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How to: replacing front wheel bearing

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by CrunchyTaco, Mar 21, 2020.

  1. Mar 21, 2020 at 11:26 PM
    #1
    CrunchyTaco

    CrunchyTaco [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2011
    Member:
    #51382
    Messages:
    4
    SoCal
    Vehicle:
    2004 Dbl Cab 4x4
    This was done on a 2004 doublecab 4wd Tacoma. I've done this twice. Passenger side at 90,000 miles and then the driver side at 140,000 miles. This write-up is for the 140,000 mile one. You can tell if your bearing is going bad by: it whines as you drive down the highway, with both front wheels off the ground you spin them both by hand and the bad one will stop quicker than the good one, and if you put your foot on that flat spot to the left of your pedals while driving down the highway you can feel the vibration from a bad bearing. It will be a constant strong vibration.

    Special tools I used:
    35mm socket
    1-1/8" socket (Because I have aftermarket TC upper control arms)
    1-1/8" wrench (Because I have aftermarket TC upper control arms)
    12-ton shop press ( )
    Bearing Driver Set ( )
    Torque wrench
    Three-Jaw Gear Puller ( )
    Two-Jaw Gear Puller (similar to what I used) (https://www.amazon.com/OTC-Mechanic...1584847667&sprefix=gear+puller,aps,200&sr=8-3)
    Bench Vise
    Scrap 2x4s
    Mini Sledge
    Breaker bar
    Dead blow hammer
    Thick metal putty knife

    Parts:
    Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly 517011 (https://www.autozone.com/suspension...eel-bearing-hub-assembly-517011/704283_0_1651)

    Wheel Seal 710570 (https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and...ront/national-wheel-seal-710570/804223_0_4988)

    Wheel Seal 710571 (https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and...ront/national-wheel-seal-710571/803556_0_5770)

    Take off the wheel

    Don't take the brake off yet

    Remove the dust cap. I used a thick metal putty knife, flat head screw driver and a mini sledge.

    Dustcap (1).jpg
    Dustcap edge.jpg

    Remove the pin and castle nut cover

    Using the 35mm socket and a breaker bar remove the axle nut, put a screwdriver in one of the brake rotor slots to keep the wheel from turning

    Take the brake off, hang it by a wire, don't let it hang by the brake line

    Take the roter off, it may need a little massaging with a dead-blow hammer to convince it to come off

    Using the mini sledge hit the end of the axle to break it loose from the hub. You only want to just break it loose don't try to pound it all the way out.

    Take out the bolt for the brake sensor

    Gently rotate/wiggle the plastic brake sensor back and forth. It takes awhile, but it will eventually come out

    Loosen the bolt/nut on the upper control arm to the spindle

    Take off the brackets that are attached to the spindle arm

    Take out the 4 bolts underneath the spindle

    Take out the bolt/nut on the upper control arm

    Gently lift out the spindle, careful not to drop the axle, the axle should just slide out.

    Set the axle end on the lower control arm, keep the end of the axle clean

    Take out the bolts for the dust plate

    Set the spindle in a vise, hub side way up in the air

    Remove the seal on the open end of the spindle. I used a screwdriver and hammer

    Using the three jawed gear puller and one of the pucks from the bearing driver set, press the hub out of the spindle. I used a breaker bar and socket to turn the puller. Only press on the inner most metal ring, the bearing won't come out yet. (forgot to take a picture of this) The bearing will break into two parts. One half will stay on the hub the other will stay in the spindle.


    Spindle.jpg

    Hub.jpg


    Now we need to get the bearing out of the spindle

    Remove the gasket on the spindle, I used a hammer and screwdriver

    Gasket.jpg

    Using needle nose pliers remove the clip that holds in the bearing

    20200321_172436.jpg

    Put the spindle in the press

    20200321_172618.jpg

    Use two stacked pucks to keep them from breaking under the pressure

    20200321_172733.jpg

    Press the bearing down about 1/2 an inch, then reposition the metal plates the spindle is on to just support the edge so the bearing can come out further

    20200321_173621.jpg

    Press the bearing until it hits the bottom of the press then set the spindle on some 2x4s to get enough clearance to press it out the rest of the way. Don't throw the bearing away yet

