a 6-inch stub, but I was afraid I might accidentally cut the wrong wire. I waited until the end to cut the unused wires.

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3. Wire the Relay to the H2 Harness (There’s a diagram of this on the Reference Sheet)

• Take some extra wire (6-ish inches) and solder it to pin 86 of the relay.
• Take another piece of extra wire (6-ish inches) and solder it to pin 87 of the relay.
• Now solder the 20 amp inline fuse to those two wires.
• Solder the Viper’s H2/18 (violet/yellow) wire to pin 85.
• Use another piece of extra wire to solder the the diode to pin 86 of the relay. MAKE SURE TO PUT THE DIODE IN THE CORRECT WAY. The diode has a stripe on one side of it. Solder the side WITH the stripe to pin 86. The side WITHOUT the stripe will connect to the Viper’s H2/18 (violet/yellow).
• Solder some extra wire (12-ish inches) to pin 30 of the relay; for later use.
• Here's a diagram of how the relay should be wired:

• Wrap each of the connections in electrical tape.
• If you bought a relay with a pin 87a, wrap this pin also because it won't be used.

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4. Wire the Diodes to H2/6 (Door Trigger Wire)

If you have a four doors, follow this exactly, If you have two doors, you can ignore the part about the rear doors.

• Take some extra wire and cut six, 6-inch sections (the length doesn’t have to be exact).
• Take three of these wires and twist one end of each wire together.
• Solder this twisted connection to the Viper’s H2/6 (green) wire.
• Solder a diode to each of these three wires. MAKE SURE TO PUT THE DIODE IN THE CORRECT WAY. The diode has a stripe on one side of it. The side WITH the stripe will connect to the Tacoma’s door wires. The side WITHOUT the stripe will connect to the H2/6 wire. Here's a diagram of what it should look like:

• Once all three diodes are soldered in place, double check their orientation to make sure they’re in the correct way.
• Take the other three 6-inch sections of extra wire and solder them to the diodes. Make sure these short pieces of wire are soldered to the side of the diode WITH the stripe.

• Tape everything up with electrical tape.

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5. Splicing Wires Together
This is how I made all connections from here on out unless otherwise noted. I spliced them using the method below and then soldered them together.

• Remove a small section of insulation from Tacoma’s existing wire

• Use one of the probes on DMM (or a small screwdriver) to create a gap between the strands of wire.

• Push Viper’s wire through the gap of the Tacoma’s wire.

• Wrap the Viper’s wire around the entire Tacoma wire.

• Solder the connection. I didn't get a picture of this, sorry. But just imagine the picture above with solder on the connection. Beautiful right?
• Wrap electrical tape (or heat shrink if possible) around all exposed wires and secure electrical tape with small zip ties.

 

6. Remove the lower dash pieces.

• Remove the threshold. (I’m sure this has a different name, but I call it the threshold.) Just get your fingers under it and pull straight up.

• Remove the plastic footrest. Get your fingers behind it and pull straight back.

• Unscrew the plastic bolt from behind the plastic footrest.

• Remove the kick panel. When looking at the picture below, you’ll want to pull the kick panel in the direction of the camera.

• Remove the two 10mm bolts on the lower dash and then pull the lower dash piece off. There are a couple of plastic clips that hold it on. Just like on the threshold, gentle tugging and prying will get it off.

• Unplug any wiring harnesses from the lower dash. Also remove the hood release lever. The whole lever comes out of the lower dash piece.

• Remove the three 10mm bolts that hold on the metal steering column cover.

• Use a Philips screwdriver to remove the two screws on the plastic lower steering column cover. There are also some plastic clips that you’ll have to gently pull and pry on.

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7. Locate the areas you’ll need to connect to.

• Ignition Switch Harness and Keysense Harness:

• 7-Pin Harness Behind Ignition Switch (I had to unplug the keysense harness and two other harnesses to access this 7-pin harness)

• Fuse Box. There are multiple locations on the fuse box that you’ll need to connect to. The two diagrams below are also in the Reference Sheet (in case they're too blurry for you to read here).

