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How to pull ABS Codes??

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by custom90gt, Feb 18, 2012.

  1. Feb 18, 2012 at 5:06 PM
    #1
    custom90gt

    custom90gt [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So I just picked up an 05 taco for a good price, but the ABS light is on. I read this in the FSM:


    TEST MODE PROCEDURE (for Using a SST Check Wire)
    HINT:
    • If the ignition switch is turned from the ON to the ACC or LOCK position during test mode, DTCs related to the signal check function will be erased.
    • During test mode, the skid control ECU records all DTCs related to the signal check function. By performing the signal check, the codes are erased if normality is confirmed. The codes left over are the codes where an abnormality was found.
    (a) Turn the ignition switch to OFF.
    (b) Check that the steering wheel is in the straight ahead position.
    (c) A/T: Check that the shift lever is in the P position and apply the parking brake.
    M/T: Check that the shift lever is in neutral and apply the parking brake.
    (d) Using SST, connect terminals TS and CG of the DLC3. SST 09843-18040
    (e) Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. Check that the ABS warning light is blinking as shown in the illustration.
    HINT:
    If the ABS warning light does not blink, inspect the ABS warning light circuit and TS and CG terminal circuit.



    I tried jumping it with a wire and my ABS light stays solid. I was hoping to pull codes before I go tracing down the gremlins. My stealership wants to charge me money to pull abs codes, and checker/autozone can't pull them.

    DLC3.jpg
     
  2. Feb 19, 2012 at 5:36 PM
    #2
    custom90gt

    custom90gt [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Alright, I figured it out. I was using the wrong thing. In order to pull codes, you need to connect pins 4 and 13 and then turn the key to the on position. This will flash the codes.
    Mine ended up being code 32, front left speed sensor fubar. My real problem ended up being a cut harness (in two places, to make it extra fun). I took the harness off and fixed it, I'll put it back in tomorrow and see if my codes will go away. Also found out my front cv boot is ripped too. Doh.
     
  3. Feb 19, 2012 at 5:55 PM
    #3
    Brunes

    Brunes abides.

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    Inside: Tint, Wet Okole 1/2 Piped Red/Black Covers, Black Weathertech Digital Fit Mats, URD Short Throw w/ TWM Weighted Knob, USA Spec iPod adapter. Outside: 4300K Retro w/ Angel Eyes and Red Shrouds, 5000K Blazer Fog Light Retrofit, Debadge, Bed Locking Handle, Satin Black Rims Performance: TRD/Steigmeier Blower w/ 2.7 Pulley. 668 Injectors and 320 LPH AEM Fuel pump. URD UCON and 7th Injector. DTLT Headers, URD Y-Pipe, Wicked Flow Muffler. Suspension: Both: OME Shocks Front: 886X's and TC UCAs Rear: Dakars Armor: Relentless Front Bumper Relentless High Clearance Rear w/ Tire/Rotopax Swing Out Relentless Front, Mid, and TCase skids BAMF Diff Skid Recovery and Spares: Fullsize Spare Tire 2x2 gal Rotopax 1x1 gal Rotopax 1x1 gal Water Rotopax Warn 9.5XP-S Winch Hi-Lift Extreme 60" Ironman Off-Road Recovery Kit
    Awww shit- You and I spent part of the day doing the same thing. Front right wire got effed when I was installing my wife's lift in her 4R.
    I think I'm gunna take the shot and buy a new wire tho...It's only 50 bones and it'll give me piece of mind so far as weather proofing is concerned...My wire finishing skills aren't the greatest....
     
  4. Feb 19, 2012 at 6:07 PM
    #4
    custom90gt

    custom90gt [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hah, yeah i know what you mean about biting the bullet and buying a new one. I'm going to buy some plasti-dip tomorrow and weatherproof it that way so I don't have any issues. I have some nice marine heat-shrink but I can't figure out how to take either connector off so I can slide it over the wires.
    Fun times tracing down ABS problems...
     
  5. Feb 19, 2012 at 6:21 PM
    #5
    Brunes

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    Yeah...Gotta put the heat shrink on before you fix it or have the little plug tool to re set the wire ends.
     
  6. Feb 19, 2012 at 6:23 PM
    #6
    custom90gt

    custom90gt [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I shrunk the wire that i fixed, I just wanted to redo the part of the harness that I had to strip the old weather proofing off of. Plasti-dip should do the trick though.
     
  7. Apr 1, 2022 at 7:46 AM
    #7
    comradeshrek

    comradeshrek Well-Known Member

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    How did you diagnose the harness was the issue? Thanks!
     
  8. Apr 1, 2022 at 12:55 PM
    #8
    6 gearT444E

    6 gearT444E Certified Electron Pusher

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    you will expect voltage at the harness connector with the key on. Without that. There is a break in the wire. TDR to locate if physical inspection does not reveal anything.
     
    TnShooter likes this.
  9. Apr 1, 2022 at 12:57 PM
    #9
    comradeshrek

    comradeshrek Well-Known Member

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    Gotcha thanks! Was able to get voltage for both cables, but then I ran a continuity test on both sensors and only one showed continuity. Just trying to find ways of double-checking that my tests were right
     
    6 gearT444E[QUOTED] likes this.
  10. Apr 1, 2022 at 1:31 PM
    #10
    custom90gt

    custom90gt [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Wow thread revival from 10 years ago! I just unplugged the sensor and checked continuity between the ends of each individual wire. I think I just used a simple sewing needle to pierce the insulation of the wire, but that's 10 years ago.
     
  11. Apr 1, 2022 at 6:58 PM
    #11
    EdableDonut

    EdableDonut Well-Known Member

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    None. 220k miles, just did a major brake/ suspension overhaul to keep him on the road.
    Welcome back! Where you still a long term member or did you get an email and jump back on?
     
  12. Apr 2, 2022 at 6:04 AM
    #12
    custom90gt

    custom90gt [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Sadly I've since sold my tacoma to my sister who is still loving it! I've been in a Chevy Colorado ZR2 with the little diesel and enjoying it. I don't frequent the forums anymore, but did see your email come through for the thread alert.
     
    Buzzkill657 likes this.

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