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HUBCENTRIC???

Discussion in 'Wheels & Tires' started by Benson X, Feb 19, 2011.

  1. Feb 19, 2011 at 3:13 AM
    #1
    Benson X

    Benson X [OP] ...and we're back!

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    I have a '11 Tacoma DC/LB TRD Sport w/ stock 17"s. Which one do I choose??? They will be mounted on these TIRES (5272). Please excuse my ignorance on this particular topic, but thanks for the help :thumbsup:.

    HUBCENTRIC

    -OR-

    NOT HUBCENTRIC
     
  2. Feb 19, 2011 at 4:58 AM
    #2
    Janster

    Janster Old & Forgetful

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    Just get them balanced. After the first spin..... have the guy rotate the wheels on the machine 180 degrees and spin them again.

    I've personally never had to deal with any of that Hub/Lug stuff before.
     
  3. Feb 19, 2011 at 5:28 AM
    #3
    2010Tacoma4x4

    2010Tacoma4x4 "Man Ho"

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    If available I would buy hubcentric if the cost isn't much more. This will assure the wheel is a snug fit and obviously centered.
    As long as the non hubcentric wheel is properly aligned and torqued there really shouldn't be any problems with that either.
     
  4. Feb 19, 2011 at 8:25 AM
    #4
    RugbyTaco

    RugbyTaco Rhum.

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    Or you could buy some Hub Centric Rings from Here
     
  5. Feb 19, 2011 at 8:38 AM
    #5
    sethr21785

    sethr21785 Well-Known Member

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    I bought hub centric and if you plan on offroading you might want to as well..
     
  6. Feb 19, 2011 at 3:36 PM
    #6
    Benson X

    Benson X [OP] ...and we're back!

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    Thanks for the input guys, it sounds like it really doesn't matter as long as they're mounted/balanced/torqued correctly. I might call ProComp and see if they now how big the hub-hole is, if it won't fit the 108mm, then I'm pretty much SOL.
     
  7. Feb 19, 2011 at 4:19 PM
    #7
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 :POOPCORN: Staff Member

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    Hub centric vs. Non-hub centric has nothing to do with wheeling. Typically a steel wheel is non-hub centric and an non steel alloy wheel is hub centric. Reason being.............the lug nuts.


    Hub centric lug

    [​IMG]

    Non hub centric lug

    [​IMG]
     
  8. Feb 19, 2011 at 11:45 PM
    #8
    Benson X

    Benson X [OP] ...and we're back!

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    I don't consider myself an expert on this subject (hence the thread), but I don't quite understand your theory. If you're talking about the wheel material, these are alloy wheels, yet one is hub and one is lug. I don't see how the lugnuts play into this either. Basically, unless the hubcentric wheels are exactly the same diameter as my stock wheel hub, I would have to get it bored out or get rings. Or I could go for the lug wheels, and torque 'em right.
     
  9. Feb 20, 2011 at 5:32 PM
    #9
    RugbyTaco

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    Get the hub-centric. Its one less thing that could cause problems
     
  10. Feb 20, 2011 at 7:25 PM
    #10
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 :POOPCORN: Staff Member

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    The problem with this is (see bold) that if the studs are not concentric with the spindle, it will always vibrate. And the Toyota hub should be 108mm
    That's because they are after market wheels and as PSU has said, the manufacturer is offering them as "vehicle specific" in a sense.

    Look at it this way. Tacomas come with both steel wheels and alloy wheels. The alloys are hub centric and the steels are not. So does it really matter if the after market wheels are hub centric or not?

    If you put an acorn style lug nut on an non-steel alloy wheel, it will come lose and the wheel will fall off.
     
  11. Feb 21, 2011 at 5:19 PM
    #11
    Benson X

    Benson X [OP] ...and we're back!

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    Got it, thanks for the clarification. I will still email/call ProComp to see if they know the hub bore diameter on the hubcentric. It's roughly $40 more per wheel to get hub centric, and the b/s is slightly different between the 2 (if you click the hyperlink in the original post, you can note the differences)
     
  12. Feb 22, 2011 at 8:31 PM
    #12
    Benson X

    Benson X [OP] ...and we're back!

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    Debadged, Black Toyota Emblem, TRD Emblem, Tint, Leer 100XL w/ Thule Tracker II rails, aFe Stage II Si Pro Dry-S CAI, aFe Mach Power 3" cat-back exhaust, Doug Thorley Y-Pipe, Bedmat, Weathertech liners, Weathertech window vents, Redline Hood Struts, 12v Anytime Mod, Maglight Mod, FOB/Seatbelt Mod, Rear Diff. Breather Mod, OEM Heated Mirrors Mod, OME 886 Coils w/ 90k Nitro Shocks up front, OME N182 Shocks with Dakars and a D29XL AAL in back, Light Racing UCAs, 1/2" Toytec Front Spacers, swaybar delete Mod, (4) 1" BORA Wheel Spacers, 285/70R17 Goodyear MT/R (originals), hidden Cobra 19DX IV w/ 4' Firestik on a Relentless Mount, custom Sliders, ARB Bumper, Warn VR-8000s w/ Syn. line, custom Tool/Hi-Lift mounts, custom Engine Bay and Winch-area LEDs, csJumper interior LEDs, custom TRD Skull Decal, 10" SeeLite LED light-bar custom mounted in the grille, custom Front & Mid skidplate, Garmin 60CSX GPS w/ RAM mounts....RAN OUT OF
    Called ProComp today and got some good info. The hubcentric wheels are for Chevy/GM hubs, and the lug centric has a bore of 108mm. He recommended test fitting and balancing w/o the hub rings since it's such a small difference, and using standard 60° conical lugs. I will try to get them balanced with a Roadforce balancer and the Haweka adapter.
     
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