• Lock and unlock wires. I forgot to get a picture of this, but luckily someone else on TacomaWorld has a picture of this spot! The wiring diagram I downloaded listed a 10-pin plug in the driver’s kick panel. I couldn’t find which harness to use so I just tapped into the wires as they came into the truck from the door. There are two bundles of wires coming into the cabin of the truck from the driver’s door. In both bundles, there are Green/Black and Purple wires. I found one Green/Black wire and tested it by using the key in the driver’s door to unlock the door. The DMM didn’t show any change. I checked the Green/Black wire in the other bundle and there was a voltage change. So I used the Green/Black wire that had the voltage change as well as the Purple wire in that same bundle of wires.

 

Before connecting to any of the Tacoma’s wires it is absolutely essential to test every wire with a Digital Multimeter. Although I’ve shown which wires to use, I’m human and make mistakes. I could have made a mistake anywhere in this process. If you connect to the wrong wire you could cause serious damage to the alarm, your vehicle, or yourself!

In the Reference Sheet, I’ve included details about voltage and polarity for all of the wires being used to install this particular setup. Again, this was in my truck, not your truck. So you need to check your own wires.

8. Connect all the wires.

• Connect the following wires to the Tacoma’s white/blue 12 volt constant wire as per the Reference Sheet:

• H1/1
• H3/6
• H3/9

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• Connect the other H3 harness wires as described in the reference sheet.
• Mount the siren in the engine compartment. (I put mine above the driver’s side wheel well, behind the fuse box)
• Mount the hood pin switch. (I put mine next to the headlight at the front of the truck)
• Run the red and black wires from the siren through the existing grommet behind the parking brake.
• Run the Viper's H2/17 gray hood pin switch wire into the engine compartment through the same grommet. Connect this wire to the hood pin switch.
• Connect the siren’s red wire to the Viper’s brown H1/3 wire. The black wire from the siren needs to be grounded. (I grounded all of ground wires to the same spot and waited until the very end to do this)
• Connect the other H1 harness wires as described in the Reference Sheet.
• Remove the fuse box.

• Unplug all the harnesses from the fuse box. Don’t worry, each harness is unique and will only fit into one spot. So plugging everything back in isn’t difficult.
• There are three 10mm bolts that you must remove to access the back side of the fuse box. It is easier if you remove the fourth bolt that holds the lower mounting arm in place. I forgot to get a picture of the bolts, but in the diagram of the fuse box (Figure 1 on the Reference Sheet) I pointed these bolts out.
• Unplug the harnesses from the back of the fuse box.

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• With the fuse box is out of the way, connect Door Lock Harness as described in the Reference Sheet.
• Plug the wiring harnesses into the back of the fuse box but don’t bolt it back in place yet.
• Connect just one of the H2/6 wires with a diode into the appropriate location as described in the Reference Sheet. Make sure to look at Figure 2 for the location of this wire.
• Bolt the fuse box back into place.
• Plug in the wiring harnesses to the front of the fuse box.
• Connect the remaining H2 wires as described in the Reference Sheet. Make sure to look at Figure 1 for the location of needed wires.
• Connect the wires coming from pin 86 and pin 87 with the inline 20 amp fuses to the 12 volt constant wire on the fuse box. (6-pin plug, pin 6)
• Some wires for the bypass get connected to the same place as some of the Viper’s wires. If you haven’t already connected any of the wires from the bypass connect them now as described in the Reference Sheet.
• Connect the Viper's antenna. I put mine on the windshield, behind the rear-view mirror and ran the wire above the headliner and down the A-pillar on the driver's side. You don't have to remove the headliner to do this; you can just stuff the wire in from the front.
• Ground all of the ground wires.

