How to strip/remove my wax?

i've been unable to find a thread devoted exclusively to wax removal. I've stumbled upon comments where guys say things like "don't wash your truck with dish soap, it'll strip your wax", etc., but nothing specific about the subject itself. I've been waxing with some cheap-o wax for several months. But I want to start over and do a legit detail with a sealant like chemical guys and top it with Collinite. Before I make that investment in $50 worth of product and several hours of my time, I really want to make sure I'm applying it to a good surface. So, what can I do to make sure I get all the old wax off? Or should I just not worry about it and go right on ahead with the sealant?

 

I've also read that dish soap is hell on clear coats, so even if it removes the wax perhaps that's not the way to go?

 

You want to use a clay bar. Wash your car with a good car shampoo such as meguiar's. then go panel by panel spraying detail mist and going over it with the clay bar, kneading it ocasionally as you go. This is the time to color sand, buff out, or touch up any scratches you may have. Spend some extra time on the roof, maybe even go over it twice. Now wax with your favorite wax and enjoy the shine. If you want any more tips I've listed quite a few in this thread https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/paint-issues-clear-coat-failure.377795/

 

Thanks. It's basically a new truck. Got it in October of last year and it hasn't seen any off road yet. it's always Been in a garage and washed weekly, so I didn't think it would need the clay. Also, I didn't know that clay would remove wax.

 

The clay removes some wax and dirt in the wax, it makes a big difference. If you want to start fresh though, find a paint cleaner. Meguires has a kit that is pretty cheap, or go with a one step cleanser.

 

Please becareful if you plan to use products like these. They are essentially acetone suspended in a lubricating paste. When used correctly they are safe on clear coats, they do slightly soften it for a very short time until the acetone evaporates at which point the paint rehardens (which is why it can hide very small scratches and swirls without abrassives). This leads to potential fingermarking, which leads to clay, buff, and rewax in a best case scenario. http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/20496-fingermarks.html

 

Thanks- I didn't think I needed a "polish" on a virtually new vehicle (why cause unnecessary wear on a virtually brand new clear coat), but it sounds like this product is exactly what I need- non-abrasive and specifically for a new (or like-new) finish.

I'll probably run with this product, as it sounds right on, but if anyone has additional products or methods, I'm interested in hearing about them. Thanks again, Artruck.

 

Thanks very much for this comment. That is an essential detail.

 

Would a sealer ever have a similar effect as what you mention above regarding something like the four star pre-wax cleaner? Now I'm leaning toward just a simple wash-clay-wax cycle and skipping the cleaner and sealer all together. I can see no reason to apply a product that would soften an essentially new car finish, if even temporarily. This ain't no show car. I just want to protect my new truck the best I can. Maybe a good old fashioned wax job with a couple coats of Collinite 887 would do the trick.

 

Wash/Clay/Seal/Wax (if you want)

Sealants are stronger than a simple wax. Sealants (depending on which one you choose) will last up to 6 months or more. Wax maybe 3-5 weeks. I dont use wax anymore as its not necessary as far as i see it. New sealants provide the protection you want and the shine you desire. There was a time/place for a wax, i dont see a place for them anymore.

 

No, a sealer is going to act like a wax and fill in the pores and will protect it for several months.

This has been argued for years. liquid waxes are the ones that only last weeks, and it's usually estimated at 6-8. Paste waxes have estimates ranging from 3 months to 12 months. All paint protection products will vary based on what they have to go through. The more damaging the environment the more often you'll have to do it. The more you wash it the more often you'll have to do it. When i had to worry about such things I would base whether or not it needed it by feel after washing. After you wash and dry a dirty car feel the paint. Then clay bar and apply wax or sealant and feel that. Remember those 2 feelings. As I said in the other thread, areas like the roof take the most abuse and should be checked more often. You really cant go wrong any way you do it as you're taking better care of your truck than 90% of vehicle owners out there do.

 

Lol k

 

Do you see any issues with using Collinite 845 over wizards supreme seal? The Wizards is labeled "super acrylic gloss" and as "creating a high gloss acrylic finish" (are all sealers acrylic???).

I'm pretty sure the Collinite has a petroleum based component (it sure smells like it). Yup- I just checked- and it says "contains petroleum distillates". Can this go down over an acrylic?

Links:

http://wizardsproducts.com/supreme-seal-12-oz/
http://wizardsproducts.com/content/pdfs/Supreme-Seal.pdf

http://www.collinite.com/automotive-wax/insulator-wax/

 

Well, I passed on the wizards. Ended up going with synthetic sealant 2.0 #21 after claying and I couldn't be happier. I'm completely blown away. Being a 2014 and being cautious with past washes, there wasn't a lot of swirls in the paint. But whatever was there is GONE. I even had one long 2 foot scratch on the hood that was from a piece of grit in a towel several washes back... Thought it would take a buffer to get it out. Nope. It was mostly gone after the first coat of sealer. Completely gone after the second coat. All of the scratches under the door handles- gone. Seriously, this stuff is amazing. And now I know what people are talking about when they say sealers give a "candy" coat appearance. This thing looks like a tootsie pop now. But in a good way. The second coat definitely added to the first, for those wondering about layering. I can't wait to get a coat of Collinite on top! Think I'm going to let it sit for a week before applying the wax. Thanks fir your advice, guys.

 

Glad you're happy! how about a few pics!

 

I haven't applied the Collinite yet.

 

I always use Chemical Guys citrus wash before I do my annual clay/polish/sealant routine.

 

I picked up some Meguires Ultimate Liquid Wax and put it on my tailgate yesterday. Awesome shine. Honestly, I think it shines better than the #21 (and it's much easier to find locally). Wishing this 21 would weather away so I can try the ultimate on the whole truck! I'm wondering if I can just apply it on top of the 21. It seemed to work well enough on the tailgate, but I didn't want to press my luck.