1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

How To: Replacing Carrier Bearing

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by TacomaJPP, Jan 27, 2013.

  1. Sep 23, 2017 at 10:42 AM
    #261
    j0shu4

    j0shu4 98 TRD 4x4, 3.4 Turbo, Full LT, Fully Locked

    Joined:
    Dec 21, 2014
    Member:
    #144706
    Messages:
    1,934
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    98 TRD, Turbo, 3.4L, 4x4, LT
    Turbo, Fiberglass, Full Long Travel, Lockers, T100 axle, King Shocks
    Where do the washers go? What order? I see 2 thin and 1 thick.....
     
  2. Sep 23, 2017 at 10:45 AM
    #262
    Izmist29

    Izmist29 Member

    Joined:
    Jul 31, 2017
    Member:
    #225484
    Messages:
    20
  3. Sep 23, 2017 at 10:47 AM
    #263
    j0shu4

    j0shu4 98 TRD 4x4, 3.4 Turbo, Full LT, Fully Locked

    Joined:
    Dec 21, 2014
    Member:
    #144706
    Messages:
    1,934
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    98 TRD, Turbo, 3.4L, 4x4, LT
    Turbo, Fiberglass, Full Long Travel, Lockers, T100 axle, King Shocks
    You know where the washers go?
     
  4. Sep 23, 2017 at 10:50 AM
    #264
    Izmist29

    Izmist29 Member

    Joined:
    Jul 31, 2017
    Member:
    #225484
    Messages:
    20
    Not sure which washers ur referring to?
     
  5. Sep 23, 2017 at 10:51 AM
    #265
    Izmist29

    Izmist29 Member

    Joined:
    Jul 31, 2017
    Member:
    #225484
    Messages:
    20
    Csb should only have lockwasher for mounting bolts I believe
     
  6. Sep 23, 2017 at 10:52 AM
    #266
    j0shu4

    j0shu4 98 TRD 4x4, 3.4 Turbo, Full LT, Fully Locked

    Joined:
    Dec 21, 2014
    Member:
    #144706
    Messages:
    1,934
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    98 TRD, Turbo, 3.4L, 4x4, LT
    Turbo, Fiberglass, Full Long Travel, Lockers, T100 axle, King Shocks
    20170923_115041.jpg
     
  7. Sep 23, 2017 at 11:03 AM
    #267
    Izmist29

    Izmist29 Member

    Joined:
    Jul 31, 2017
    Member:
    #225484
    Messages:
    20
    I don't recall seeing those thin washers, but I believe the thick one was for the staked nut, I would imagine by the looks of them that they were on either side of the bearing itself. Don't go off what I say though id look into it more
     
  8. Sep 23, 2017 at 11:06 AM
    #268
    j0shu4

    j0shu4 98 TRD 4x4, 3.4 Turbo, Full LT, Fully Locked

    Joined:
    Dec 21, 2014
    Member:
    #144706
    Messages:
    1,934
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    98 TRD, Turbo, 3.4L, 4x4, LT
    Turbo, Fiberglass, Full Long Travel, Lockers, T100 axle, King Shocks
    Think I got it figured. They go on pretty much one way for it to work. Thank you though man
     
  9. Oct 24, 2017 at 9:40 PM
    #269
    chinorx3

    chinorx3 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2017
    Member:
    #216451
    Messages:
    148
    Gender:
    Male
    Florida
    Vehicle:
    06 Tacoma Lifted
    Pro Mod Lift Kit , Method wheels on 35's
    CF552F5A-C4CB-4C94-B140-7777038ABF1B.jpg 3CE5D3A0-AB73-40E9-800D-338E1C4B6B1B.jpg

    You can see how bad it was , took me only 6 hrs :confused::frusty: but end result so worth it runs so much smoother . Now I really can feel my balls joints that I been putting off :help: . My truck is lifted 6 inches plus body lift I think I’m purchasing a shim kit for my rear and to help mke the carrier bearing last longer and it don’t help when I’m always loading the shit of it
     
