How to remove the exhaust manifold studs?

I don’t know if it’s available in your area, but you might try a product from Kano Labs in Tennessee
http://www.kanolabs.com/
The product is called KROIL, an excellent penetrating oil, worth a try, I’ve had a lot of success with it.

 

I did it today and it works

 

That beeswax trick is something I learned from a mechanic that has had to remove broken studs in engine cylinder heads. He told me that it works every time. Glad to hear that you had success using that technique.

 

Make up some Ed's Red. If not Kroil will work but you need to allow time for it to penetrate. I think you are a wee bit too far away to use my induction heater.

 

Beeswax is great. Multiple days of PB Blaster Soaking is fine. Putting heat to the stud should be to help whatever penetrate you use wick. Be sure to let it cool before you give a twist. Hot stud + cold block = tighter. Really no effective way to heat the block beyond the stud. Too much mass....

 

Found this older thread because my studs look pretty crusty too after 17 years (2007 truck). Not looking forward to getting them out.

Anybody replaced these studs/nuts with bolts? Or is there a clearance issue?

 

I don't see why bolts wouldn't work. Just get a good length and maybe some washers. The bolt head shouldn't be to much wider than the nuts that are coming off.

Look for a nice shouldered bolt (technically called a cap screw I believe)

 

That’s what I thought. Some nice SS cap screws will be much cheaper than the $120+ for the ARP studs/nuts everyone buys. And makes header install easier

 

Header bolts are generally a bad idea with aluminum heads. Too much risk of threads pulling.

 

Copper or nickel anti-seize. LS/LT motors use bolts from the factory.
Plus, my steel studs already have to come out of the aluminum heads.

 

Sounds like you have a plan……best of luck

 

I've done lots of rusty headers, I dont know if butane or propane is enough, I get them stupid hot before touching them with acetylene.