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9. Program the system BEFORE STARTING YOUR TRUCK

• Before you start putting everything back together, program the Viper brain and make sure everything works.
• Programming directions are in one of the attachments in the first post of this thread and is titled “Viper 5704 Installation Guide.”
• Program the Tach wire. Set the Viper to TACH MODE.
• By default, the Viper is set to MANUAL TRANSMISSION MODE. If you have an automatic you'll need to change to AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION MODE.
• Program the locks (optional). If you don’t do this step, pushing the unlock button once on the Viper’s remote will unlock all of the doors at the same time. If you do complete this step, you will have the same functionality as you’re OEM remote (i.e. push unlock once to unlock driver’s door, push unlock twice to unlock all doors). To set this up, set the Viper's brain to DOUBLE PULSE MODE.
• Look through the setup menus and see if there are any other settings you want to change.

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10. Check that everything works

• Before you start cleaning everything up and putting your truck back together, make sure everything works. When you test the the alarm, stuff a rag in the alarm's horn. You'll save your ears from ringing and your neighbors from wringing your neck. (that joke works better if you say it out loud) You’ll want to check the following:

• Remote start
• Door locks
• Alarm sensors (i.e. doors and hood)
• Additional alarm sensors you may have chosen to install (e.g. window break sensor, tilt sensor, etc.)

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• Adjust alarm sensors as necessary. The shock sensor that comes with the unit, as well as any additional sensors you may have chosen to install, have adjustable sensitivities. Now is an excellent time to fine tune them. To test the shock sensor, you will need to mount it in a place where it can pick up vibrations easily. Make make sure to mount it, and other sensors, in a place where you can reach it so you can adjust their sensitivity. You'll probably only need to adjust the sensitivity once or twice so it doesn't need to be "easily" accessible, but easy enough you can get to it without too much hassle. For instance, my shock sensor is only accessible with the lower dash removed. But once its off I can adjust my shock sensor.
• A special note for those that install a glass break sensor. You don't have to break your window to test it. Putting keys in glass jar and shaking the jar is a good way to test it.

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11. Clean everything up

• Mount the Viper’s brain somewhere safe and secure.
• Mount the bypass unit somewhere safe and secure.
• Mount the Viper's antenna (I attached mine to the windshield behind the rear view mirror).
• Mount any additional sensors you may have chosen to buy and install (e.g. glass break sensor, proximity sensor, tilt sensor, etc.).
• Route all the wires appropriately and zip tie them into place. Some people like to wrap the bundles of wire in electrical tape. Others prefer to use those flexible plastic tubes (like what is already in the truck). And some people just zip tie the bundles together. Whatever you do, make sure none of the wires have any tension on them and that the wires are not going to interfere with any moving parts (e.g. parking brake pedal, steering column, etc.).

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12. Put everything back together.

• Once everything is in its place, put all of the dash pieces back together.

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13. Enjoy!

Enjoy never getting into a cold truck in the winter and a hot truck in the summer!

 

This is an awesome guide. I wish we had the same year trucks :,( Im going to use this as much as possible though and I really appreciate it! I am thinking I will but a Fortin Key-Override-All for my bypass module ( I have a 2010 Taco). It comes pre programmed. I've already learned a ton from this stuff... Question though, what is the relay wiring for in the very beginning?

 

Excellent write up.

Rep coming your way for the good work.

 

To be honest, I was told to put a relay in so I did. From what I understand though, a relay is just a device that allows you to control a high-powered component, by using a low-powered switch. In this application, I think the relay allows the Viper unit (low-power switch) to control the engine's starter (high-lowered component). So if a relay wasn't used, the starter wouldn't get enough power.

If you want to read more about relays, go here and/or here.

 

Thanks Jones!

 

Riverdog rulez

 

Wow this is awesome. Thanks! I'm no stranger to wiring and electronics but I've had my remote start for 2 years now and haven't had the balls to install it. I think you've given me a little bit of inspiration to get it done. I like your idea with the splices too, although I will likely solder.

 

Wonderful job! Thanks so much!!

