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How-To: Richmond Gears Powertrax LockRight

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by rmb_crew, Jan 17, 2011.

  1. Jan 17, 2011 at 6:12 PM
    #1
    rmb_crew

    rmb_crew [OP] My other ride has 18,400HP!!!!!!

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    Jacksonville, FL 30.243103, -81.591007‎
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    Picked up a Rear locker for my 09 SR5 tacoma. I have ALSD so an open diff so it works out great. Install too about 6 hours. I did the install at a auto shop where i had access to all kinds of tools and a lift and it would have been near impossible to install at home.

    So first off up in the air the truck goes, tires come off and drain the diff.
    [​IMG]

    After that you will need to disconnect the brake lines from the drums and take off the speedo sensor plug. unbolt the axle, 4 bolts on the back side of the drum and the whole thing slides out. I had to pull mine out about 6"
    [​IMG]

    Next unbolt the driveshaft flange and get the axle out of the way. 10 bolts hold the diff in. Unbolt them and the diff slides out. It takes alittle wiggling but it will come out.
    [​IMG]

    Next you have this wonderfully looking thing.
    [​IMG]
    4 bolts on top take the carrier off and than the whole 3rd member slides out of the case. You can put the case and carrier aside since you wont need it till the reinstall.

    Next you will need to take the ring gear off. All these bolts are lock tighted in. So take an impact gun to it. Your not going to hurt this thing so go to town. The bolts are not deep so be careful not to round the head off. Once the bolts are off the ring gear is pressed on. You will need to hammer a screwdriver in and keep going round and round to open the gap. I ended up using a big pry bar once the gap was big enough to fit in there.

    Next you need to take the pinion shaft out. It is help in by a retaining pin. The hole for it is circled in red and you need to take a long punch and tap it out. Than you can tap out the pinion shaft.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Once the pinion is out than all the spider gears will come out. Keep the thrush washer. Its the round one with all the holes in it. Next assemble the pieces of the of the locker as the instructions tell you. it should look like this.
    [​IMG]

    Next install the 4 springs. You can see it in the pictures its the little blue thing in the hole
    [​IMG]


    After they are all installed if it looks like this ITS WRONG!!! THE WASHER IS BACKWARDS. STOP NOW AND CHANGE IT!!!
    [​IMG]

    You should be able to look straight through and not see any obstructions. Next you will install the pinion shaft and retaining pin.
    [​IMG]

    After it all back together you will need to reinstall the ring gear. This will need to be pressed back into place. Make sure the bolt holes are lined up correctly. And than press it into place. And install the bolts again. This is before the ring gear was pressed on.
    [​IMG]

    Once the ring gear is back on put the bearing races back on and it will go back into the diff housing and the carrier put back ontop.
    [​IMG]

    Now time to reinstall it. Clean off the matting surface for the gasket and apply a coat of whatever gasket you want. The OEM one is a paper one i went with the silicon style stuff. And throw the diff back into place.
    [​IMG]

    Reattach the drive shaft and push the rear axles back into place. Connect the brake lines and everything else that was disconnected. I gave the gasket about an hour to 45 mins to an hour to dry before filling the diff. Take this time to put the tires back on and bleed the brakes and put all the brackets back into place.

    Once the tires are on keep the wheels off the ground to check and see if you installed everything correctly. Take one wheel and spin it, the other should go the same way. and vise versa. after that simply fill the diff, the manual says use 85-140 gear oil so help keep the noise down so thats what i used. I went with dyno to break it in and than i will switch to synthetic later. Once everything is back together its time to test it out. Take it for a spin and see how it handles. I took it to a dirt lot and stomped on it to see if both tires gripped and they did so thats good. next i went to a empty parking lot and make a series of turns in both directions tight and wide to check out the handing of the locker. You will hear a very faint click as it ratchets but its only audible from outside. Success!!! Enjoy your new locker. It will feel slightly different while driving, you will sometimes feel a slight surge when making a decelerating turn, also if your driving and apply the breaks and than jump on the gas to quickly you will feel the locker thump. All this is normal. Enjoy! If you have any question feel free to ask!!!!
     
  2. Jan 17, 2011 at 6:25 PM
    #2
    The End

    The End Support our troops!

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    Great write-up, rep for you buddy.
     
  3. Jan 17, 2011 at 6:26 PM
    #3
    rmb_crew

    rmb_crew [OP] My other ride has 18,400HP!!!!!!

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    thanks.
     
  4. Jan 17, 2011 at 6:31 PM
    #4
    05RedTaco

    05RedTaco Nom Nom Nom

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    Awesome write up! Sticky material :thumbsup:

    Did you get the regular Powertrax locker or the Powertrax No-Slip locker?
     
  5. Jan 17, 2011 at 6:39 PM
    #5
    jjw1

    jjw1 Well-Known Member

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    thanks for the writeup dude. this will help when the time comes for me to get the locker
     
  6. Jan 17, 2011 at 6:48 PM
    #6
    Jason'sLawnCare

    Jason'sLawnCare Prepared for Bambi

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    Wow, you're efficient. You got this up fast.

    I'll back up what he said about the good street manners. I was impressed with how efficiently it disengages and how quiet the "ratcheting" is. I couldn't hear it most of the time even trying to listen for it.

