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How's your Hammer Finish Holding Up?

Discussion in 'Wheels & Tires' started by Rooty, Nov 27, 2009.

  1. Nov 27, 2009 at 7:47 PM
    #1
    Rooty

    Rooty [OP] Tacfroma

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    Hey Everybody,

    I've been lurking around the forums here for quite a while now drooling over everybody's rigs and getting ideas for when I finally got my own Taco. Well last month I finally bit the big bullet of debt and purchased a new 2010 V6 4X4 Access Cab in Metallic Gray :cool:

    I'm fixin to do quite a few mods on it and really like the looks of the stock rims everyone has been hitting with Rustoleum Hammer Finish.

    I've got a pretty good idea of how to do it now thanks to all the posts on it (Thanks BTW you know who you are ;)) But I was curious as to how well its holding up for everybody. I realize its easy enough to just touch em up from time to time but I really don't want to have to worry about them too much...

    So how about it, is this stuff as tough as it looks? Any problems with chipping/peeling? Anybody feel like they wouldn't do it again or would have changed the way they prepped? I'm considering hitting my sliders too when they come and my chrome bumper as well. Does anybody know if I can/should use adhesion promoter on the chrome before I shoot or does it not need it?

    Thanks in advance for the input and thanks again to all the people posting how-to's etc and giving all of us dreamers something to aspire too!

    (BTW I'll be posting some pics later on after I get my planned mods rolling. Don't be surprised if a few of you gurus get some pm's from me in your inbox!)
     
  2. Nov 29, 2009 at 6:01 AM
    #2
    TacoBow

    TacoBow Intentionally cosmetically incorrect.

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    CURRENT - 2012 4x4 Access Cab SR5, 5 Speed Manual, 2.7, brown, I think. TRADED - 2008 4x4 TRD Sport DCSB, Auto, silver. SOLD, sort of - 2006 4x4 Access Cab TRD 6 Speed Manual, silver. TRADED - 2008 4x4 DCLB TRD Sport Auto, white. FORMER - 2001 Xtra Cab 4x4 5 Speed Manual 2.7, silver.
    Rooty! Welcome, from a somewhat noob to this board as well... many talented folks here. Excellent ideas and the "how 2's" are top notch.

    I see you have a talent for photos... man, I can't stop laughing! Found that by accident and it really made my day.:rofl:

    On another note... painting for longevity, (I painted cars years back, collision repair and the like), you may want to give epoxy paint a look.

    Outside of powdercoating, expoy top coats have excellent abrasion resistance and can be applied at minimal expense. VHT, (no, I have no affiliation with paint companies), is a brand I have used on other projects and found it to be a high quailty offering. It's not hammertone, but I'd bet ya fiddy cent that it holds up wayyyyyy mo betta!

    I had a link 'round here sumplace... gimme a min, here it is - http://www.vhtpaint.com/epoxypaint.html
     
  3. Nov 29, 2009 at 6:19 AM
    #3
    AK27

    AK27 Well-Known Member

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    welcome rooty!

    :laugh: awesome pic!!
     
  4. Nov 29, 2009 at 6:20 AM
    #4
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Staff Member

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    4.10 gears, sliders, and lots of buttons.
    X2!!!! Welcome abaord!
     
  5. Nov 29, 2009 at 6:23 AM
    #5
    tigerfan00

    tigerfan00 BECAUSE INTERNETS!! Staff Member

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    the hammered finish paint held up on my 02s wheels for almost 3 years...no touchups needed really...i wheeled on them too a bunch during that time
     
