How to Toytec lift install by "SMTRDSPORT"

Tougher!

 

As far as getting a spring compressor i would take your shocks to a suspension shop and have them do it. They won't charge you that much and its a lot easier.

 

Any shop will do it for you. They mostly have heavy duty wall mounted compressors. I believe I was charged $25 and it took all of 15 minutes. Well worth it.

 

Okay, I am completely done with my Toytec 3" lift. The back took 4 hours and the front took 8 hours! The front is definitely tougher especially if you don't have a coil compressor! haha! However, I found a great video on youtube that shows you had to install coils without one. (search Tacoma, coils install)
The thing is, I had rented a compressor but it was broken. By the time I discovered this my truck was in pieces. The first coil/spacer took 6 hours, the next one took 1.5 hours! We drove it around and have no vibrations, pull, or shake so I'd say it was a success. I'm going to put another 10-20miles on it then get an alignment and have them double check my torques.

 

I'm looking at this install to do 5100's. Everything is the same up until assembling the coil. Anyway my question is about torque, should there be any torque specifications for any components in this install? Also what about thread lock? Good idea?

I plan to take mine to a shop for the assembly after looking at the coil spring compressors that the auto parts stores offer.

 

Threat lock will make it a mofo to get off later. Just put torque lines on the bolts after you go back and tighten everything up after 100 miles or so. This way you'll be able to tell if they're loosening.

 

That's a good idea. I was a bit scared after seeing the thread on here where the guys rear 5100 came loose and punctured the bed floor. But I'm one that tends to over do it if anything as far as making sure it's tight so I'm sure it wouldn't be a problem.

 

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Well I installed the rears 5100's myself, then remembered one of my jack stands was jammed in the lowest position and didn't have some of the tools I needed which I thought I had, then found NTB would install the fronts for only $100 so I went went for it. Was gonna cost me about $50 just to have someone swap the coils over anyway.

So anyone in the Hall/Gwinnett GA area looking for a place look at NTB in Buford, they said they do 5100's all the time.

 

The Toytec instructions pretty much will get you there. The only thing I would say needs more explanation is keeping the leafs aligned with the center pin hole. I have a 2012 Tacoma with the 3 leaf pack plus one emergency leaf on bottom. (The inverted one)

What I found works best is to clamp the top 3 leafs together before you even take the center pin out. Then take it out and place the add a leaf under the 3 connected leafs and on top of the emergency leaf.
You clamp the three leafs because its a bitch to get them back once they are out of line with each other. And the Add a leaf and bottom emergency leaf can move independently of the three top leafs that are bound together.
Also follow the instructions and don't bring the leafs together by tightening the center pin. I got a stripped center pin doing this. Use the clamps

 

Great instructions.

I am still on the front end with the spacers. I tried marking the struts where I thought I was supposed to but I guess I didn't do it right.

After exhausting myself using a rental coil compressor and open end wrench I took my struts up to many shops and toyota who all told me no! Unroll I found one shop who charged me 75 to put the spacers on for me.

I'm pretty sure they both had slopes on the strut plates but now that I got them back, one is level while the other still slopes. I put them back on and the level one went in easy, and the lower control arm went on easy.
Now the one with the slope seems to have a gap between the thin plate and strut plate. Normal??
And the lca seems so far away to put the two bolts in the bottom and I can't get it to move.

Any suggestions??

 

Thank you very much as I was able to use these directions. I rented that coil compressor from autozone but it sucked. Took my struts to a shop who charged me 75 do do it cuz no one else would touch them. Rip off.

On the rear end how ever I did find ratchet straps to be helpful after lowering it so I could move it around and such while putting in the new leaf springs.

 

Does anyone know the torque setting for the lower ball joint?

 

I have heard that you don't want to install the diff drop kit on second gens, is this true?

 

i have also heard this and want to know why. I believe I saw something a few months ago on another form, that a guy was getting new noises from his cv joints caused by the diff drop.

In my situation I am leveling a 2011 trd 4x4 dbcb on stock 17" wheels with the 5100 billies kit from bilsteinlift.com. That includes everything needed (new shocks and springs and AAL). My question is the diff drop needed to level the truck, I am a light off-roader. The biggest stress the truck commonly sees is pulling my boat out of the water on a rutted mud trail.

The suspension upgrade is for better handling and to reduce rubbing for the 265/70/17 tires


Thank you for your help

 

I am about to install the full OME kit (Heavy - 886s) which gives about 2" of lift after installing the ARB bumper and a winch, and they include the diff drop component with the kit. They designed everything to work together and I trust them so I would say based on that I am not concerned about using them on 2nd Gen's

 

Subd

 

Whats the next thing after lifting 3" ? UCA AND LOWER?

 

This may be a stupid question. If I get the toytec ultimate kit and the front suspension is adjustable up to 3" and I wanna do the AAL for the rear, what height do I put the front so the entire truck is level? 3" in front with one leaf in back? I have a 2011 double cab trd sport. Thanks.

 

Were you able to reconnect the rear break line brackets back to the factory thread on the leaf bracket? I lifted mine and it looks like they will go back on (really really tight) but I'm afraid if my truck gets jacked up or lifted that the line will break off or tear from the tire dropping lower.