 

I'm starting to notice a trend of some really, really intelligent people from Portland... I've got to find a few more people to send rep to so I can send you more.

Excellent post, although I wish you wouldn't have given up on soldering, it really is the best method, and is worth spending the time to do it properly.

 

Do it!!!!

 

Thanks Turbo. I'm convinced Portlanders are really, really intelligent people. If you install an alarm/remote start let me know. I'd be happy to help.

 

Oh shit... didnt realize you were from Portland. Maybe I'll hit you up next time I drive through.... I'm a native Astorian

 

That is an amazing write up. Make this a sticky!

 

A small note: I read in the comments on the Youtube video of the Bulldog installation that you should have the 12v constant run from the battery, however Im not sure what exactly that would require.

Another thing: I went over to the Auto hobby Shop here on base, there are full time mechanics that work there and they said that they keep getting cars in there that the Code reader can't read because the local installer taps into the power line for it... Or something to that effect (they arent electrical guys and Im not really either). The guys there also said they wouldnt help me with my install because they didn't know how! haha.. So Its me and this guide. Hopefully I can figure out the differences between RiverDog's 2005 and my 2010.

 

First: Great job on doing your homework for this install! I almost didn't post a guide here because I was afraid someone would just follow the guide, mess up their truck or themselves, and blame me or TW. It helps a lot if you have a pretty good understanding of the process. And it seems like that's what you're doing right now.

Second: If you're thinking you need to run a wire from the battery to the inside of your truck, you would be wrong because that is unnecessary. In fact, there are several lines already running into your truck that are 12v constants. There are two 12v constant wires that run to your ignition switch. To install the alarm, you just need to connect the appropriate alarm wire to the appropriate 12v constant wires in the truck. I ended up splicing into three different 12v constant wires in my truck (two in the ignition switch harness, and one at the fuse box). I did this to spread out the draw of the electricity, rather than drawing too much electricity from one 12v constant. When I was researching, I asked one of the professional installers on the12volt.com, who responded to my post about this install, about spreading out the load to multiple 12v constant wires. He said it was a good idea so I went with it and now everything is working well.

I was in the same boat you're in just a couple of weeks ago. I even went back and forth over whether I wanted to install it myself or pay someone over $400 to do it for me. I don't know any mechanics but I did go onto the12volt.com's forum and asked the guys there some questions. They were really, really helpful.

I don't have a code reader so I don't if there are any issues with reading codes. I didn't splice into the OBD II 12v constant wires so I don't think there would be any issues like those mechanics were describing. I don't even know if the OBD II wire harness on our truck has a 12v constant wire or not. All I can say is everything is working like it should.

 

Well I'm glad its all working great man, that is really good news. I'm going to be doing mine in a couple of weeks and hopefully by then I am ready and have it all mapped out. I love your reference sheet and I'm trying to make one for the 2010 so I have it when I'm in the shop. I am a visual learner though, so I might try to make a wiring diagram with all the connections showing me where all these flipping wires go and why they go there...

You said you split up the power draw, what were the 3 things drawing power? The central alarm unit, and the bypass module and one other?

What I gathered from the comment on YouTube is not that you have to run power from the battery, it was that it is good practice to. He also said solder everything and heatshrink. Its really just personal preference though.

 

Sorry, there are not three components drawing power. There are five wires combined from the alarm unit and the bypass that need to connect to a 12v constant wire. I split up those five wires to three different 12v constant wires in the truck. Make sense?

That makes sense about running new wires I guess. I agree with you on the soldering and heatshrink. It's a better connection than twisting wires. I just haven't soldered in years and didn't like the way my first few soldering connections turned out. I didn't want to mess anything up, and a lot of other people twist wires, so I switched to twisting wires.

If you want, PM me your email address and I'll send you my Reference Sheet in a word doc format so you can just edit the word doc rather than making a new reference sheet. I couldn't upload a large word doc, but I could upload a large pdf.