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How to properly clean your truck

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by xkieuteex, Sep 30, 2018.

  1. Oct 1, 2018 at 1:41 PM
    #61
    hiPSI

    hiPSI Laminar Flow

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    Go look at prices for a full size comparably equipped truck. Never said or implied it was "dispensable" nor did I imply "disposable" as that is probably what you meant.

    What I meant was this: It's a mid to high $30's vehicle, which is about average for all new vehicle today. Paint will last a long time unwashed and unwaxed. Don't believe me? Go look at a 20 year old wreck that has been sitting in a junkyard. Sure, old straight enamel and lacquer with no clearcoat would not last without special care, but today's paint will last much longer than you will have the vehicle. Yes, it might have scratches and swirl marks but it will still do the job of protecting the metal underneath.
    Basically, nowadays, people put a ton of time and money into washing and waxing a vehicle for one reason: Looks.
    Don't get me wrong... I wash my truck every few weeks. I like a clean truck but I would have to wash it every day in order to keep it clean. Also I really can't get out of my truck every time I go by a briar or undergrowth to move it out of the way. Might as well walk to the jobsite. My truck is gonna get scratched. Also, loading frequently means it's probably gonna get dented a bit. I understand some of you guys only stay on the pavement. I also know some of you only drive 6K a year and never tow and never haul. It's ok, really. I also know there are a lot of people like me, which is why I told the OP to get a clean bucket, clean rag, clean water and some car soap. That does it for me.
    Bottom line, doing all the stuff some of you do to clean and protect your trucks is fine. Doesn't hurt it one bit. But, other than looks, it really only helps the people who make the products you buy.
     
    xkieuteex[OP] likes this.
  2. Oct 1, 2018 at 5:01 PM
    #62
    jersey jim

    jersey jim Well-Known Member

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    I like to keep my vehicles clean, protected, and as swirl and scratch free as possible.

    Some things I have found out over the years.

    The only things that should touch your paint are microfiber towels and foam polish applicators/pads.

    Even if you want a clean start, use something like Chemical Brothers Clean Start, leave the dish detergent in the kitchen.
    For regular washes I've been using this pink foamy stuff from Chemical Brothers. Use a microfiber mitt or sponge shaped microfiber.
    A bucket for the soapy stuff and a separate bucket for rinsing the mitt is optimal.

    Dry with a waffle microfiber towel. I also use a $25.00 Black and Decker leaf blower to get water out things like the mirrors, wheels, etc. (great for motorcycles too). I don't use the blower for anything else, I have another leaf blower for, well, blowing leaves.

    I like Klasse All In One polish to protect my paint, it's an acrylic product, lasts a long time, easy to apply, a jug isn't too expensive and lasts for years. I use this twice a year, once in the spring, once before the winter. I use a spray wax after each wash during the rest of the year.

    BTW, I love the Cement paint on my 3rd gen, it stays looking clean a lot longer than my black 2nd gen. I usually only wash this truck every 3-4 weeks, the black truck I was washing every week or two.
     
    Last edited: Oct 1, 2018
    PackCon likes this.
  3. Oct 1, 2018 at 5:16 PM
    #63
    aleriance

    aleriance Well-Known Member

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    You should never use any amount of dish soap on your paint, as it will strip it away your wax like nothing and then begin to eat away at the clear coat.
     
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  4. Oct 1, 2018 at 5:23 PM
    #64
    aleriance

    aleriance Well-Known Member

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    Never wash in direct sunlight.

    Always use 2 buckets (best with a grit guard in your dirt bucket). One bucket is 1/4 full with water/soap. The other bucket is full of water and is where you will rinse your mit to get the dirt off before you dip it back into the soap bucket.

    Split truck into 4 sections (Front, Left side, Right side, Bed/back). Wash one section, rinse the soap off, then move on to the next section.

    Scrub in circular motion.

    As you move along, respray the entire truck with water so it doesn't air dry (and leave water spots) until you are fully done going around.

    Dry with thoroughly by hand (also in 4 sections)
     
  5. Oct 1, 2018 at 5:27 PM
    #65
    PackCon

    PackCon Well-Known Member

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    Why do you need to add a layer of protection at each wash?
    A quality sealer only needs to be laid every 6-12 months depending on use, climate, and washing habits. If you ceramic coat then 1-5 years depending on the product.

    I know the 2nd Gen white is a single stage with no clear coat. They may have changed it with the third gen (which would explain problems with the color if they did change it.).

    The number one reason I got white was no clear. The best color for paint correction and touch up.
     
    oscolivar1[QUOTED] likes this.
  6. Oct 1, 2018 at 5:31 PM
    #66
    PackCon

    PackCon Well-Known Member

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    One should never use a bath towel to dry either.
     
  7. Oct 1, 2018 at 5:57 PM
    #67
    RushT

    RushT Amateur Everythingist

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    Hand cannon, foam cannon... they do the same thing, just differently. I have a foam cannon attached to my 3200 psi pressure washer. I use it probably every other time I wash. 3 oz. of soap and in about 45 seconds I have 1/4" of foam all over my car or truck. I let it 'season' for about 5 minutes and then start washing from the top down. Is it necessary? No. Then again, neither is washing. But I find that it loosens everything very well and it takes hardly any pressure at all when I put the microfiber to it. Pretty much just the pressure of the towel and my hand.

    I'll totally agree it's not necessary, but I disagree that it's BS.
     
  8. Oct 1, 2018 at 6:01 PM
    #68
    oscolivar1

    oscolivar1 Well-Known Member

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    Probably not the best term to use “layer of protection” it’s a silica sealant (carpro ech2o and Carpro hydro2 lite) i dilute to my own specific needs. Gives the ceramic coating that super wet look while gives the surface extra hydrophilic abilities. Really gives me the ability to only have to wash my car once a month and sometimes longer.