    20200321_174029.jpg

    20200321_174150.jpg

    Now lets get the rest of the bearing off of the hub

    Put the hub in the vise and use the two jaw puller to pull the bearing off. I used a puck from the bearing driver set to stabilize the puller and I put a socket underneath because the puller wouldn't reach all the way through to the vise below. Don't throw away this part of the bearing yet

    20200321_185432.jpg
    20200321_185430.jpg

    20200321_190019.jpg


    Now just put it all back together again, it's a lot easier to press the bearing in than out

    Press the new bearing in as far as you can, it won't be fully seated yet


    20200322_121138.jpg

    Place the old bearing against the new bearing and press in the last 1/4 inch. The old bearing has a recessed lip so won't get stuck. This is what it will look like fully seated

    20200322_121123.jpg

    Put the c-clip back in

    20200322_121846.jpg

    Put the new seal on using a dead-blow hammer, tap gently and go around in circles

    20200322_122244.jpg

    Put the dust cover back on

    20200322_122558.jpg

    Press the hub into the bearing/spindle


    20200322_124142.jpg

    Put the abs ring in and press the metal collar on

    20200322_125914.jpg

    Put the other seal on. Use the edge of a 2x4 and a hammer. Don't hit the seal directly with a hammer or you'll bend it

    20200322_162532.jpg

    Put the spindle back on the truck.
    Upper control arm to spindle 80ft-lbs
    Lower 4 bolts on spindle 59ft-lbs Use loctite on these 4
    Put the 2 brackets back on the spindle
    Reinstall the ABS sensor
    Put the rotor on and screw on a couple lug nuts to get it fully seated
    Put the brake caliper on then put a screwdriver in the rotor slots and tighten the axle nut
    Brake caliper bolts 90ft-lbs

    Axle nut 174ft-lbs

    20200322_170058.jpg

    Put the castle nut cover on and the cotter pin
    Put the dust cover back on using a dead-blow hammer. Tap around the edge with the hammer
    Put the wheel on and you're done
    Lug nuts 83ft-lbs
    I didn't bother with an alignment afterwards because it drove fine without it





     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2020
    Snowman, High Noon, nagorb and 14 others like this.
  2. Jun 25, 2020 at 3:29 PM
    #2
    guineawoodwagon

    guineawoodwagon Member

    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2017
    Member:
    #226626
    Messages:
    6
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    1998 4x4 3RZ regular cab
    4x4 decal delete
    I just searched for wheel bearing replacement and found this. I went and got me a press and some bearing driver discs and now I'm about to dig in. Thanks so much.
     
  3. Jun 25, 2020 at 4:55 PM
    #3
    CrunchyTaco

    CrunchyTaco [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2011
    Member:
    #51382
    Messages:
    4
    SoCal
    Vehicle:
    2004 Dbl Cab 4x4
    I didn't support the inner race bearing either time and it worked fine nothing broke, but you make a good point, I agree the inner bearing should be supported while pressing in the hub
     
    High Noon and Taco critter like this.
  4. Jun 25, 2020 at 9:48 PM
    #4
    QMEDJoe

    QMEDJoe Proverbs 3:5-6

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2014
    Member:
    #141714
    Messages:
    2,385
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Joe
    Fleetwood NC
    Vehicle:
    2003 black DLX Tacoma,5VZ-FE,5 speed,4x4.
    Fox 2.0 Coilovers in the front and Fox 2.0’s in the rear, Total Chaos UCA’s, Al-lpro expo leafs, K&N cold air intake, TRD headers,Magnaflow catback exhaust,URD short throw shifter, switched out my 60/40 bench seat for some Tacoma Limited seats, Replaced the vinyl shift boot for a leather one, completely soundproofed the cab w/ Frost King. Replaced stock radio with a Pioneer AVH series head unit. Focal component system w/a 10" sub powered by 2 Alpine amps. Weathertech floor mats. Line-X'd the bed. SCS Ray 10’s, Installed an A.R.E. MX series camper shell. All-Pro Apex front bumper w/ All-Pro skid plates all the way back to the Trans. Low Range fuel skid plate.
    I was just driving home to N.C. from Louisiana and my rear driver side bearing started squealing. $1104 later for both sides from the stealership. I plan on doing the fronts but with OEM bearings. Thanks for the right up!
     