  6. Nov 29, 2009 at 2:17 PM
    #6
    Rooty

    Rooty [OP] Tacfroma

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    ARB Bumper with Foglights, IPF 968 Driving Lights, Color Matched Grill Surround and Eyelids, Grillcraft Grill with Custom Taco Emblem, Black Headlight Mod, EGR Hood Deflector and In Channel Rain Guards, Stock Wheels Painted Black, BFG TA/KO's in 265/75/R16, Debadged, Stubbs Welding HDSKO Sliders, Front Windows Tint, Wet Okole Seat Covers, Weathertec Floor Mats, Autolights Unlimited Smoked 3rd Brake and Tail Lights, Powdercoated Rear Bumper, TRD Cat Back Exhaust, AFE Pro Dry Filter, Factory Bed Mat, Compustar 1 way remote start
    Thanks for the input and warm welcomes guys. Glad you like my pic, the dealer threw in the Afro and Mutton Chops for free! (it was actually taken on Halloween night)

    Speaking of pics, can someone please tell me how to delete photos from my gallery? It took me a few tries to get the upload the right size so I have some duplicates, can't seem to figure out how to get rid of them.

    Taco Bow, thanks for the suggestion and link. Do you know if it's self priming on chrome too, or would you suggest using an adhesion promoter? I think I may buy a can of each and shoot em on something else first to see which finish I prefer and see if I can tell which is tougher. I'll let you guys know what I find out!

    PS: I just found some VHT wheel specific paint on the link Taco Bow posted.

    http://www.vhtpaint.com/wheelpaint.html

    I might give this a whirl instead. Decisions, Decisions!
     
  7. Nov 29, 2009 at 2:24 PM
    #7
    rick

    rick `

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    welcome Rooty, nice fro
     
  8. Nov 29, 2009 at 2:47 PM
    #8
    Rooty

    Rooty [OP] Tacfroma

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    Spanks!
     
  9. Nov 29, 2009 at 3:40 PM
    #9
    TacoBow

    TacoBow Intentionally cosmetically incorrect.

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    Painting over chromed steel is a different animal all around. In order to achieve proper adhesion, the surface must be abraded. Paint needs a "tooth" to cling to... roughing the chrome surface by either bead or sand blasting is most common. I've done that and it works well.

    I've heard of, but not tried, painting chrome after exposing the parts to an acid etch bath. Dipping parts has obvious safety concerns, not to mention a large volume tank approaches commercial use. I'd say the visit to your local blaster is going to be much more economical and healthier.

    Either way, you should still use a good quality etching primer, (they grip best), a zinc phosphate primer made by Dupont was my #1 choice back in the "day", followed closely by Martin Senior. They were a must when painting over fiberglass too. Corvettes would spider when hit, which was a real bear to feather. High build, self etching primers allowed for a factory finish over existing body work... very nice indeed.

    Ok, rule of thumb, don't paint chrome without primer. No paint should be applied over chrome without properly preparing / roughing the surface.

    If it were me, I'd opt for an aftermarket bumper replacement before painting the stock chrome offerings. You can always put the stockers back on... but you can never make painted over chrome look like new chrome again without replating.

    Just my 1.5 cents... hope that helps bud!
     
  10. Nov 29, 2009 at 4:34 PM
    #10
    Rooty

    Rooty [OP] Tacfroma

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    Dude TB,

    You got the goods man! Thanks for the advice. I was considering taking my wheels to a sandblaster to get a better prep and save me some time. (I got a new set of BFG AT KO's in 265/75/16 on the way so I'm gonna have to take the old ones off regardless) Since it sounds like I'm gonna have to blast the bumper anyways I might as well toss em the wheels too. The way I'm hearing you is that I don't need to get all the chrome off with the blasting, just give it a "tooth" right? It sounds like you are suggesting using a Zinc Phosphate primer on the wheels as well or just the bumper? I thought the Rustoleum and VHT paint you suggested don't require primer, will using the ZP mess up their adhesion or would it be extra insurance?

    I absolutely loath chrome so I've got no worries about going back to stock and I'm dropping some serious coin on other parts for the truck so an aftermarket bumper isn't really in the picture. Thanks for the 1.5 cents though.

    Since I've go an ex pro on the line here, I'm planning on doing my chrome grill surround as well. I was planning on roughing it up with some sandpaper (not all the way to the plastic) then hitting it with some adhesion promoter and the base and clear I got from automotivetouchup.com. Would you suggest getting it all the way down to the plastic instead? (I don't think sandblasting chrome covered plastic is a good idea right?) I've also heard adhesion promoter is the way to go on plastic/fake chrome. Is that correct, or would you use the ZP on it instead?