    I'll add what I can

    I know you mention most of the required tools but I think it's easier if they are all in one place. If I forgot anything please add to it.
    Tools required:
    -Gear oil
    -sealant
    -oil bucket
    -Assortment of sockets(most of them come in a normal set with the excpetion of maybe the 24mm for the drain and fill plugs)
    -Thin flat head and a couple of different pry bars
    -Set of open ended wrenches
    -large and small punches
    -hammers and mallets
    -Ideally a press but you just may be able to get away with using a mallet to get the ring gear on
    -Very small flat head(use for springs in locker)
    -impact gun
    -breaker bar
    -torque wrench
    -lots of paper towels

    For reference or a second reference the fsm for removing and dissembling the rear 3rd is attached. It shows how to completely disassemble it but much of it isn't required for this particular application. Also the torque specs are attached.
     

    Attached Files:

  7. Jan 17, 2011 at 6:50 PM
    #7
    rmb_crew

    rmb_crew [OP] My other ride has 18,400HP!!!!!!

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    thanks for more info jason!
     
  8. Jan 17, 2011 at 6:52 PM
    #8
    Matic

    Matic Locked and Lifted "02" DC TRD.

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    Great write up!!
    Also remember that the pin to take the shaft out is tapered, so it only comes out 1 way.
     
  9. Jan 17, 2011 at 6:53 PM
    #9
    rmb_crew

    rmb_crew [OP] My other ride has 18,400HP!!!!!!

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    Jacksonville, FL 30.243103, -81.591007‎
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    Access larado tonneau, magnaflow exhaust
    The retaining pin? Mine wasnt tappered. It was the same size, unless i just got lucky putting it in the right way.
     
  10. Jan 17, 2011 at 6:54 PM
    #10
    Matic

    Matic Locked and Lifted "02" DC TRD.

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    Edit: wait. was it a roll pin or a tapered pin on yours. Could be different on select models.
     
  11. Jan 17, 2011 at 6:55 PM
    #11
    rmb_crew

    rmb_crew [OP] My other ride has 18,400HP!!!!!!

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    mine was just a straight pin.
     
  12. Jan 18, 2011 at 4:33 AM
    #12
    weiser5150

    weiser5150 Stickers and new floormats arent Mods

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    great write up Ryan!
     
  13. Jan 18, 2011 at 11:09 AM
    #13
    BlueT

    BlueT Well-Known Member

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    This step needs more info. If you do what you did and dont replace seals they will leak shortly after the work.

    There needs to be a coat of grease on teeths of lockright

    Ring and carier needs to be marked and installed the same way if gears are not re seat
    Both surface or ring and carier needs to be wiped clean and check for any metal shaving that may get in a way.
    Bolts needs to be tighten at criss cross and 10 lb intervals.
    Otherwise great wright up
     
  14. Jan 18, 2011 at 1:56 PM
    #14
    rmb_crew

    rmb_crew [OP] My other ride has 18,400HP!!!!!!

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    Thanks for the info. For the rear axles. The OEM paper ones were still in good shape so i left them. And no leaking so far. If it does start, when i drain the diff after the break in i will seal them real quick. The rest of the stuff for the internal stuff i skipped since its all included in the installation manual. Which bolts were you taking about for the tightening in criss cross.
     
  15. Jan 19, 2011 at 10:02 AM
    #15
    BlueT

    BlueT Well-Known Member

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    Not sure which one you talking about but I was talking about rubber inner axle seals. They have spring that usually gets bend out of shape when you ret axles like that. Then rubber starts wearing in odd places and they leak.

    ones on carrier/ring. I hand tight all the bolts then use torque wrench to torque them starting at 10 ft-lb then 20 , then 30 etc. And I thighten then in cross pattern so bolt at 12 oclock then bolt at 6 then bolt at 1 then bolt at 7 oclock and so on.
    Its probably good to mention all bolts need blue loctite on them
     
  16. Feb 14, 2011 at 7:33 PM
    #16
    SargeSlapnuts

    SargeSlapnuts SargeSlapnuts 보고용의!!!!

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    good write upthis should do it for me.
     
  17. Mar 6, 2011 at 11:46 PM
    #17
    woody6047

    woody6047 McGrubber

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    Forgot to say thanks, this is what i used when i did mine! :thumbsup:
     
  18. Mar 7, 2011 at 4:07 PM
    #18
    rmb_crew

    rmb_crew [OP] My other ride has 18,400HP!!!!!!

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    No problem. Glad it helped.
     
  19. Mar 7, 2011 at 6:26 PM
    #19
    BRP27

    BRP27 When I grow up I want to be just like Me

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    Great write up

    OP says this install would be near impossible in a home shop. It looks like it would be easier with the lift and other big shop tools, but pressing the ring gear could be done at a shop after the pumpkin is pulled. So can this be done in a home garage with jack stands and other tools?

    Anyone done this in their home garage with advanced shade tree mechanic tools and a trip or two to a shop with a press?
     
  20. Mar 7, 2011 at 7:11 PM
    #20
    rmb_crew

    rmb_crew [OP] My other ride has 18,400HP!!!!!!

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    the second time i did it in my driveway but had to go to a shop where they had a press to work on the 3rd. so its possible in your driveway if you have a place to work on it.
     
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