Hub/Bearing assembly

Good price for them - to bad they aren't pressed together.

 

I installed mine but now Im confused. Since its a sealed bearing, how am i supposed to pack it with new grease?

 

If you bought them already pressed together you can't. If you didn't buy them assembled they simply pull apart. They are in deed not sealed.

See here for reference. http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...heel-bearings-before-install.html#post6143732

 

Here's just the bearing module from Timken on

$77 Preset, Pre-Greased And Pre-Sealed Bearing Module Assembly

Amazon, $75.06, same thing that Autopartswarehouse $92.49 lists (Free shipping on both). [Edit] from Rockauto - $72.88 ($67.79 +shipping-%5discount). Price match if you like.

 

Rock auto has them from $65.79 for Moog. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php

 

With shipping to me it's more than the Timken I posted.

 

Oh...I never buy from Amazon so no clue how their "super saving shipper" or whatever it is works. Price just seemed way high. Whatever floats your boat.

I always use Rock because I get one day shipping from them due to their location + I like supporting them. Also Rock always has 5% discount codes available. I have never paid their list price.

 

Nice. Though the Timken from Rock Auto is $3 less than Amazon

 

as far as e-bay parts go,i bought the same basic front assembly for a lincoln ls.oreilly was 107 a side.i got both for 86 shipped.fit like factory,had the abs sensors and everything.was satisfied of the quality and fit.

 

I bought H-F's A-frame 20-ton press, #37999 . The press rails, or table, if you will, will not accommodate the 6.5 inch hubs. The rails are welded together. So, you either have to saw it apart, or make your own rails. From their current website, it appears all their presses except, maybe, the 50-ton hydraulic press, are designed with welded rails. But, I can't tell from the pics about the inside spacing. I can only confirm for the 37999#.

 

wish someone would post pics of bearing being packed. Mine were from Rock auto and i just needed them pressed into hub. I did not pack them as i did not see how nor how to separate.

 

You may have noticed the plastic insert inside the bearings. That holds the two bearings together so they don't fall out. You remove it to release the bearings and you can then grease them up. There are several designs; below is a common one. You connect the tip to a grease gun and pump in the grease until it starts to seep out. You can probably locate a youtube video.

 

Ok just for future reference. Don't cut those rails on the press. They there for support. To separate bearing all you need is two pieces of small cinder block on the top of rails . I have the same press. That's what I did to separate my bearings.


To pack bearing: use needle for grease gun to fill bearing on the steel seal side. Fill every space with grease. For the side with rubber seal you can use fingers.

 

I use that same press as well and use two pieces of steel across them to allow for the large hubs. I have done several of the Toyota wheel bearings at my shop with great success. The reason the hub and bearing units are not pressed together is that there is a seal that has to go in between them. That is NOT sold in the kit, and you will need to buy that seal or face water intrusion into the bearing. I wish that I had kept an old set to show those who are interested what it looks like. There are two different styles of course. One is pressed into the front knuckle, the other is bolted on to the knuckle.

 

I have had 2 05's and I replaced front wheel bearings on both of them. First time I had a local shop do the press work and by the time I did the second one I had bought my own 12 ton press. So the second time around I did the whole job myself. I did it a little differently though. I couldn't figure out how to press the hub out of the old bearing because the OD of the hub is bigger than the actual bearing. So I removed the spindle itself and bolted the bearing back onto it and just blocked up the spindle with arbor plates to press the hub out. Worked fine. From what I found doing both trucks if you don't replace the inner seal that rides on the CV axle YOU WILL be doing this job again prematurely. These were torn on all of them and dissecting the old bearings showed the inner portions of the bearing were in worse shape than the outer. So those seals failing seems to me at least to be the cause for the bearing failure. Considering neither of those 2 trucks ever went off road I suspect those that do will see even more premature failure. One of my trucks had 75k on it when they went and the other had 112k. My 96 has 254k and both are original. But it's a different design.

 

I tried two small bricks I had laying around but they would not hold up to the pressure; neither did two 4X4 blocks of wood. The small contact area was too much for them.

The V-brace doubles to keep the rails from popping out under pressure, a safety feature, and to be able to lift the respective ends up and down when repositioning.

What I envision doing is cutting the V-brace; inserting a 7-inch long pipe ; drilling a 3/8" hole at each end and holding it together with a 3/8" bolt of about 10" long to be able to adjust the width as needed.

That's if my buddy don't come through with two scrap metal bars I can rig together. I also ordered a large bearing Splitter (rated up to a 50-ton press)

$42 Sunex 52BS Bearing Splitter, for Shop Press

http://www.amazon.com/Sunex-52BS-Be...10213&sr=8-1&keywords=sunnex+bearing+splitter. That may work with my bricks and/or 4x4.

If you look at competing presses, most appear to have adjustable rails. I wonder if cost is the reason H-F presses have welded rails.

My bearings in my 07 4X4 went out at 100K and had lots of off-roading miles. It was the outside bearings on both sides that wore out. I'm thinking the 1-inch spacers and larger tires add more stress to the outside bearings.

 

Just had both of my spindles/bearing assemblies off, and lo-and-behold . . . The driver side inner seal was shot. It looked dry rotted, chunks of rubber were chewed up and strewn about, and the little retention springs were just barely hanging in there. The truck has 51K miles, has only seen limited light offroading (dirt roads and open fire breaks), and is always garaged. I have a new seal on order and the truck sits on a lift in the meanwhile.

 

Putting the inner seals in SUCKS. Same with the seal on the cv.

 

I'm waiting to take out the old seal until I can take a look at the new one. Will the new one include the metal lip that's on the inner side of the spindle? Or, is it simply rubber and two retention springs?