How to Install a Viper 5704 Alarm/ Remote Start

was just the fuse (thus the asshat). Ended up being a good install without issues besides the programming of my bypass.

 

Which fuse did you blow? I didnt even realize it, but when my GF got in my truck last night she said "it looks dark in here". I shrugged it off, cuz whatever, but then i went to adjust the heat and what do ya know- i couldnt see anything! the lights are out, only on my climate control unit. All other lights work. Was that your issue? And what fuse should i check out?

P.S. glad to hear you got a good install done.

 

It was the "tail" fuse in the panel inside the cab. I believe top row, third from the left. 10 amp fuse.

 

I found an exposed wire from my trailer brake controller that was popping the tail fuse. Totally unrelated to the remote start. a little scary tho, when that fuse is popped your running tail lights dont work (they still work when you hit the brakes). Not sure how long that was an issue. Anyway all good now!

 

I just installed this on my manual '12 RC with manual locks/Windows. Here are a few of my notes/tips that I feel would have made this a lot easier. I honestly didn't read past the first two pages, so sorry if these were mentioned.

The biggest thing if you don't care about anything I write is that all the ignition wires pass through the fuse box area, there is no reason to go digging into the column and having longer wires going more places.

Second biggest tip is don't snip or tie up the wires you don't plan to use, depress the tab on the pin and pull the pin out. This prevents you from having to bundle a lot of useless wires, while still giving you the security of putting the pin back in if you ever actually do need it.

The only technical difference I found for the 2012 is the green/yellow marked in the diagram is actually the ebrake (-) wire, the door trigger is the green/yellow wire on the other 18 pin is the door open trigger.

Since the write up was for a automatic, the two additional pieces for the manual was the ebrake and dealing with the clutch sensor. Instead of grounding the neutral wire, I attached it to the ebrake wire which is the green/yellow mentioned above. To get around the clutch sensor, I wired up the defrost wire to the "clutch cancel" button so that everytime the car remote starts, it enables the clutch cancel so the car will actually start. My goal was to keep all the stock safety functions, so this still requires the clutch to start the car at all other times.

 

Absolutely agree with the ignition wires being at the panel. I would have also determined where exactly I wanted to place the unit, then cut the wires to length. I got excited and jumped in and soldered the original length which means I had a lot of extra wires to tuck.

 

Great post Riverdog!! I just completed the install and everything works great but one issue. After setting the alarm the doors lock but I get a door is open fault a second later on my fob. Has anyone seen this before? Is it a diode issue?

 

Does it do with the both the ebrake set and the ebrake not set?

 

Hi thanks for the reply!! Yes regardless

 

First thing id check is the connections at the door wires... maybe that goes without saying ha.... but i bet theres a loose wire there.

 

Are you using a dummy key in the ignition or did you install a bypass? If you are leaving a key in the ignition, it may be sensing it when you lock, and popping the locks back open?

 

I had the same issue. I followed the wiring schematic posted to the letter as well. What I found was the wiring for those who want to shut off their lights after a remote start (shut down sequence) caused my issue. I re-wired it according to the viper manual and my problem went away.

 

I'm not following you. Can you explain thanks

 

I'm using a bypass

 

Theres a post a few pages back now that talks about the headlights staying on if you leave the headlights on. Ex. you remote start the truck, the headlights come on because you kept the lights on. Then, the truck shuts off, either because you cancelled the start or it timed out. Now the headlights stay on becuase it's waiting for you to open the door (thats the trigger to shut the headlights off).

you can do some wiring to automatically shut the lights off and prevent this problem... but for revalations it caused the same issue you had.

Id suggest going back a few pages on this post and read it through... not sure if you tried that mod or not.

 

Ok thanks I filter through

 

Ok thanks for the revision. I went back through the thread and rewired the trigger to the proper location and wired in the factory arm output wire to the driver door wire with a diode as well. It cleared the fault.

Now I am having issues with my remote start. Initially when I first hooked it up and moved it from manual transmission to automatic transmission it worked with no problems. Now every time I try to use the remote start it cranks but does not start. It tries three times, but never starts. The key fob tells me after the third time I have a low tach signal. I rechecked the wires and everything is still hooked up. Does anyone have any idea what the problem is? Like I said it worked initially.

 

Put your key into the ignition, but don't turn it on. Try the remote start. If it starts, then check your bypass module wiring. You may need to reprogram it.

 

Yup that was it. Started right up. So do I have to take it back to the dealer who sold me it or is there a way I can reprogram it?

 

check the wiring first. make sure nothing came loose. depending on the module, you can probably find directions online to reprogram. it's usually really easy to do.