    Wheels are coated as well and are holding up well with the same regimen.
     
  9. Oct 1, 2018 at 6:18 PM
    #69
    oscolivar1

    oscolivar1 Well-Known Member

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    I just argue with it cuz just power washing with just water alone will take out the majority of dirt with the same results if you compared to using a foam cannon/gun. We don’t spray on soap on our own bodies let it sit and run ourselves under water, we scrub/agitate our skin to clean. The idea of soap lifting up dirt is what the detail industry wants people to believe, it’s a cash cow for the industry. Like why do we need soaps specific for foam cannons....kinda ridiculous honestly. Using an Ik foamer or any hand pump type sprayer will get the job done using less soap and less water.

    It’s more of time management thing for me. Take away steps that are not needed and achieve the same results.

    Not saying I’m 100% right, just expressing what I found during my detailing. If anyone here wants to keep using cannons/guns do it!!! Just my opinion on the matter.
     
  10. Oct 1, 2018 at 6:24 PM
    #70
    StayinStock

    StayinStock Dare to be the same

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    I'm guessing the OP tapped out about 50 posts ago.
     
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  11. Oct 1, 2018 at 7:07 PM
    #71
    RushT

    RushT Amateur Everythingist

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    Pretty fair assessment, but I do let my shampoo sit in my hair for a bit. Sort of enjoy that tingle. :) And yes, the marketing industry is famous for taking some benefit, and extrapolating into the second coming of Christ.... you just have to have it or be damned.

    I guess the difference with cars is that I don’t want to agitate too much. That, and poor drying technique are what puts scratches in your paint. A good soapy sudsy soak, seems to loosen things pretty well. In my experience at least. You probably experience the same with your hand tools.

    I do find lots of dirt and grit at the bottom of my rinse bucket. And I use two buckets, both with guards.

    I haven’t done a scientific test, and it might be as you say.... all hype. But I suspect that the viscosity of soap plays a role in how much lather vs bubble you get. Then again, the amount you use plays a role too. I tend to use about 3 oz when I wash. I also probably end up using more water than a decent drive through.

    Our cars haven’t been washed by the dealers or car washes in probably ten years. At the moment, none are older than three years so it’s not saying much about these.

    But I digress. Back to the topic. For me, and perhaps for OP, I find the cleaning/detailing/waxing process therapeutic. If I’m relaxed on a weekend and have time, I’ll spend three hours doing one of the cars. Just like when I come home a little frustrated or what not, I pull out the flat six and find a road or two and let it sing to me. It’s all therapeutic. Each in their own way.

    I’m a process guy. About half the fun of camping was the preparation, organization, and planning. And of course getting all the gear cleaned, restocked, and packed up ready to go again.

    I may have to look into the hand gun. It might be a nice alternative to the pressure washer. The pressure washer makes short work of the lathering, but even though my nearest neighbor is 50 yards away, I don’t always want to fire it up if it’s early in the am.

    It’s all good, more than one way to skin a cat (wash a car).
     
    oscolivar1[QUOTED] likes this.
  12. Oct 1, 2018 at 7:09 PM
    #72
    m603holden

    m603holden @Koditten Pirate Radio member #063

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    :frusty:
     
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  13. Oct 1, 2018 at 7:27 PM
    #73
    shakerhood

    shakerhood Well-Known Member

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    There is nothing wrong with using Dawn Basic to wash with if you are going to be following up a full detail, removing all the old waxes is what you would want in that scenario.
     
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  14. Oct 1, 2018 at 7:27 PM
    #74
    oscolivar1

    oscolivar1 Well-Known Member

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    It’s a great alternative!!! I haven’t busted out the pressure washer/ foam cannon setup in months. Some will say hand pump is a lot of pumping, but I can get the whole truck done without refilling it. I don’t try to spray the whole truck in one go, I just use it as I’m gliding my washmitt across the paint. I did the same when I had a foam gun connected to a water hose, but I didn’t like how much soap was being used. 2oz on soap in a Ik foam sprayer is clutch.

    Save lots of money!
     
  15. Oct 1, 2018 at 7:30 PM
    #75
    TacoBuffet

    TacoBuffet Well-Known Member

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    Here's my regular wash process (non claybar / decontamination), made this for my parent's who are not mechanically/automobile maint. inclined. @xkieuteex

     

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  16. Oct 1, 2018 at 7:52 PM
    #76
    RushT

    RushT Amateur Everythingist

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  17. Oct 1, 2018 at 7:57 PM
    #77
    m603holden

    m603holden @Koditten Pirate Radio member #063

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    I mean, you just want to soap everything the hell up...hahahaScreenshot_20180602-170323~2.jpg
     
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  18. Oct 2, 2018 at 3:27 AM
    #78
    PackCon

    PackCon Well-Known Member

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    Specifically what product are your wheels coated with? Commercial product or professional?

    I'd like to have my wheels coated. I just don't want to lose the matte finish.
     
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  19. Oct 2, 2018 at 3:32 AM
    #79
    PackCon

    PackCon Well-Known Member

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    I would argue that there is.

    Dawn is a harsh detergent. It really does a number on plastics and rubbers. Also, it does not do a good job at fully removing protective coatings.

    Soaps that are designed to strip protective products to prepare for new protective products do a better job at cleaning the paint and don't harm your plastics and rubbers.

    Dawn is for dishes. Leave it in the kitchen.
     
  20. Oct 2, 2018 at 4:02 AM
    #80
    Clearwater Bill

    Clearwater Bill Never answer an anonymous letter

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