1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

HUBCENTRIC???

Discussion in 'Wheels & Tires' started by Benson X, Feb 19, 2011.

  1. Feb 19, 2011 at 3:13 AM
    #1
    Benson X

    Benson X [OP] ...and we're back!

    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2010
    Member:
    #46123
    Messages:
    5,086
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Ben
    Olympia, WA
    Vehicle:
    '11 MGM DC/LB
    DIY or DIE!
    I have a '11 Tacoma DC/LB TRD Sport w/ stock 17"s. Which one do I choose??? They will be mounted on these TIRES (5272). Please excuse my ignorance on this particular topic, but thanks for the help :thumbsup:.

    HUBCENTRIC

    -OR-

    NOT HUBCENTRIC
     
  2. Feb 19, 2011 at 4:58 AM
    #2
    Janster

    Janster Old & Forgetful

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2007
    Member:
    #1138
    Messages:
    14,148
    Gender:
    Female
    First Name:
    Jandy
    Lancaster, PA
    Vehicle:
    2016 GMC Canyon SLT w/ LineX and....
    Just get them balanced. After the first spin..... have the guy rotate the wheels on the machine 180 degrees and spin them again.

    I've personally never had to deal with any of that Hub/Lug stuff before.
     
  3. Feb 19, 2011 at 5:28 AM
    #3
    2010Tacoma4x4

    2010Tacoma4x4 "Man Ho"

    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2011
    Member:
    #49556
    Messages:
    644
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Dave
    Jacksonville, Fl
    Vehicle:
    2010 4x4 SR5
    Tinted windows, Bug deflector, Rain guards, Bed mat, Rear leaf TSB, Bilsteins front & rear (front set @ 1.75), 16x8 chrome Helo wheels, Toyo open country AT P265/75/R16 tires. CBI bolt on sliders. BSP color matched M1 Satoshi grill. BHLM. UWS low profile black powder coat crosover truckbox. Pioneer DVD/CD head unit - 4 channel amp - front mids & highs - 8" sub box.

    If available I would buy hubcentric if the cost isn't much more. This will assure the wheel is a snug fit and obviously centered.
    As long as the non hubcentric wheel is properly aligned and torqued there really shouldn't be any problems with that either.
     
  4. Feb 19, 2011 at 8:25 AM
    #4
    RugbyTaco

    RugbyTaco Rhum.

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2010
    Member:
    #40095
    Messages:
    360
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Paul
    Chicago
    Vehicle:
    '10 TRD Sport Magnetic Gray
    Wet Okoles, Weathertechs, AFE Pro Dry, Wicked Flow 13", URD MAF, MagLite Mount, 16x8 Procomp 8069, 265/75/16 GY Duratracs, Rear Leaf TSB,AAL, OME 9000s, 884s, S2000 stubby antenna, Leer XR100
    Or you could buy some Hub Centric Rings from Here
     
  5. Feb 19, 2011 at 8:38 AM
    #5
    sethr21785

    sethr21785 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2010
    Member:
    #29372
    Messages:
    170
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Seth
    Windham Maine
    Vehicle:
    09 TRD SPORT
    TRD Short Throw, TRD Exhaust, 5100 1.5, Weathertech floor liners, AFE Filter, Projector Head and fogs, Weathertech vent visors
    I bought hub centric and if you plan on offroading you might want to as well..
     
  6. Feb 19, 2011 at 3:36 PM
    #6
    Benson X

    Benson X [OP] ...and we're back!

    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2010
    Member:
    #46123
    Messages:
    5,086
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Ben
    Olympia, WA
    Vehicle:
    '11 MGM DC/LB
    DIY or DIE!
    Thanks for the input guys, it sounds like it really doesn't matter as long as they're mounted/balanced/torqued correctly. I might call ProComp and see if they now how big the hub-hole is, if it won't fit the 108mm, then I'm pretty much SOL.
     