    Oh one more thing. I'm considering an ARB front bumper as well and I would want it to match the wheels/rear bumper. Could I just prep sand the powder coat and shoot it with whatever I end up deciding on or would it be better to take it down to bare metal and prime with ZP?

    Sorry if all of this is a little off topic.
    :threadjacked: By original poster!
     
  11. Nov 29, 2009 at 4:47 PM
    #11
    tacomaman06

    tacomaman06 Carolina Alliance: Lead, follow, or get the hell o Staff Member

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    welcome to tw,Rooty!! good to have ya man.

    the hammered finish i sprayed on my wheels have held up pretty good..........except for the few places that the weights were moved around for balancing. easy touch up tho.
     
  12. Nov 29, 2009 at 4:56 PM
    #12
    Rooty

    Rooty [OP] Tacfroma

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    ARB Bumper with Foglights, IPF 968 Driving Lights, Color Matched Grill Surround and Eyelids, Grillcraft Grill with Custom Taco Emblem, Black Headlight Mod, EGR Hood Deflector and In Channel Rain Guards, Stock Wheels Painted Black, BFG TA/KO's in 265/75/R16, Debadged, Stubbs Welding HDSKO Sliders, Front Windows Tint, Wet Okole Seat Covers, Weathertec Floor Mats, Autolights Unlimited Smoked 3rd Brake and Tail Lights, Powdercoated Rear Bumper, TRD Cat Back Exhaust, AFE Pro Dry Filter, Factory Bed Mat, Compustar 1 way remote start
    Good to be here man, thanks!

    Yah I think I'm leaning towards the Rustolem Hammered. Seems like people are having good luck with it, I like the finish and its easy to shoot! (or so I've been told)
     
  13. Nov 29, 2009 at 6:47 PM
    #13
    TacoBow

    TacoBow Intentionally cosmetically incorrect.

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    *knuckle crack* Otay... let's see what we can do 2 clarify dem dare questions...

    No... no need to remove all dat chrome from da bumpa... just burnish it well via blasting media. Only nickel undaneath dar dat you don't need to expose anywayz.

    Primer... yes to primer for da bumpa... gotta have it when painting over da chrome. Don't matta what kinda paint, you still need da primer.

    Wheels... short of hand sanding with wet / dry paper, (600 WET will suffice), using fine media sand @ low pressure so not to induce damage, blasting the rims is the best way to prepare dem fo de paint.

    You really don't need to prime the rims... but it won't hurt a thing if you do. You'll just need to sand dem lightly before da paint go on.

    *Hint* - pick yousef up a cheap tack cloth at the auto parts store. It will gather any sanding / dust from da rim surface. Use it in conjunction with some compressed air to shoo away loose particles before you shoot, aka gun, spray, hose, (LOL) on da color coat.

    Impo~dant Note - Do not buy compressed air in da can. De last person I seen who was playing wit dat kinda compressed air was sitting on de train tracks. You guessed it... de train came. Bad perception / reaction time. He's riding trains with Jesus now. Dat not real good. Cuz of dumb sh*ts like dat, you now must be 18 years of age to buy dat air. Day will card you at de register and den you will have to run from de po po. Dis is also not good. Member dat!

    About dat grill surround... adhesion promoter on plastic is the way to go! Cutting / sanding through the faux chrome is not required. Again, 600 is fine for prep... as would be a scotch brite pad. Not a brillo mind you, a scotch brite sanding pad. Anutha auto parts store purchase, as with the tack cloth. The ZP isn't required, HOWEVA, I would use it if you were able to see sand scratches through the adhesion promoter.

    General rule... if you can see it in your final primer coat, you will see it through the color coat. <--- Dis is no damn good.

