How to remove lower ball joints

And moog is great.

 

Yeah, I have Moog all around on my Miata, those were easy. I think I am going to attempt this, I have a spare set of lower arms, and it seems worth while, and the Moog ball joints are only ~$25 each from Rock Auto. I have access to a 12 ton press, so that should help too.

 

did you use a press kit? you can rent them for free at auto zone

 

I have a very loud popping and clanking noise when i'm turning. pretty sure its my lower driver side ball joint. I'v never replaced a ball joint but if it can be done without buying the full lower control arm i will. All of you talked about having to beat the hell outta the thing and modifying tools and all. but has anyone used the ball joint press that was mentioned? also if there's a thread that gives a good step by step i'd appreciate it.

 

I think the process is simply to remove the clip on the top side of the arm that "holds" the ball joint in. Then be creative about pressing the ball joint out of the arm. Then reverse the process after cleaning the control arm and install. In theory it shouldnt be too bad, I havent done it, but I have looked at it and done other ball joints on other vehicles like this.

I have a spare set of LCAs that I have been thinking about doing this to, refurbing them, and either selling them or using them after I put some more miles on my truck.

Where are you located?

 

Moog makes the best aftermarket ball joints and tie rods. The nipples are always difficult because the hole that you put it into is not threaded. When you put the nipple in yourself, it threads the opening. Saves them money on assembly since they can just put the nipple in the bag and let US install them. lol.

As for removing the joint from the spindle/knuckle, I have never had any trouble using a single 5 pound hammer on the edge of the knuckle as was described in the "two-hammer" method. No need for two hammers, but that is my opinion. You just have to be careful. I WOULD suggest that you do NOT hit the castle nut to try and knock it loose. While it is not always the case, when you strike that nut, you can distend the threads and ruin the nut without realizing it.

 

ok guys I just saw this thread on the home page. I have replaced my ball joints yesterday. Moogs on the lca's and stocks on the uca's. I have a mattco super set ball joint tool. It was very easy to remove and install uca ball joints no problem. Lca ball joints expecially the moogs take a rediculous amount of pressure to push in. With that being said take those lca's to a shop or anywhere you know has a shop press. ie. military base hobby shops etc and press them in with the shop press. So easy that way. It was past 10 tons of pressure before it fully seated. I tried to put a moog lower ball joint in with the tool, and my tired girlfriend, my tired bench vise sore arm and broken craftsmen wrench with cheater pipe i still had between a 16th and 1/8 to go. lol press them in call it a day, easy.

 

thanks ya'll. I think I will get the MOOG joints and take it to a shop here in town thats pretty good when it comes to 4x4's and such. I cant drop the money for a set of LCA's. But one more question:

Will the MOOG joints work fine with a taco that's lifted 3"? I'm saying that the lift caused my lower ball joints to give out.

 

The lowers should be fine, it's the uppers that get greatly affected by a lift.

 

There is a write up that includes changing out the LCA bushings, i'm not on my comp so i dont' have the link. You pretty much need a press, and a propane torch too heat up the metal around the ball joint just a lil bit to expand and press out.

 

I replaced my lower ball joints and ruined one of the "C-Clamp" presses from O'Rilley's. I replaced it them with Moog. Hopefully I don't have to do that again! I have the needle bearing to bushing job to do and have been completely dreading it. I came back to the forum to browse around and saw a picture of the LCA. I was delighted to see that it BOLTS to the spindle! (I had forgotten that) I sure hope that the lifetime warranty on the Moog balljoints make the balljoints last a lifetime! I don't want to do that again. I didn't realize that many purchase LCA with the balljoints already in them. After I got the first side done, I would have probably gone for that! I think I used and bent every tool that I had trying to get the old out and the new in! I used a lot of the caveman technique. If it doesn't move, use bigger hammer!!! Would be embarrassed to include pictures of the way I did it.

Craig

 

Ha ha trust me man without a shop press.i feel your pain i stripped the mattco tool and broke my wrench, almost tipped a table over with the vise on ot then i decided to go use a shop press lol.

 

I'VE TRIED TO CHANGED AN IT WAS DIFFICULT, I just take off one the left lower ball, and put it back the same, because i wasnt sure, because , I use heat (torch) to remove it and to put it back, so it was very easy whith the heating method. but i'm not sure if it is the rigth way

 

I'm wondering the same thing.

 

But have you actually done it with a pitman arm separator before?

 

Have one sitting in my toolbox that I use on every single ball joint that needs to be separated.

 

Going to be doing this in the very near future

 

2nd Gen, 2006 PreRun...

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2nd-gen-lower-ball-joint-replacement.513331/#post-16164871

 

Did you end up doing this?

 

The steering stop bracket was seized onto my lower ball joint on my 2015. A pickle fork wasn't thick enough to pry it free, and a ball joint removal tool kept slipping off. My neighbor helped hold a pickel fork in place and then I placed a second pickle fork in the opposite side and hit it 6 times. It finally let go. Hope this helps...