How to reset and calibrate your VSC computer - The Easy way

Took mine to the dealership. They had to reset and calibrate it with their Toyota computer. $65, plus they rotated the tires and took it through the carwash for free. I'm ok with that.

 

Well thats awesome...now you can go back to the kitchen and make me a sammi and do the dishes

 

Lights came back on, returnes to dealership. The fuse for the vsc and blown. Been a week and hasnt returned. Thought I'd share in case someone else encounters the same thing

 

Hey
I tried several times, ABS & VSC flashes but stay back ON after the procedure. I do have a code for right wheel abs sensor being faulty, could this be the reason for this procedure to fail. ?

 

Yes, probably just a plug and play repair. If you read back in this thread I believe someone discusses how they did it.

 

Hey guys, 2020 TRD Off Road 4x4 here. Really need help.

I recently upgraded from a level kit to Bilstein 5100's. In the front passenger-side, I mistakenly forgot to loosen my ABS wire harness prior to loosening up the castle nut and releasing tension from the upper control arm from the knuckle. When it released, it unfortunately pulled all it's weight on the wire harness, but didn't snap it. I continued with the install making sure that didn't happen on the driver-side. The rears are a different layout from the front, so not too concerned about those. After the install, I started the truck for a quick test drive only to find both the ABS and Slip Indicator light turned on in my dash. To accompany these, I'm also getting some error codes in the center of my dash; 1. pre collision system malfunction 2. check anti-lock brake system 3. check blind spot monitor system and 4. check vehicle stability control system.

I performed a number of continuity tests on all 4 corners of the truck on all the ABS wire harnesses, starting from the top of the abs wire harness (in the engine bay) to the bottom of the abs wire harness (connecting to the brake sensor). I was getting a solid connection and power running through all but 1 harness; the passenger-side harness that I initially stretched from the beginning. I imagine the cables inside the harness actually snapped, but rubber coating kept it intact making it look like it didn't. Before I spend money on replacing the harness ($45 from RockAuto and $71 from Toyota), I decided to splice directly into the wire harness. Once I ran a continuity test on that, I was now getting power though it! Reconnected it, and double checked all the harnessing on all 4 corners of the truck again, and everything checked out

Now my problem is that all the lights are still on in my dash. I've read dozens of threads on re-calibrating the VCS computer, but not a whole lot of info on 3rd gens, especially 2020 models. Many threads have mentioned to jump terminals 4 and 12 in the OBD connection, but it doesn't look like there's any terminals in those pin locations, at least in mine (maybe it's something about the 2020 models?). Most threads I've found are for 2nd get Tacoma's, I've seen some people comment saying they work on 3rd gens, but based on people's profiles, they have the earlier 3rd gen models.

I'm reluctant on buying a new harness if I know that my spliced one is running power just fine. I was hoping to get this cleared up before getting an alignment, but I'm also reading that it may have something to do with my steering wheel alignment throwing it off as well.



(Links to replacement wire harness for front passenger-side P/N 8951604130)

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9484220&cc=3354143&jsn=475
https://parts.toyota.com/p/Toyota_2...Wiring-Harness-Right/66839277/8951604130.html

I've attached 2 pictures.

This is of my OBD2 port. (upside down compared to OP's image in first post). The red dots are where there is a metal pin connector inside the terminal and the green line is where the threads are saying to jump/short circuit using a small paperclip or wire.


the second pic is of my passenger-side abs wire harness. the green is where the cable was stretched, each of those brackets were connected to the UCA and knuckle. You can see my red cable where I spliced into it. Again, after splicing, I ran a continuity test and it worked perfectly fine. I of course wrapped this up in electrical tape and made it look pretty after I snapped this pic

 

Personally I would not trust a homemade cable to last. Not on something as critical as ABS. (even though it looks good.) It will eventually either break loose again or it will get water in it and corrode (or both)

I would spend the $70, get a new Toyota harness in there, and then take it to a local auto parts store and see if they can clear the codes. Hopefully that will work, but may be different where they are ABS codes

 

Appreciate the response and understand your suggestion for sure. The splice job is more of a reassurance on my part so I know 100% sure that the only problem I was having is with the harness it self, and nothing else with the ECU.

