Howdy folks!

Hey guys so I posted a while back where at that past time I had a no CEL no crank no start issue. I got tired of messin with it and I have a good buddy who owns a junkyard of which rarely but luckily he just so happened to have an O5 4Runner 4.0 V6 1GRFE 4X4 come in the yard. So with getting the buddy deal super dirt cheap I replaced the engine bay fuse box, drivers side interior fuse box, engine bay wiring harness, and ECU. ALL THE PROBLEMS FROM THE NO CEL NO CRANK NO START ISSUE IMMEDIATELY WENT AWAY AND REMAIN NON EXISTENT TO THIS DAY.

HOWEVER NOW I HAVE A NEW PROBLEM...IMAGINE THAT!

So picture yourself If you will going to get in your truck to take off running errands for the day. Turn key...click, click, click like battery is dead, hmmm I just bought this brand new battery so that's odd but let's jump it. Truck starts right up, sit there for a minute...idles perfectly...purring like a kitten.

So take off down the road about 65 mph for about 10 miles and it starts sputtering like it's outta gas for about a mile...then dies. Try to start it back and guess what...clickity, clack, clack, this is wack, again. Jump it again to make it back home, fires right up , except this time it only goes about 3 miles, until we get to play this same lame song on repeat again.

Finally make it back home (by coasting into driveway after it died again) and immediately perform my version (possibly wrong?) Of parasitic draw test which is disconnecting + battery lead from battery and connecting test light in between + battery post and + battery lead.
Where it lights up like the 4th of July at max brightness while unplugging all fuses 1 at a time with test light brightness remaining unaffected until I get to the 20A EFI and 10A ETCS fuse where it goes out completely not by just unplugging 1 of each of those fuses but by unplugging both of them and neither of which are blown and brightness level of test light is unaffected unless both are unplugged at same time. I know you're supposed to do 1 fuse at a time and put it back but I just removed 1 at a time and left them out meaning all fuses and relays are unplugged and engine bay fuse box is completely empty of fuses and relays during this time except for the bolted in 140A ALT and 60A HTR fuses with the 20A EFI & 10A ETCS fuses being the only ones to have any effect on test light.

Any thoughts or ideas?

@TnShooter

 

2005 4Runner with 4.0 V6 1GRFE out of 2007 Tacoma

 

Sounds like a ground issue to me...make sure theyre all good

 

I don't have access to complete diagrams on the 4Runner.
But it sounds like a ground issue to me too.
The fact that it starts up every time you jump it tells me it’s likely a ground problem.

You need to to a voltage drop test at the starter.
@Dm93 has a good article on testing powers and grounds ate the starter.

 

Have you checked if the alternator is charging?

Using a test light to check parasitic draw on any vehicle newer than the 80s isn't a valid test, you need to use an inline or clamp on ammeter to check current draw and if it's out of spec >50mA then check voltage drop across each fuse to find the circuit that is using current.

https://youtu.be/H84FI9ub8_8?si=olSpWIMZwYPVIQKD

 

All good points and thanks guys.

Gonna check all grounds. I'm familiar with voltage drop but my meter is at work 45 miles away so that's not an option at this time.

I did unhook the negative from battery while it was running and it stayed running if that counts as altenator check...normally I would check for 14v output but ya know...my meter so jus gonna go add a ground cable from somewhere on block to frame now and hope that works?

 

Not sure on newer electronics if the ole negative battery cable thing works anymore....

 

I've now got 2 #2 cables ran from the engine block (under starter) to the frame, 1 #2 cable ran from the frame to the battery, 1 #4 cable ran from the frame to body of alternator to the frame, and 1 #8 cable ran from the battery to the body. So one would think that would cancel out any chances of it being a ground issue. Right or am I missing something here? Of course the grounds from ECU are ran to the right and left rear of each cylinder head. What am I missing? Other than not being able to conduct a V drop test at this time without a meter.

Thanks fellas

 

Not sure neither...bet I don't leave my meter at work anymore...buy a Toyota you'll never have to work on it...they said. Great trucks no doubt but pretty sure I got an exception to that rule or the fact that I myself have been working on it is probably the problem...truth be told

 

I wouldn't think there would be a ground problem with all those grounds.
Did you check the alternator / charging system?

 

Thanks for the reply @TnShooter I need all the help I can get at this point, gotta be @ work in the am and no clue how I'm gonna get there. I don't have my meter to check V output from alternator but I did unhook the ground cable from battery with it running (after I jumped it again of course) and it stayed running with ground cable unhooked

 

With the ground cable unhooked, it stayed running?
Or the positive cable unhooked?

BTW, this isn't a good idea to do on new cars.
You are better off with a meter and amp clamp.

 

Hold up a sec let me go jump it again and see what happens.

I understand not a good idea but my meter is at work

 

Yeah my bad duh I told you backwards with the + cable unhooked it dies actually but that is also with the positive cable coming from the engine bay fuse box unhooked along with + cable which would need to remain hooked up or of course it would die in any scenario right or no?

 

And does the throttle body on your truck make noise with the key in the on position cause mine does

 

Jumping it with #14 wire from M18 (Milwaukee) 5A drill battery by the way so apparently it doesn't need much?

 

Not that I have ever heard.
But I can't say I've had the ignition on with the hood up to hear it.
Either the keys are in my pocket, or the truck is running.

I'll have to check and see tomorrow.

 

@TnShooter must be nice...haha...jk. Yes please check and lmk if ya don't mind boss cause I'm like you don't think it's supposed to neither so perhaps mine is shorted somehow and that's my entire problemo?

 

Well folks think I may of found a problem. The starter bolt like the one that comes from inside the starter that the + battery cable mounts onto is loose like I can wiggle it around with my fingers. Can it be tightened up somehow or do I gotta replace the whole dam starter?
@TnShooter
@Dm93

 

It's just a stud bolt so thinking I should be able to jam nut tighten it back up?