  10. Nov 15, 2017 at 10:04 AM
    #270
    rzgkane

    rzgkane Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2012
    Member:
    #88082
    Messages:
    554
    Gender:
    Male
    Huntington Beach, CA
    Vehicle:
    2019 Tacoma TDR Sport 4WD DCLB - cement
    I know I'm replying to an old post but I am facing the issue right now. I had the center bearing replaced by a driveline shop about 45,000 miles ago and it completely disintegrated (see pic). When I took it apart to do a DIY replacement there were NO WASHERS between the flange and the bearing race. I have to assume there is supposed to be at least one in there, maybe two as depicted in the parts diagram. Maybe this is why it failed so quickly? The shop did NOT use an OEM replacement, evidenced by the fact that the bearing has two hangers on it and the OEM does not. Has anyone else found less than two spacers between the flange and bearing? Just curious.

     
    OneWheelPeel likes this.
  11. Dec 27, 2017 at 6:56 PM
    #271
    blackZEBRA

    blackZEBRA Member

    Joined:
    Jan 30, 2011
    Member:
    #50194
    Messages:
    12
    Gender:
    Male
    Los Angeles, CA
    Does anyone know the correct part numbers for the 3 (or are there 4?) u joints for a extended cab pre-runner?

    I am replacing the carrier bearing soon and figured that I might as well replace all the u-joints!
     
  12. Dec 28, 2017 at 1:39 PM
    #272
    PJL

    PJL Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2017
    Member:
    #214348
    Messages:
    95
    Gender:
    Male
    Baltimore, MD
    Vehicle:
    2003 xcab Tacoma 4x4
    Stock
    Hey Zebra there are 4 u-joints, one at the trans, one at the diff, and then two that make up that double cardan joint. Anyone else looking to replace this bearing, buy OEM. Consider the load; this has to be quality. I replaced mine some time ago and honestly can't remember what washers, if any, are there. Just call or go into a Taco dealer and ask. The guys at Olathe Toyota in Kansas are real helpful and competitive. Not a plug, just my experience. Also if you have a problem removing that stake nut search my earlier posts in this thread sometime in March/April '17. Now that's a plug. Good luck.
     
    blackZEBRA likes this.
  13. Dec 28, 2017 at 5:56 PM
    #273
    blackZEBRA

    blackZEBRA Member

    Joined:
    Jan 30, 2011
    Member:
    #50194
    Messages:
    12
    Gender:
    Male
    Los Angeles, CA
    Thanks. I looked under today when I was greasing the u joints and noticed that. Does the cardan joint come with the u-joints if i were to replace that part as a whole?

    Also do you know if the front and rear u-joint share the same part #?
     
  14. Dec 28, 2017 at 6:19 PM
    #274
    ImpulseRed008

    ImpulseRed008 Gone But Not Forgotten

    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2008
    Member:
    #9104
    Messages:
    46,176
    Gender:
    Female
    First Name:
    Susan
    SC
    Vehicle:
    08 PreRunner SR5 V6 w/tow pkg
    OEM SS tube steps, Access LE tonneau cover, pop n'lock, AVS in-channel vent visors, stubby antenna, Wet Okole seat covers, bed mat, rear diff breather mod, 4 extra d rings in bed, K&N air filter.
    Don't get the stock pre-runner u joints, get the 4x4 u joints. Pre-runners do not have grease zerks. I got the spicer greaseable when I replaced mine.
     
  15. Jan 1, 2018 at 3:42 PM
    #275
    PJL

    PJL Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2017
    Member:
    #214348
    Messages:
    95
    Gender:
    Male
    Baltimore, MD
    Vehicle:
    2003 xcab Tacoma 4x4
    Stock
    Happy New Year! From what I was told that double cardan can be a bit tricky to work on. I think there is some sort of ball and spring set up in the middle. I'm not sure if you can buy one preassembled or not. Mine was still good so I just replaced the one at the trans as the one at diff had been done recently by PO. Not sure of part #'s but like I said before the guys on the phone at Olathe Toyota Parts are very accommodating and will ferret out those #'s for you with your specs.
     
