How would you remove/repair this rust?

Yeah I agree. It’s a one and done never coming out type of thing lol. It actually has stayed very clean inside the frame. Not picking up a ton of road crud like the outside. Its also maintained its amber hue on the inside so I can see it’s still intact where I’ve sprayed.

I’ve also found best way to get it off is just take a rag to it. I’ve never actually totally removed it though. I had to wipe it off my frame to mount some bolt on sliders to my GX470. I replaced it on the outside with wool wax.

 

No, the grille is aftermarket. I got mine off eBay. Search up “2nd generation Tacoma pro grille” on google and you’ll find it. I bought mine when the design first came out and I think the grilles are sold on many websites now.

 

ID say your fine.That's literally nothing, at that rate of corrosion I bet if you did nothing you would still get another 15 years out of it. It looks amazing for a 2010. If you were to protect the area probably last forever. New trucks in NY look worse then that after a year old.

 

Good to know. I don’t think my frame has the same support braces as yours.

 

So tried ordering and says will send shipping quote after placing order . Passed . But checked my frame . Cherry.

 

Nice! Looks almost new under there haha

Gonna place my order too in the next few days.

 

But you're from Hawaii! Rust doesn't look too bad for the year if you're from the northeast,U.S. My Tacoma is 2009. I needle scaled, then POR15'd(2 coats) my frame on the outside(2nd time), and internal frame coated inside the frame a while ago. Today I used almost a gallon of LPS3 under the entire truck except engine bottom, trans, and exhaust. I did inside and outside of frame. I'm hoping this will keep frame and underbody rust away this winter. I opted not to have Toyota dealer treat my frame.

 

Update.

So, I originally wanted to use Eastwood’s Internal Frame Coating to address my problem. Unfortunately, Eastwood cannot ship this product to Hawaii because it is considered a hazardous material and the company has no distributors in the islands (heads up to other 808 members)

After many hours of research and debating on what to do, I decided to use POR-15. Despite the many mixed reviews on the product, I used it once before with good results.

In order for the product to work properly, it is necessary to first use a degreaser to thoroughly clean the work area, then use their metal prep product to etch the metal. In my case, I added a step before the degreaser. POR-15 offers a rust dissolver product that supposedly helps convert heavier rust. For all three of the above products, I first taped up the drain holes on the bottom of the frame, then used a garden sprayer to apply the product inside the frame. For good measure, I also poured the product into the frame and let it sit before thoroughly rinsing the frame out.

The only problem now was deciding how to apply the POR-15 itself. I’ve never used air spray equipment for paint, so I didn’t feel comfortable going that route. POR-15 has “daubers” which are basically a length of flexible metal with wool attached on two ends. They allow you to paint hard to reach areas. To paint deep inside the frame, I ended up using the daubers attached to a length of flexible plumbing auger. I also wrapped a large clean rag onto the end of the auger to get any areas I may have missed with the daubers.

Although it was probably not necessary for my application, I also used POR’s Top Coat product as well as Rust-Oleum’s High Performance Enamel spray paint as a final top coat and to cover any nooks and crannies I may have missed before. In all, I ended up applying 5 coats of POR-15, 2 coats of the Top Coat and 3 coats of the Rust-Oleum to the frame. It helped living in a humid environment, as the POR products were tacky and ready for another coat in about 30-45 minutes, so applying multiple coats was easy.

I feel confident that this will stop the rust. Wish I would have checked my frame more regularly, then maybe I would have caught the problem earlier and all of this work could have been avoided.



Products used. I already had the older version of their Metal-Prep product leftover from my first POR-15 project.



Wool daubers attached to the auger.



A rag zip-tied to the auger that I dipped in POR-15 to apply the product.



Rust-Oleum Enamel



All better. Ignore the dust. The paint was thoroughly dried before it was exposed to dusty conditions.

 

Oh, I should probably add that before I did all of this, I used a telescoping magnet to first get all of the loose scale out from the frame, brushed it and removed the additional loose scale. Definitely wouldn’t want to paint over all that crap.

 

I would try running a dryer vent brush though the tunnel. I have the kit and use it once per year to reduce lint buildup and I think that the stiff brush (designed for 4" diameter vent pipe) would clean the area well. The kit came with fiberglass extension rods which you can put together & use a drill to rotate to clean the flake rust from the inside of the frame rail.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardus-LintEater-Jr-Rotary-Dryer-Vent-Cleaning-Kit-RJR601/206714873?

 

FYI you can get the Eastwood green frame internal coating from I'm assuming it will ship to Hawaii Amazon or other places that Eastwood can't ship https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07Q5HBB48/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07Q5HBB48&pd_rd_w=5bOjy&pf_rd_p=7d37a48b-2b1a-4373-8c1a-bdcc5da66be9&pd_rd_wg=Sd3Vq&pf_rd_r=ZYZS51EDPWYV66TTJYA8&pd_rd_r=251375c9-b8ad-4bd5-8820-6e19409fe561&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExUDdSUTNKVVg1UjdXJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjAyODg3MURRUUkyM1ROV1o1MCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTM1MDE2TEFYTEZCNVFJUEZRJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ%3D%3D

 

You do realize, your frame looks better than most on here. It's great that you're addressing it but it really does look good, even if your truck was only a couple of years old.
I think you'll be fine. In the coming months, once you know the paint is fully cured, you can hose some Fluid Film or Liquid Wrench up in there and it will creep into the places the paint missed. It's kind of a 'belt and suspenders' approach.

 

That’s my plan. Most likely gonna apply Fluid Film or something similar in the boxed section of the frame when I know the paint is fully and thoroughly cured.