    Taco critter likes this.
  5. Jun 26, 2020 at 3:13 AM
    #5
    Taco critter

    Taco critter #mall crawler , patw and ,ttc#0247

    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2018
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    #272225
    Messages:
    101,554
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    John
    Douglassville /oley, pa
    Vehicle:
    02 tacoma 4x4 full mall crawler,98 4r ,96 4r ,91 2wd
    Ome 3inch ,rims ,cold air intake ,,4 crawler body lift ,cb in ashtray mod,leds, jet maf,Satoshi grille,led roof bar,yakama roof basket ,smittybilt parts,spare tire mount in hitch ,rago fabrication parts, winch bumper ,winch ,285s on wagon wheels ,traction boards ,hi lift jack,wet oaklies,smittybilt ,bamf bedrack,loads more,TOO MUCH SHIT TO LIST
    Good deal
     
    High Noon likes this.
  6. Jun 26, 2020 at 4:25 AM
    #6
    Black DOG Lila

    Black DOG Lila Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 14, 2019
    Member:
    #296344
    Messages:
    9,046
    Virginia
    Vehicle:
    2003 Tacoma SR5 2.7 5 speed 4WD
    Stock. EZ pass.Dump pass.Inspection sticker.Convict printed lic.plates.FG cap.
    Welcome aboard new member
    Nice write up
    Good work
     
    High Noon and Taco critter like this.
  7. Jun 26, 2020 at 11:40 PM
    #7
    QMEDJoe

    QMEDJoe Proverbs 3:5-6

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2014
    Member:
    #141714
    Messages:
    2,385
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Joe
    Fleetwood NC
    Vehicle:
    2003 black DLX Tacoma,5VZ-FE,5 speed,4x4.
    Fox 2.0 Coilovers in the front and Fox 2.0’s in the rear, Total Chaos UCA’s, Al-lpro expo leafs, K&N cold air intake, TRD headers,Magnaflow catback exhaust,URD short throw shifter, switched out my 60/40 bench seat for some Tacoma Limited seats, Replaced the vinyl shift boot for a leather one, completely soundproofed the cab w/ Frost King. Replaced stock radio with a Pioneer AVH series head unit. Focal component system w/a 10" sub powered by 2 Alpine amps. Weathertech floor mats. Line-X'd the bed. SCS Ray 10’s, Installed an A.R.E. MX series camper shell. All-Pro Apex front bumper w/ All-Pro skid plates all the way back to the Trans. Low Range fuel skid plate.
    I’m a 1st gen’er for life so they’ll most likely come in handy again :thumbsup:
     
    High Noon likes this.
  8. Dec 22, 2020 at 8:00 AM
    #8
    Kristi with a K

    Kristi with a K Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 19, 2017
    Member:
    #236406
    Messages:
    2,045
    Gender:
    Female
    Western MA
    Vehicle:
    01' Black (was Maroon, then red) Tacoma 4x4 SR5 ACab 3.4L AT
    G-Men sticker, driver's side "backseat" window - cracked driver's side headlight cover complete with hazy look - DIY 30 footer paint lift in Bedliner Black
    I have been trying to find a pic of the spacer's (metal collar) fully seated position, so I thank you, however I still can't quite tell if it ends up flush with the hub? I have about 1/8 in (give or take) collar excess & am nervous about pressing it further in since the resistance was amping up quite a bit.
     
  9. Dec 22, 2020 at 1:03 PM
    #9
    CrunchyTaco

    CrunchyTaco [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2011
    Member:
    #51382
    Messages:
    4
    SoCal
    Vehicle:
    2004 Dbl Cab 4x4
    The metal collar is not supposed to sit flush. It should sit around an 1/8in above the height of the hub.
     
    Kristi with a K likes this.
  10. Dec 22, 2020 at 1:33 PM
    #10
    Kristi with a K

    Kristi with a K Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 19, 2017
    Member:
    #236406
    Messages:
    2,045
    Gender:
    Female
    Western MA
    Vehicle:
    01' Black (was Maroon, then red) Tacoma 4x4 SR5 ACab 3.4L AT
    G-Men sticker, driver's side "backseat" window - cracked driver's side headlight cover complete with hazy look - DIY 30 footer paint lift in Bedliner Black
    Thank you!
     
    Wyoming09 likes this.

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