How to tuck the headliner in properly

Hi all,

I put a wire behind the headliner and ran it down my A-pillar.. but now the headliner doesn't seat back properly as it used to. See pictures.. Any advice?

http://i.imgur.com/Q2nwd7g.jpg

 

Post a live link....

 

Reason I never tear apart (nor pay anyone to tear apart) the interior of my brand new vehicles.

 

Here was his image:

 

On my 2nd gen the first time I dropped the front part of the headliner to run wires, it wouldn't sit right and turned out it just needed to be popped back up past the rear view mirror bracket.

Otherwise if that isn't the problem id just remove the driver side sun visor and fumble with it till it sits right.

 

Time to go 70's chevy, just rip the headliner out...that way you can put your cigarettes out on it.....but really that sucks....

 

In all honesty though,.. i wasn't tearing things apart as you could imagine. And was careful as the next guy. And the headliner isn't glued up front you know.. you could reach with your fingers and tuck in any wires. In my case however, I had cables from my rear view display, cable from my dashcam, and my scanguage.. so I had to spend a bit of time up there.. but after I put everything together I noticed the gap. :-/.. I have double sided industrial strength velcro. I could velcro it shut.. just wanted to see any other suggestions, thats all. Im just upset the construction of the liner isn't as well made, rigid as I've seen on some older BMW's... ah, they got to keep the price affordable somewhere for us to enjoy the truyck.

 

Yes, no tabs or anything either. It's ok. I got double sided industrial grade velcro. I need to take down the entire roof liner anyway.. so when I put it back I'd do it right with velco and everything. So this was a good to know. I got lots of work underneath it coming.. and run wires etc. THey just don't make car's parts as good quality like they once did. I remember my old lexus had the liner done so neatly, with nice hex nuts and locking tabs.

 

Lol You obviously we're pulling down on the headliner pretty hard you only need to pull it down about 1" and tuck the wiring up inside it. If your trying to do anything more than you needed to drop the headliner. That looks like you pulled it down atleast 4" or more

 

Maybe yes... my friend was helping me too, and he was on that side, while I was working another end (divided up projects). And we needed more than 1" to work with. I'll need to drop the whole thing anyway, so when I put it back, I'd do it right. Do some sound proofing, run the wires, and use velcro to seal it tight and nice.

 

Just a FYI a lot of times there isn't a way to get it to Velcro to the roof. Either the material won't adhere well to the headliner material or there isn't anything to secure the other side to. Usually a big gap between the metal and the headliner. If your taking the whole headliner you might be able to form it back a bit to its original shape. Also to get the headliner out at minimum your probably going to need to pull the seats out, to get it out without creasing it

 

Hope you can get her fixed....like @smitty99 had to say...

 

Hi lives_at_bacon_st - you might want to take a look at this thread: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...g-sound-deadening.394469/page-7#post-12604276. Taking the headliner down is not a
big deal, just take your time. One thing I did not include in my description is there
are three connectors (one on each alpha pillar and one at the passenger side
charlie pillar) that must be disconnected to completely remove the headliner.
The dome light in the middle of the cab can stay with the headliner. The
electrical components slip out of the housing and reassembly is simple. I don't
think the headliner is cardboard, but rather molded closed cell foam (ccf) with
headliner material glued to it. The two rectangular clips above the rear doors
are replaceable (see my entry for the URL) for about $8.00 each. I did not find
a way to remove them so they could be reused. There is a seam with
indentations that looks like it was intended to be reusable. Using a probe in
the first one I unsuccessfully tried to release the spring clip tension holding
it in place. I finally gave up and pried the two pieces apart (they were
"welded" together using heat). I could have glued them back together but
the plastic was pretty munged up so I just replaced them. I actually ordered
four of those clips just in case I ever want to drop the headliner in the future.
I glued two layers of 3/16" EzCool (more ccf) to the roof, using 3M's General
Purpose Trim Adhesive (3088) and reassembled the headliner. Now there are
two layers of ccf glued to the roof, an air void and the headliner's ccf. Don't
forget to reconnect those three connectors on the pillars. If you are planning to
insulate your roof, don't miss the opportunity to put a couple of layers in the
metal frame for the overhead console, you won't burn your head the next time
you put your sunglasses on!

 

Oh, if you lay your headliner in the sunshine (material side up) while you work on
your roof, wiring, etc., it will probably return to its original shape by the time you
are ready to reinstall it.