Anyways, I ended up taking the truck to an Auto Collision Body Shop that focuses mainly on rebuilding Salvaged vehicles (fyi, my truck is not salvaged). I just mentioned to them my situation and the guy came out with the computer to plug into my truck. He first had a smaller computer, but didn't recognize the codes because apparently the 2020 models are different than 2019 and below... so he came back with a newer computer, and immediately recognized the fault codes. He just verified that the problem was fixed, then proceeded with erasing everything. SO NOW MY LIGHTS ARE OFF!! WOO!!! he did say that if/when the lights turn back on, then there's a bigger problem that I'd need to fix. So far, I haven't seen them come back on, so it's looking alright. Will report back if it does come back on.

 

What's the variable of just the VSC light being on? It's the only one on my dash, other than TPMS, but I know why that's on.
I've had the VSC light on for well over a year, probably closer to 2.

 

I've had an icon stage 4 setup for over a year and three alignments since then... with the most recent one settinf off the VSC light.

I've tried toggling on and off the TRAC switch, no luck. there has to be a better way to do this than manually shorting out two pins in the OBD reader.

Suggestions? My most recent alignment and rotation made the light come on.

 

Buy an ODBII cord-only on Amazon and wire a momentary ON switch between those two pins. Thats about the only option.

Or take it to the dealer..

 

Thank you Crom!! Worked great!!

 

Will this work on a 2019. I just lifted it and the pre collision went bonkers.

 

I wanna know this as well. Having the same issue.

Did a lift, alignment and no issues.

Replaced upper control arms to fix caster angle and got an alignment, now receiving pre-collision malfunction message. I tried to do the recalibration as described on the first page but I am unable to initiate the calibration while performing the steps described.

 

Yeah I’m wondering on mine... 2017 TRD sport manual trans so no fancy stuff... lifted with dobinson’s full 3”+0.5” extra in front and when I turn in a parking lot the traction light comes on and the truck goes haywire and won’t accelerate till I steer to straighten the wheel

 

Slip indicator came on and stayed on while towing RV trailer in a strong crosswind--similar to kevdog0710 (thread #219). Crom's procedure worked like a charm using a simple paper clip to reset the VSC computer. Slip indicator light now out. Probably saved about $150 over dealer resetting it. Crom.....If you got even a very small percentage of the cash you've saved everyone on this thread, you'd have a pretty healthy chunk of change! Thank you for your excellent post!
Rocky

 

I have an 09 and had the dealership recalibrate and the truck was worse...I think I'll this technique a try...meanwhile I have disconnected the connection by the brake booster and battery

 

Okay guys I need some help. The other day I left the key on in my truck and ran the battery down. I jump started with a battery pack but ever since the slip indicator light has been on, I can't seem to get it off. I've done the recalibration here twice, checked each wheel sensor by removing it and checking the resistance, check the wires going from the wheel sensors up to the first junction for continuity and they're all good, checked all the fuses and made sure the YAW sensor under the driver seat was plugged in.
When I do the calibration as Crom explained only the ABS light flashes the slip indicator stays on constant?
Advance Auto checked the codes and I got B1660 (HISTORY) C1210 & C1234.
Any ideas would greatly appreciated!!!

 

Can anyone tell me if the steering wheel position sensor has the internal ribbon for instance if it was spun too many times would it break or is it a wireless sensor in there

 

I replaced my YAW rate sensor today with a $15 shipped one from ebay (new OEM toyota the cheapest I seen was $300) and it WORKED!!! I reset it, recalibrated it and it's all good! THANK YOU EVERYONE FOR THE HELP!!!
here are some photos of the inside of the sensor (I cant just throw stuff away without ripping it apart and investigating what makes it tick) but i see no clear visual indication is faulty