How To: Upgrade your gauge cluster from SR to SR5+

I guess I am going to have to call dmv before doing it...

Maybe it is super cheap and just the sticker would be enough for me, but I need to know how to proceed before starting because I bet there’s no way back once you disconnect the old one...

 

@Bob_Lee_Swagger how do you managed the discrepancy on the miles with the new cluster?

Are you running your new cluster with the incorrect miles?

 

I'd assume the differences all probably have to do with engine, cruise control, 4x4, navigation etc. They're all going to have the same hardware, just most likely different software to lock/unlock the features.

 

Here is a bit of info that I noticed on my center dash cluster after swapping out my "stock" 6 inch entune radio for a 7 inch Premium Radio.
There has been some changes in the display- remember I did nothing to the cluster. I have noticed the Compass changed and I now have a speed sign in the display that shows a different color when I drive over the posted limit. There may be more changes -that I have yet to notice?
Sooo -- in conclusion -- I think there all sorts of features "built in" to the cluster that can maybe "unlocked" by doing who knows what, or adding/changing parts/pieces?

 

I got a hold of some steering wheel controls with out the wiring harness attached. Come to find out Toyota has no part number for just the harness. They have the two controls and harness under one number. So now I am going to attempt to make a harness. Can one of you guys help me out by taking a picture of the 3 connectors to help me out in this process. I have searched but can't find the wiring diagram for anything before the Spiral Connector. Thanks in advance.

 

What Toyota is the right steering wheel pad from? Your original post shows one that has buttons for parking assist and back up radar maybe?

 

From my research Toyota sells them as a set (including the wiring harness)with only one part number for both. Part number I got from my local Toyota dealership is 84250-04050. Below is the invoice and diagram I got from the parts guy.

 

Not looking to buy one, just curious about which Toyota the OP's pad came from since mine looks different. Wife's 4Runner has similar steering wheel but the volume buttons are the phone buttons in my truck.

4th picture down in the original post.

 

Today I tested my new cluster and wheel controls but the wheel controls didn’t worked..

@Bob_Lee_Swagger I bought a complete set of left and right steering wheel controls with the wiring.. I connected the mint and purple wire together (NOT using an inch of extra wire) on the right side of the wiring harness (on the end that connect to the right controls) and the controls had backlit and the right control worked BUT the right one didn’t...

Any guess why it didn’t work????

Thanks!!!

 

I'm still debating on whether or not I'm going to post this info. There are two ways to do it yourself and if you really wanted to you could figure it out. Problem being is if I post that info here then I'm giving people step by step instructions on how to commit odometer fraud on this and a ton of other vehicles.

I wouldn't be so sure about it voiding your warranty. If it did, it would only be on the cluster, not your whole truck. My truck didn't come with cruise control, I purchased the kit from the dealer and installed it myself and they said it would still be covered under warranty. The dealer can't blindly say that your warranty is voided for no reason. They have to have proof that can be backed up. They can't just say "you replaced your speakers with aftermarket ones and that's why your radio is broken so you voided your warranty." Although they can (and probably will) say that the cluster didn't come with the truck so they won't cover any damage to it even though it's an OEM part.

The gauge cluster can be powered outside of the car by supplying +12V to pins 19 & 20 and ground to 17 & 18 of the 40 pin connector (top right is pin 1, top left is pin 20). Take the truck to the dealer or DMV show them the cluster in the truck and the one you're replacing it with, then do the work have them confirm the mileage again and get yourself a sticker. I don't condone "lying" but the DMV may want to know why you are swapping and "b/c I feel like it" probably isn't a sufficient answer for them

The correct way to do it is buy the gauge cluster and controls brand new from the dealer, have them lock your truck away for 3 weeks while they get the new cluster programmed to match your truck, then have them install it. It'll probably only run you like $3k

 

I may make a write up on that as well if I decide one way or the other. I'd like to help you guys with the odometer problems but I also don't want to help anyone commit odometer fraud either. The two possible methods are pretty much the same throughout any car so if anyone were to happen upon my info they could potentially use it to screw buyers over.

 

So you have an SR5, upgraded the radio from the entune to navigation unit and got a compass and speed limit sign automatically on your gauge cluster. I'd assume they weren't there before? Or did they just slightly change? Right now, I don't have a compass, cruise indicators, radio info, speed limit sign or any of that.

 

I understand you.... I don’t know.. you could charge for fixing the mileage if you want (I prefer to pay you to do it than pay someone else) other option is send the “how to” through private message... at the very end you are responsible for your truck only...

Again, thanks for taking the time to do the writeup for the swap...

 

I'll go through my extra photo's that I didn't post and see if I have some. Otherwise you'll need someone else to help you out with pictures.

The left and right pads are from a 2017 Tacoma TRD OR I believe. The two bottom buttons on the right pad are lane departure assist and front radar (it's used to auto control cruise control based on the speed of the vehicle in front of you). Since I don't have the hardware for any of that, I've been thinking about using those as toggle switches for a light bar, amp cutoff switch etc. that way everything stays OEM looking and I have no wasted buttons.

Could you clarify a little. Are both backlit? Which side of the controls aren't working? Left or Right?

 

@Bob_Lee_Swagger

So I bought a complete set of left/right controls and wiring harness...
you said that in order to get backlit on both controls, we have to connect the mint and purple cables.. on the pictures that you posted, it looks that you welded the cables on the right side of the harness, in other words, you welded together both cables next to the right control connector right?
I did that, and both controls had backlit when I turned on the lights but my right control didn’t worked... the left one did work..

I hope not bought a faulty right control...

 

I like the moxie involved with this modification. Definitely not buttons on the 2017 steering wheel. I thought the 2018 buttons for those functions were on the dash somewhere?

 

Do you have lane departure assist and front radar equipped on your vehicle? If you don't then you aren't going to have the buttons for them either.

 

The two wires were soldered together and then insulated with electrical tape and then wrapped with the entire harness again. There are a few possibilities.

1) Faulty control pad
2) If you didn't insulate the splice, it could have grounded out on the steering wheel and destroyed the control pad
3) If you have a utility model or a different model (I have a SR V6 4x4 so I can only speak to that) it's possible that the truck isn't wired from the spiral cable to the gauge cluster for the right hand controls

 

I did insulate the cables pretty good.. I’m sure of of that.. so is not op 2...
Hopefully your sr and my sr are wired the same... BUT yours is 2018 and mine is Jan 2016... assembled in 2015... so maybe that is a problem... fack....
Faulty control? I’m not electrician so I just can sold the cables again “better” and try again... and hope the best....

 

The purple wire is the ground for the illumination and the mint wire is the ground for control switches themselves. You're essentially "stealing" ground from the mint wire and feeding it to the purple wire for the illumination meaning if the backlit is working then the controls should be working as well. It's possible that you may have messed up the splice and are now not receiving ground to the controls themselves. If that all checks out then I'd try tracing wires from the right steering pad, through the spiral cable and to the gauge cluster to make sure you do have the wiring for it.