  16. Jan 28, 2018 at 9:51 PM
    #276
    CyberKnight

    CyberKnight Member

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2012
    Member:
    #84194
    Messages:
    5
    Gender:
    Male
    Atlanta, GA
    Vehicle:
    05 PreRunner SR5 LB
    Also check Rock Auto for the OEM Dana/Spicer carrier bearing - it actually has Toyota's part number on it! And the price was less than half what a dealer gets in most cases. But only for RWD versions. They have SKF for 4WD Tacomas.
    For RWD: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6365691&cc=1431544&jsn=10481 ($50 & only shows up for 2005 for some odd reason)
    For 4WD: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1841600&cc=1431544&jsn=10480 ($48 for SKF)

    I just had the Spicer CB installed on my DCLB Prerunner and it worked perfectly - no vibes at all. Also, I filled it with GE silicone rubber before using it - takes several days to cure. This 'mod' supposedly makes it much stiffer like the polyurethane Ford bearing. I did replace all 3 U-joints at the same time as the one at the diff was going bad.
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2018
  17. Jan 29, 2018 at 11:26 AM
    #277
    SOMDTACO

    SOMDTACO Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2012
    Member:
    #73195
    Messages:
    195
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Sean
    Southern Maryland
    Vehicle:
    96 Extended Cab 4x4 2.7 MT
    New Taco: 96 DLX Extended Cab 4x4 2.7,MT, Bilstein 5100s at 2.5 and HS 3 Leaf AAL Old Taco: 11 Prerunner Maxtrac Spindles in the front, 2'' AAL with Bilstein 5100 extended in the back. 18'' Milanni Stellars wrapped in 265/70/18 General Grabber tires.
    Tell me more about packing the bearing with silicone. I have an aftermarket CB on my work bench just waiting to go in. What is the actual procedure for filling it with silicone?
     
  18. Jan 29, 2018 at 3:29 PM
    #278
    CyberKnight

    CyberKnight Member

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2012
    Member:
    #84194
    Messages:
    5
    Gender:
    Male
    Atlanta, GA
    Vehicle:
    05 PreRunner SR5 LB
    I used a typical caulking gun with a tube of GE silicone in it. I cut the spout off square about 3/4 inch down so it was almost fully open and then put that in the round hole in the top of the carrier housing as far as possible (the nozzle will nearly fill the round hole) with it slanted to first one side then the other. I pumped the silicone into each 'side' until it flooded out the oblong hole on the bottom of the housing. I also put a piece of duct tape over the second oblong hole and held my thumb over it so the second 'fill' also filled the space between the two oblong holes at the bottom of the housing. (you'll need to have a piece scrap cardboard under it while you're working to catch the excess silicone - use alcohol for cleanup)
    After letting it cure for a couple hours I put it in a small convection oven set to about 175 degrees to speed up the curing process (once again on a piece of cardboard). I used the oven for four 12 hour sessions over a period of a week. You could use any normal oven but I already had the convection one for another project. Seems to have worked well. It takes a long time to completely cure because most of the silicone is deep inside the housing but I suspect you could go ahead and install the CB after a few days of curing and it would finish curing after installation.
     
    MacGyvR and SOMDTACO like this.
  19. Feb 21, 2018 at 4:20 PM
    #279
    Jerry311SD

    Jerry311SD Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2016
    Member:
    #192481
    Messages:
    842
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jerry
    Ramona Ca SAN DIEGO
    Vehicle:
    2005 Tundra
    T
    What kind of jaw pullers are you guys using to get the old bearing off. I'll be doing mine soon.
     
  20. Mar 1, 2018 at 10:01 PM
    #280
    basically_stock_

    basically_stock_ 3rd Shift Lurker

    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2016
    Member:
    #174488
    Messages:
    236
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Eric
    Iowa
    Vehicle:
    2009 TRD Sport, Free & Clear
    2" lift, SCS Ray 10, Falken Wildpeak's
    A 3 jaw would work best
     
    Jerry311SD likes this.

Products Discussed in

To Top