    About color matching that ARB front bumper - no need take it down to bare metal. You would only have to prime the areas you cut, aka sand, through. Otherwise, no primer would be needed as long as you don't break the factory finish.

    *TIP* - paint and powdercoat will be thinnest on the edges of a panel. Tread lightly there when sanding so you don't break through.

    I would be comfortable scotch brite padding that ARB, den air, den tack, and apply the color. I would go one step further tho, and add a urethane clear coat, (x2 or 3) to the ARB bumper, simply becuz it's face it right up front, catching all the road skully glory! Urethane is hard as a wedding, well, you know. :D

    Hey, holla back ifin' I missed sumpin yo? Peace out! (LOL)

     
  14. Nov 29, 2009 at 7:34 PM
    #14
    Rooty

    Rooty [OP] Tacfroma

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    Whoa dude,

    Is it me or did your accent change?!? Thanks again for all the advice. One more thing and I'll leave you alone LOL. Will the ZP primer be sufficient on the bumper or should I go over that with a urethane primer as well? I read this http://www.bamph.com/rmh/painting.htm that suggested to do so. I figured since I'm already using primer with a no-primer paint I may be just be pissing in the wind if I did. Plus I'll probably be going with the Hammered Finish so I'm not too worried about flaws, I just want the shit to stay on! Whaddya think? Oops! one more thing too (sorry), can you be a little more specific on the Dupont ZP primer you suggested? Is it a two Pack? I don't have a gun.....

    Spanks again man, you da shiznit.
     
  15. Nov 30, 2009 at 6:24 AM
    #15
    TacoBow

    TacoBow Intentionally cosmetically incorrect.

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    It did? Damn. Kinda like listening to someone with a strong accent on the phone I suppose... musta got all caught up in that street lingo / shiznat thang. My bad. :boink: :D

    About that chrome bumper... if you want that paint to stay on, using ZP primer is a must. Follow it up with a based urethane primer. The urethane primer yields the best adhesion bond for your top coat, hands down. I've yet to find a primer that can beat urethane based products for longevity. Sadly, both the Dupont ZP and automotive urethane primers are 2 stage products, thus requiring the use of a gun.

    Now, I've not seen it, but recall there was a company proposing a urethane primer for spot jobs in rattle cans. I didn't pursue it since my paint work was not often about small pieces. I do see the benefit to the home user and now that I seldom paint, (last one I did was 2 years ago on a 1995 Jeep Wrangler resto for my son), wouldn't mind having a can on hand fo' (woops), for myself.

    Here's a couple pics... the day I bought it b4 taking it home -

    [​IMG]

    Half way through the paint prep - (see my old Taco in the back drop?) -

    [​IMG]

    A little closer to completion -


    [​IMG]

    Fast forward a couple weeks to driveability -

    [​IMG]

    There's other pics under my gallery too... but for some reason they didn't stack in order of the repair progress.

    Nuff o' that... feel free to hit me up with paint related questions... I'll do what I can to help ya bud. (Yo)
     
  16. Dec 1, 2009 at 3:55 PM
    #16
    Rooty

    Rooty [OP] Tacfroma

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    Thanks again TB

    I managed to find what I think you were talking about with the rattle can urethane. It's called Spraymax. http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd_2_part_2k.cfm

    Pretty neat idea really. It has a plunger on the bottom you push in b4 you spray to mix in the accelerator. I think I am gonna give it a shot, they also make a two pack urethane clear coat I'm gonna give a whirl. I'll let you know how they work for me.

    Nice Jeep BTW![​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
  17. Dec 1, 2009 at 4:09 PM
    #17
    TacoBow

    TacoBow Intentionally cosmetically incorrect.

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    Thanks for kind words... I know it ain't a Tacoma, but it was kewl just the same that you gave my paint props.

    Much love man, I'm click addin' to your reputation for that one. :thumbsup:
     
  18. Dec 1, 2009 at 4:23 PM
    #18
    Rooty

    Rooty [OP] Tacfroma

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    Thanks dude,

    The fro alone has got me a few rep points already :cool:
     
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