Howdy folks!

You'll need to tighten it up.
If the stud is spinning in the starter, you'll need to use the jam nut method IF there is enough room on the stud for 2 nuts.
If not, you'll have to get creative. I'd almost need to be there and see it to give you some more ideas.
Once you get the first nut down semi-snug the stud will tighten up on it's own.

 

Copy thanks @TnShooter knew I could count on you man.
Keep on keepin on

 

Hey yo! @TnShooter You the man!

That fixed my clickity click clack starting issue. Fires right up without jumping it or any of that nonsense now.

Haven't driven it yet tho so now to figure out what the "sputtering" and eventually dying issue was all about to begin with...

unless that was all one in the same with that loose starter bolt. Could I get that lucky for once?

Gotta put ALT back on now took it off earlier thinking that was my issue...thankful it wasn't.

 

Altenator test at O' O' O'Reiley's read that Altenator is "good" reading 14.6v output but "diodes" are bad.

Doe's anyone know exactly what that means as in would it still charge my battery because my battery is only reading 10.8v.

So does that mean ALT isn't charging battery eventho it has 14v output or does it mean battery is bad or does it mean something else?

Battery test read "charge battery before testing" so couldn't really test it and didn't wanna turn truck off again to test it with it only reading 10.8v didn't feel like having to jump it again.

So that's the latest/greatest on that and other than that truck ran absolutely fantastic on the approximately 20 mile round trip while ago.

Anything I should do before or in route of my 130+ round trip tommorrow other than don't turn truck off?

Gonna get my meter too of course tommorrow.

@TnShooter

 

A bad diode in the alternator can cause the battery to drain when the truck is off.
A diode allows current to travel in one direction only.

In a good working alternator, current/voltage only goes FROM the alternator TO the battery.
The diode stops current/voltage going from battery to the alternator.

If a diode is bad. Current/voltage will travel from the battery into the alternator and drain the battery.

My question is, Was the truck running when you checked battery voltage?

 

dont even need to answer anything @TnShooter is all over it!!

 

Makes sense...checked battery voltage both ways it was 14.6v with the truck running and 10.8v with the truck off @TnShooter

 

Lol @MSgt O he always is. Has helped me out numerous times...goodfella

 

Ok. That is "good".
If it shows 14.7 with truck on, then we know the connection to the battery is good.
14.7 is the max Toyota want's to see on the alternator test.
I haven't seen mine go over 13.7. But that was at a warm idle. And I've only checked in once.

I'd kind of like to know 2 things.

1. Will the battery take a full charge.
2. Is there a current draw with the truck off after 30 mins.

At this point, let's check the battery voltage after you drive the truck a bit.
Shut the truck off, wait about 5 mins and check the voltage.

We need to figure out why the battery is at 10.5v.
Maybe it was just low from you working on it with doors and key on.....

Either way, the alternator is long for this world if 1 or more diode is bad.
Neither is the battery if it's being drained constantly at shut off.
It's not good for a standard lead acid to be drained a lot.
That's why they make deep cell batteries.

 

Have to get back with ya on that. Didn't go to work today (didn't trust truck to make it 62 miles one way yet) so still don't have my meter.

Going to work tommorrow tho and will report back after I have checked those things with my Fluke (179) meter.

I do know tho that it will NOT start back without jumping it no matter how long it runs or sits. The millisecond you shut it off whether I try it immediately or wait awhile it ain't starting back until jumped.

 

Is the battery good?
You are going to have to take it off the truck and charge it.

Something isn't right here.

 

Hey @TnShooter
Man excuse my absent minded ignorance but just now remembered something important.

When I got the "new" junkyard engine bay fuse/relay box the ALT plug was broken so I just crimped & soldered some female spade connectors on the wires in place of the plug and stabbed them onto the male terminals on the ALT. (They are tight)

So just to make sure I've got it wired right. The way ive got it on the ALT itself is...

Top left...white (7.5A ALT fuse)
Top right...yel/red (Ignition)
Bottom left...nothing
Bottom right...gray (charge light)


Is this right?

my plug was the green "G2".

Generic diagram screenshot attached

 

Looks like you got it right to me.

1 - White
2. Yellow/Red
3. Not Used
4. Gray

 

Are we 100% sure that those are pins 1, 2, and 4 on the altenator itself tho?

 

As in physically where I have them

 

It looks to me like 1 and 2 should be on opposite sides as in1 on the top roe and 2 on the bottom row but hell idk

 

It will be "mirrored" on the alternator.
It's hard to explain. What would be on the left, would be on the right when plugged in the alternator.

 

Copy

 

I'd have to see how the plug, plugs into the alternator.

 

pay close attention to the "locking tab" and go by that.