How to Install a Viper 5704 Alarm/ Remote Start

No computer needed. You wire everything up in the truck and follow the instructions. It involved holding a button on the bypass and inserting and removing the truck's key from the ignition a number of times. Can't remember exactly but there was no "flashing" the bypass first.

 

OK, just ordered the

$150 Viper 4806v 2-Way LED Remote Start System

Viper 4806v remote start only, and the PKALL bypass... lets hope i dont have to post here too much other than to say it works! Im well versed in car audio, but never thought i would get into installing a remote start. But, my total came to 187 on Sonicelectronix, and Best Buy's total was 507 before tax. No brainer to me.

 

How is the install different for the newer models? Just different wire colors?

 

I know for a fact that the wires in the ignition are different. See this post:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...arm-remote-start.252032/page-15#post-10371821

 

Looking at viper's website, I'm guessing that the

$150 4806v 2-Way LED Remote Start System

4806v is the same as the 5806v minus the alarm. When you get it, there will hopefully be a "quick reference install guide" in the box. The first thing I would do if I were you is compare that to my version of the reference sheet found in the first post in this thread, since you'll be using the PKALL bypass. Obviously a lot of wires will be non-existent due to not having the alarm, but look for and resolve discrepancies on the purpose of each viper wire that the 4806v does have. I would not assume anything.

Take your time, check as many wires as possible with a meter, don't skimp on the soldering, and wrap your connections in quality (i.e. 3M Super 33) electrical tape, or, when possible, heat shrink them. Not to brag, but my truck started right up on the first try, and every feature of the alarm worked perfectly. So this is very doable if you're careful.

 

All great advice... one thing i have been wondering is the best method to strip the jacket off the wire without cutting or damaging the wire itself? There might be a way i dont know about, other than using a size larger on a standard wire stripper....

 

I take the wire strippers and make 2 cuts through the insulation about a centimeter apart. Then I take a knife and remove a chunk of insulation away between the cuts. It only takes one pass with a sharp knife. After that you can peel the rest off with your finger, and then you are left with a 1cm long section of bare copper.

 

Important update: There is a slight error in the reference sheet for the 5806v found on the first post in this thread. The driver door wire needs to intercept the "Factory Alarm Arm" wire coming from the viper, NOT "Factory Alarm Disarm". The diagram below, which has been posted a few times, is correct, but the spreadsheet is not. I am attaching the corrected spreadsheet.

 

Programming the bypass is basically, turni

It doesn't need to do this on the 2014. I wired mine up per the viper instructions and everything works, including the auto off lights when my door opens.

 

Right, but that isn't exactly what this is for. So let's say you have the truck running with the headlights on, and then you shut the truck off, open the door and the headlights turn off. Now if you remote start the truck later, the headlights will turn back on, because the switch is still on. And then lets say the remote start either times out, or you shut the truck off using the remote. The headlights would stay on unless you do the factory alarm arm to the driver door wire as per the diagram. Unless Toyota installed some sort of timer in the newer models. Right?

 

Oh I get you now. I never just let my truck run that long and I also usually shut my headlights off. I guess some people will need it if they have it set on a timer to turn on during the night.

So, the wiring doesn't exactly need to do what you listed if you are like me. I only remote start a few minutes before I'm about to get in my truck.

 

OK so I just installed a

$150 Viper 4806v 2-Way LED Remote Start System

Viper 4806v 2-way remote start (no security) in my 05 taco and everything worked first try. The PKALL bypass worked exactly as it should, and was super simple. HUGE shout out to mbroughton02, i got lost a couple times, sent him a message and he replied to them within 20 minutes.... pretty damn awesome.

To those doing what ive done, the instructions in this post can be used but you must translate a little bit. Most of the wire colors are the same on the viper units discussed in this thread vs. the 4806v, but their locations are not.