  7. Feb 19, 2011 at 4:19 PM
    #7
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 :POOPCORN: Moderator

    Joined:
    Dec 18, 2008
    Member:
    #11714
    Messages:
    48,053
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Ben
    Beech Creek
    Vehicle:
    05 Tundra SR5, 88 SR5 PU, 98 TRD OR (CRUSHED)
    5100's all on fours
    Hub centric vs. Non-hub centric has nothing to do with wheeling. Typically a steel wheel is non-hub centric and an non steel alloy wheel is hub centric. Reason being.............the lug nuts.


    Hub centric lug

    [​IMG]

    Non hub centric lug

    [​IMG]
     
  8. Feb 19, 2011 at 11:45 PM
    #8
    Benson X

    Benson X [OP] ...and we're back!

    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2010
    Member:
    #46123
    Messages:
    5,086
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Ben
    Olympia, WA
    Vehicle:
    '11 MGM DC/LB
    DIY or DIE!
    I don't consider myself an expert on this subject (hence the thread), but I don't quite understand your theory. If you're talking about the wheel material, these are alloy wheels, yet one is hub and one is lug. I don't see how the lugnuts play into this either. Basically, unless the hubcentric wheels are exactly the same diameter as my stock wheel hub, I would have to get it bored out or get rings. Or I could go for the lug wheels, and torque 'em right.
     
  9. Feb 20, 2011 at 5:32 PM
    #9
    RugbyTaco

    RugbyTaco Rhum.

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2010
    Member:
    #40095
    Messages:
    360
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Paul
    Chicago
    Vehicle:
    '10 TRD Sport Magnetic Gray
    Wet Okoles, Weathertechs, AFE Pro Dry, Wicked Flow 13", URD MAF, MagLite Mount, 16x8 Procomp 8069, 265/75/16 GY Duratracs, Rear Leaf TSB,AAL, OME 9000s, 884s, S2000 stubby antenna, Leer XR100
    Get the hub-centric. Its one less thing that could cause problems
     
  10. Feb 20, 2011 at 7:25 PM
    #10
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 :POOPCORN: Moderator

    Joined:
    Dec 18, 2008
    Member:
    #11714
    Messages:
    48,053
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Ben
    Beech Creek
    Vehicle:
    05 Tundra SR5, 88 SR5 PU, 98 TRD OR (CRUSHED)
    5100's all on fours
    The problem with this is (see bold) that if the studs are not concentric with the spindle, it will always vibrate. And the Toyota hub should be 108mm
    That's because they are after market wheels and as PSU has said, the manufacturer is offering them as "vehicle specific" in a sense.

    Look at it this way. Tacomas come with both steel wheels and alloy wheels. The alloys are hub centric and the steels are not. So does it really matter if the after market wheels are hub centric or not?

    If you put an acorn style lug nut on an non-steel alloy wheel, it will come lose and the wheel will fall off.
     
  11. Feb 21, 2011 at 5:19 PM
    #11
    Benson X

    Benson X [OP] ...and we're back!

    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2010
    Member:
    #46123
    Messages:
    5,086
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Ben
    Olympia, WA
    Vehicle:
    '11 MGM DC/LB
    DIY or DIE!
    Got it, thanks for the clarification. I will still email/call ProComp to see if they know the hub bore diameter on the hubcentric. It's roughly $40 more per wheel to get hub centric, and the b/s is slightly different between the 2 (if you click the hyperlink in the original post, you can note the differences)
     
  12. Feb 22, 2011 at 8:31 PM
    #12
    Benson X

    Benson X [OP] ...and we're back!

    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2010
    Member:
    #46123
    Messages:
    5,086
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Ben
    Olympia, WA
    Vehicle:
    '11 MGM DC/LB
    DIY or DIE!
    Called ProComp today and got some good info. The hubcentric wheels are for Chevy/GM hubs, and the lug centric has a bore of 108mm. He recommended test fitting and balancing w/o the hub rings since it's such a small difference, and using standard 60° conical lugs. I will try to get them balanced with a Roadforce balancer and the Haweka adapter.
     
To Top