how to install shell rack/tracks?

Asking this here because I want to know info on 2nd gen specific, not general

Does anyone know how to do this? Haven't found specific threads but will keep looking

regarding getting a rack on a shell.
I have a SnugTop. Doesn't have tracks. Entirely flat on top.
I think it's reinforced roof model because the inside (carpeted) protrudes downward in a rectangle shape. It *looks* like a more premium model Rebel that I imagine comes standard with that.

This leaves me with a number of questions:
1. Which tracks are best? I heard it's FrontRunner Outfitters
2. Do they come with a template or something, based on shell, where to position them? Or maybe it's best to get those AND rack, assemble, then position track location?
So that the tracks are in the correct spot on the shell
3. What is the best rack? I've heard it's Sherpa Crow's Nest

I feel like most of the time people who have a shell then get a rack, their shell already had tracks from the factory, or came that way from previous owner, more often in the past used for two little crossbars

I don't know why prices keep going up. Racks used to be like $700ish max.

just saw this pic of a Taco with whole thing installed:



Or, maybe even waiting to have a cab rack first is needed,
so that when mocking up a shell rack, there's a reference point to line it up to the cab rack, so they match straight and even...



I wonder what's better; shell rack or shell bed cage. There's a guy in Canada who makes custom ones of that, similar to above.
Maybe lets you mount gear on the side too.
But I don't see how they mount with a snugtop that hangs down low on the bed

it's either that or a window mount



I might ask a shell shop what they charge. Am guessing track install is 2hr labor @ $125/hr

 

Lot to unpack here. I hope you don't mind if I share my unpracticed research. First, I don't think canopy questions are gen specific. I have a snugtop rebel on my 3rd gen and it has the same honeycomb thicker rectangular area. I'm here to share what I've been looking at and see what answers you get.

1. I've been looking at Yakima and Thule tracks which seems mostly interchangeable. I have a long bed so I was looking for a 6ish foot track. Maybe slightly less so I don't have to trim the track length.

2. They don't come with a template and the curved shape of shells seems to be a mounting challenge. My plan, unless I learn otherwise is to pull a string from the midpoint between headlights and the center of the trailer hitch to use as a centerline. Then measure a distance that will put my rails just wider than the thicker honeycomb section of the roof (the honeycomb isnt strong and the bolts will crush it in non uniform ways). Ive seen some people discuss following the contour of the canopy with the rails which results in rails that are not parallel. I don't like that idea and plan to use the centerline and equal distances front and rear to make parallel rails.

3. I've been eyeing Sherpa also. They seem to be on the pricy end of racks. So I'm waiting to see one in person and also make sure I want to go with this style of rack (they weigh a fair amount and I'm always concerned when it comes to adding weight on top of fiberglass).

Now the random thoughts. Your snugtop may not be the reinforced version. The thicker section isn't reinforcement for holding weight (or at least mine isn't. I bought mine new and didn't get the weight bearing upgrade... Mistakes were made). I'm hesitant to go with the Sherpa/prinsu style racks because adding 50lbs of metal to the roof full time just to occasionally use it seems like it might be terribly inefficient.

I'm actually considering going with the classic roof rack bars on the back because they are lighter and easier to remove when not in use. Then I'll have a basic platform for a canoe or a classic style roof box... All I really want is a bit more dry space for family camping gear and some mounting options for boats. My traction boards, water cans, and jack can all stay hidden in the canopy.

Bonus thought: I plan to make some fishing pole holders out of PVC pipe and use the bottom of the mounting bolts for the rails as my anchors for some basic clamps to hold the PVC.

Edit: the cage you posted is a great plan for holding significant weight up top. Our shells just aren't made with real weight carrying in mind. They will do it, but for how long over heavy washboard. So tell us, what do you plan on putting up top?

 

Ok. I was under the impression the protruding means reinforced. But in that case if whoever ordered it new got reinforced I’d assume they would’ve gotten tracks when they checked every other option it has.

If the protruding doesn’t indicate that I guess first I have to snap pics of the serial no to send snugtop and ask if it is or not

below pic is not mine but posting to illustrate the protruding overhead rectangular section

 

If only there was a section with multiple write-ups on this subject https://www.tacomaworld.com/forums/tonneau-covers-caps-and-shells.198/

Depending on the shell, the picture above most likely shows an incorrect installation- the thicker part on most shells is a fiberboard honeycomb material designed to help the roof hold its shape and not vibrate while in motion (which helps keep the paint and gelcoat from cracking). You don't want to drill through it as it's not designed to be compressed meaning tightening past a certain point will lead to it starting to compact which will only get worse over time, necessitating that you keep tightening them which is just going to increase the problem. Any water intrusion into that material is going to cause problems with weakening it and also mold. Yakima and Thule both have shell mounting instructions on their websites if you look and both recommend mounting outside of that thicker section. Both also make rounded nuts for use inside shells- the first time you bump your head against one you'll know why you don't want a regular nut and bolt inside.

Yakima, Thule and several of the others make tracks that are approximately the same size and will use the other's hardware.

An exterior rack system like on that Ford is going to carry more weight but that rack doesn't appear to be designed to hold a tent. The rack itself is going to weigh a lot more (not as big a deal on a F250 as it is on a light duty truck like the Tacoma) andthe more weight you put on top, the higher your center of gravity- also more noise and lower mpg. There are ways to mount an beside rack with a shell that has a lip- you use a drop plate or I've seen where people have notched the lip (I'd originally planned on doing that but decided against it as it's enough of a PITA to get a good seal with these beds).

I'd be very leery of hanging stuff off the side, the shells aren't designed for that and the hardware for the windows is light duty. If you're in the desert it's probably not a concern but if you're in the woods and rub a tree it may be a problem.

ETA- A waterproof wiring pass through (as used on solar installations) is a more watertight way to run wires through the shell.

 

Per the snugtop website the extra reinforcement (sportsmans package) supports up to 500lbs and has:

• 1-inch double reinforced roof (Regular roof thickness is 1/2 inch in thickness)
• Reinforced corners, edges, and other critical stress points

So I think the give away is the roof thickness.

 

We don't see many Snugtops on this side of the country so I'm not very familiar with them but, IIRC, they have an ID/serial number plate in them like the other manufacturers. I'd call Snugtop, give them that info and ask them- better safe than sorry.

 

I know you asked for 2nd gen, but this should still apply the same basically. I can add to this later (at work now), but check my build thread for some pictures. I ordered Yakima rails (longer than I needed) and cut them to the size I wanted.

I was planning to eventually mount the Victory 4x4 rack on my cap. In their installation video, they give you the distance from screw head center to center for both rails.

I found center on my cap going from the third brake light while it was installed and also off the shark fin antenna on the truck. From there I measured out left and right and made a dot with a sharpie. I did it all with a square and checked measurements multiple times. It also happened that the measurements would put the rails right in line with the stock weatherstripping on top of the truck cab.

After that was all done, I drilled pilot holes, checked measurements again, then went to the full screw size. As for installations hardware… I put silicone on each hole I drilled to prevent any water intrusion.

It took me probably an hour, being careful and triple checking measurements, but it came out perfect.

If you have any more questions feel free to DM me.