How To: Replacing Carrier Bearing

not really looking to do that lol. I got a Haynes manual coming in the mail so maybe that will answer some of my questions. Im new to this forum so its going to take a while to search different things.

 

Yeah, the Haynes manual kinda sucks. It's good for torque specs and such, but it tries to cover too many vehicles and thus can be hard to follow. Not only that, it it arbitrarily determines for you whether or not something might be too technical, or the equipment too costly, for the DIYer and then leaves any information on it out. Case in point the diffs; it gives you no torque specs on the ring gear bolts or the carrier bearing bolts or any procedures for taking apart the front clam shell housing. The fact is, this forum is a much better DIY reference than the Haynes manual.

 

I have the center support bearing on order...so once I get the part to my house hopefully it all goes well. I'd like to replace the u-joints too...I just have to find the right part #s for my truck...*sigh*

 

Heh, mine was a breeze, it was so worn out. I didn't even have to use a puller on it. It fell off in my hand once I had it unbolted. One thing I did differently than most how-tos is I left the propeller shaft connected to the transfer case. I didn't take it all the way out. That way the engine held the shaft while I torqued the flange nut. I put a ratchet strap around the support bearing end of the propeller shaft to hold it up once the support bearing was unbolted and I loosely threaded the support bearing bolts back in the new one as it was going back in. That let it move while I torqued the flange nut. I know most people find it easier to do that stuff on the bench with a vise, but it was worth doing it under the truck for me not to have to disconnect the t-case flange...that and it held the shaft in a safer manner when I torqued the flange nut.

 

good to know...I dont have a bench with a vise YET....its on my list of stuff...lol So this is a good alternative...

 

so going to tackle this on Saturday but on a 2nd gen.. Does anyone know if the torque to set the bearing and nut is the same?? From what I can find the bearing is either the same or pretty damn close, since Rock Auto says it will fit 1st and 2nd gens

 

Haha, then this method is definitely for you.

Oh and also of note, I didn't remove the driveshaft from the diff either. I just split it at the center support flange and wired it up out of the way to the side. And don't forget to use blue locktite on the flange bolts when you go back together.

 

I couldn't really say. I would imagine there's more than a few threads on this for the 2nd gens that will tell you though.

 

didnt have to use a puller on mine neither

 

so far not getting any luck, mainly Vibe issue questions and such, not much for replacement. Keep hunting though

 

The way my luck goes I'll need a cutting torch to remove mine Cross my fingers and hope it comes out easy....

 

Im no expert but Id venture to say its prob the same torque.

 

Haha, every time I assume something is the same on 2nd gens as it is on 1st gens, it turns out to be wrong. I don't assume anything anymore, especially with this since the driveshaft arrangement on a 2nd gen is completely different (the slip yoke is on the t-case/transmission instead of at the diff which seems really stupid with the support bearing in the middle, but oh well).

 

yeah this cardan yoke thing is all new to me....why would something be made like this??lol I like the old style of u-joints pressed in where you take it to a bench and use a socket, hammer and block of wood to get the old u-joint out and also NO marking of which position the yoke came out otherwise its imbalanced

 

The double cardan (some people also call this a CV joint) allows for more flex than a single ujoint which is important if your driveshaft is short (or supported in the middle).

 

I didnt want to start a thread but is a torque wrench ok if its been sitting a while and it looks like the oil or something has leaked out of it?

 

As long as it's been stored on the minimum setting, you're probably okay (I'm assuming its the click type rather than the beam or dial type). The other types I would imagine are fine too as long as they are resting at zero.

 

Thanks, I havent used them in a long time...Im talking years...but I assumed they would be ok. I just noticed one of them had leaked oil out...maybe it was just from being in a hot garage and not being used. Im still waiting on my center bearing part to come in...so I can start that project

 

I would say that either oil was spilled on them or it's just some light preservative lube that wicked out. I don't think torque wrenches are filled with oil so if they were properly stored on the minimum setting (not looser or tighter) then I wouldn't worry too much. If you wanted, you could try to find somewhere to have them tested, but I don't know where you could do that outside of sending them back to the manufacturer to have them calibrated.

 

yeah its prob not worth the expense...ie cheaper to get a new one in that case When I was active duty we had to take the torque wench to the highest setting and break it over 6X's before we used them. That way it was consistent. I bought these at Sears many years ago, but I dont know if they have a 100% return on torque wrenches.