Other differences are:

There is no starter kill built into the 4806v. There is a green wire that the alarm systems have that the remote start only models do not. You can make your own starter kill with a relay if you wish, there are instructions on 12volt.com, but i didnt follow it. Yet. The instructions of the alarm systems will tell you to cut the Tacoma starter wire, and connect the green wire to the key side and the purple wire to the car side. But on the remote start only model you just tap into the Tacoma wire with the purple wire. This method works, but if you remote start the car, then jump in and turn the key past ACC, itll turn the starter and youll hear it grind.

The awesome instructions to get your headlights to shut off if the switch is set to "on" after the remote start times out (or is manually shut off) does not work on remote start only models. It's because you are connecting the viper alarm arm wire, but there is no viper alarm arm function on remote start only models. If someone can think of a different wire that could be used here, id love to know what it is.

When searching for the lock/unlock wires coming out of the door, neither set of wire bundles would produce a voltage change when the key in the door was turned. There is one set of green/black and purple wires that is a bigger gauge than the other. Testing all 4 of them, no voltage change. So i took the door panel off to see where the wires were going in the door, and the smaller guage wires ran to the door lock cylinder. So i used those and they were the right ones.

Little things are left out of the write up, like connecting the valet switch, connecting the 4 wire D2D wire from the PKALL to the Viper brain, plugging in the fuse in the viper brain for the parking lights, the "control button" is the little button on the receiver.. i think that's it. Simple little things but they help to be mentioned in this post.

After i got everything plugged in, i first set up the viper settings without turning the truck on, just turning the key to ACC. Second, i programmed the PKALL. I dont think the order makes any difference, but this is what i did and it worked.

This literally took me 10 hours, working to translate the existing instructions to my application slowed me down quite a bit. But it was totally worth the time taken when everything worked perfect on the first try. Take your time, test all wires before tapping into them, and solder your connections. It's worth it to know for years to come that it's done right.

 

hi. do you have installation for 2015 tacoma sheet that you posted here?



also. we wired door lock with green wire. what do i do with blue unlock wire. where is it wired to?

 

I only have a reference guide for the 05-08 for the Viper 5806v that I linked in post #309. It is a known fact that Toyota changed some wiring starting in '09 and those wires / colors remained the same until at least '12. I do not know if the '15 is the same as the '09-'12. This guide was written for the '10 and @Amys2012namedTOYA says he successfully used it in his 2012:http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=130004&tpn=1

The green lock wire should have gone to a wire in the bundle that goes from the kick panel into the driver's door. On the 05-08 trucks the wire was purple, but there were 2 purple wires, so you had to test for a voltage change on each wire by putting the key in the driver's door lock and locking the door. Is that what you did?

The blue unlock wire on the 05-08 trucks would go to a green/black wire in the same location using the same method to test, only you would test by unlocking rather than locking the door. You must use the key to do these, not the power locks, and not the lever.

I'm actually leaving to go on a cruise tomorrow (Tuesday) and I won't have internet again until Saturday evening. I'm always willing to help but there's going to be a 5 day hiatus starting tomorrow

 

oh so blue unlock wire needs same diodes connected and then locate door unlock wires on truck to connect them?
im just starting wiring today and figuring out what is what. its still a while when i put it in if i find diagram

 

I think I understand the confusion now. The diagram I've posted with the diodes connects to the Tacoma's driver door trigger wire. NOT the lock or unlock wires. The "trigger" wire refers to the wire that tells the truck when the door is opened. It's explained on the 05-08 reference sheet. Look under viper wire H2/15. But again, I have no idea if this is the same in the '15.

 

oh trigger wire. got it now. thanks
now have to figure out where other 30+ wires go to

 

Well.... giving this a go today for my 2012. Remote only, no alarm. Here goes nothing.

 

Let me know. Thought of connecting just remote for now and then maybe alarm

 

When you guys were testing the door lock/unlock..... it says a "voltage change". Are you meaning a blip in voltage (0v to .1v back to 0v)? Or does it actually go from, say, 10v-lock then 0v-unlock?