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Hybrid Audio L8's installed in doors/pics

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by craigFLA, Jun 20, 2010.

  1. Jun 20, 2010 at 7:19 AM
    #1
    craigFLA

    craigFLA [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Tacoma TRD Sport Pkg.#1, XSP Package
    Leather, 20" rims, Borla cat-back exhaust, running boards, back up camera/3" screen in rear view mirror, carbon fiber interior trim. Tow Package. MODS: URD intake BHLM. Tinted tails & 3rd brake light Fog Light mod. 5pc Grill Craft (High Gloss Black powder-coat) T-Rex eye-lids AVS Wind Deflectors 3M Window Tint 15 front/30 rear OBX Sports Pedals Viper 5901 / remote start Pioneer AVIC F90BT-NAV Hybrid L8's in doors, L4's and Dynaudio MD102 tweets in custom kicks, morel rear-fill, JL TW5-13" sub, JBL MS-8, 2@Tru B475, Tru 4.65, PPI a600.2, PPI 456 X-over, Raamat BX2 and ensolite. relocated rear seats 3/4" Retrax cover electric dual "dead-bolt-lock" electric tailgate lock. electric Dynalock for Retrax Cover/custom fabricated case. kinetik second battery/power-gate isolation. Powerslot Cryogenic rotors, Hawks HPS Pads, SS lines,painted calipers&drums FULL trans flush mod OE Denso plugs
    I completed my initial system install over the Xmas break

    see here:

    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/au...ck-seat-mod-system-install-complete-pics.html

    and have been reasonably happy, however there are some things I've been wanting to change, one of them being my midbass response.

    When I blew the passenger side DLS UI 6" midbass, I realized it was time to upgrade. One of my Tru 4.75 amps is bridged giving a rated max output in the facinity of 240 watts X 2. I had been giving the DLS midbass around 160 watts, but am pretty mean on speakers as I like my volume!

    I wanted a little more punch and volume up front...and after speaking with Marv decided to try the L8.

    Marv fabricated new 1" baffles and 1/4" spacers for this project. Although my doors are deadened using Ramaat and ensolite, I wanted to add some additional mass to the back side of the inner metal door skin, and on the inside of the plastic door panel to avoid potential resonance from installing 8" drivers. Being in the commercial roofing business for 20 years, i have my choice of every peel n stick underlayment known to man, but chose to use Peel n Seal from Lowes. Its NOT asphaltic and produces NO odor, sticks incredibly well, is 40 mil, and aluminum faced. Easy to work with...very glad I chose this product...NO REGRETS!!!


    Here is a door after removing a DLS and baffle

    [​IMG]




    Next I dry-fit the new baffle (without spacer) and marked the speaker opening needs to be enlarged for the 8" driver


    [​IMG]




    Here is a pic after enlarging the hole, and installing the baffle (set in 1" butyl tape). I sealed the "gap" at the top of the baffle inside and out using the peel n seal. Trust me..its air tight!!


    [​IMG]





    I then installed the mdf spacer..set in butyl tape which seals it, and holds it in place while I work.


    [​IMG]




    Finally...the driver installed. I use weather stripping as gasket material on all my drivers.. 1/2" x 1/2" from home depot


    [​IMG]



    I had already "shaved" the plastic door panel with a dremel when i installed the DLS...but took a little more to ensure clearance.


    [​IMG]



    I added peel n seal to the door panel for safe measure



    [​IMG]





    The finished product


    [​IMG]




    For the time being, they are crossed over 55 htz to 250, and are receiving about 200 watts give or take.

    They sound great, 1000x improvement over the DLS and they are nowhere near broken in yet! Not a "boomy" bass like a sub, but rather very accurate crisp QUICK response you would expect from a paper driver..

    Very pleased overall! I will post back in a week or so once their broken in, as I have no doubt they will do nothing but get better.
     
  2. Jun 21, 2010 at 4:39 AM
    #2
    craigFLA

    craigFLA [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Tacoma TRD Sport Pkg.#1, XSP Package
    Leather, 20" rims, Borla cat-back exhaust, running boards, back up camera/3" screen in rear view mirror, carbon fiber interior trim. Tow Package. MODS: URD intake BHLM. Tinted tails & 3rd brake light Fog Light mod. 5pc Grill Craft (High Gloss Black powder-coat) T-Rex eye-lids AVS Wind Deflectors 3M Window Tint 15 front/30 rear OBX Sports Pedals Viper 5901 / remote start Pioneer AVIC F90BT-NAV Hybrid L8's in doors, L4's and Dynaudio MD102 tweets in custom kicks, morel rear-fill, JL TW5-13" sub, JBL MS-8, 2@Tru B475, Tru 4.65, PPI a600.2, PPI 456 X-over, Raamat BX2 and ensolite. relocated rear seats 3/4" Retrax cover electric dual "dead-bolt-lock" electric tailgate lock. electric Dynalock for Retrax Cover/custom fabricated case. kinetik second battery/power-gate isolation. Powerslot Cryogenic rotors, Hawks HPS Pads, SS lines,painted calipers&drums FULL trans flush mod OE Denso plugs
    Its amazing how these drivers come to life after just 1 day of use!

    I'm sold!
     
  3. Jun 21, 2010 at 4:44 AM
    #3
    rscecil007

    rscecil007 Well-Known Member

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    Nice!

    I thought about doing this as well, but didnt' want to modify my doors like you did, plus I'm still only running two way (looks like you are running 3-way up front). If I had my 3-ways going I would have probably considered it. I decided to upgrade my L6's to L6 SE's.

    What did you end up trimming the metal in your door with, to get the opening large enough for the L8?
     
  4. Jun 21, 2010 at 5:10 AM
    #4
    Scarab21

    Scarab21 Well-Known Member

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    Tint, tinted tails + 3rd brake light, shaved tailgate, painted calipers. TSB Leafs+ AAL, PA/CB, 5100 Bilsteins set @ 2.5 up front. Satoshi line-x'd grill.
    sorry i dont get these technical L6s l8 etc.. stuff.. so what you did was put a 8" in the door? that looks pretty easy..

    can this be done for the rear doors?


    what are all the sizes of the speakers in the truck?

    i have a 2009 doublecab.. with JBL.. the one with the sub
     
  5. Jun 21, 2010 at 6:05 AM
    #5
    craigFLA

    craigFLA [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Leather, 20" rims, Borla cat-back exhaust, running boards, back up camera/3" screen in rear view mirror, carbon fiber interior trim. Tow Package. MODS: URD intake BHLM. Tinted tails & 3rd brake light Fog Light mod. 5pc Grill Craft (High Gloss Black powder-coat) T-Rex eye-lids AVS Wind Deflectors 3M Window Tint 15 front/30 rear OBX Sports Pedals Viper 5901 / remote start Pioneer AVIC F90BT-NAV Hybrid L8's in doors, L4's and Dynaudio MD102 tweets in custom kicks, morel rear-fill, JL TW5-13" sub, JBL MS-8, 2@Tru B475, Tru 4.65, PPI a600.2, PPI 456 X-over, Raamat BX2 and ensolite. relocated rear seats 3/4" Retrax cover electric dual "dead-bolt-lock" electric tailgate lock. electric Dynalock for Retrax Cover/custom fabricated case. kinetik second battery/power-gate isolation. Powerslot Cryogenic rotors, Hawks HPS Pads, SS lines,painted calipers&drums FULL trans flush mod OE Denso plugs

    I just used offset tin-snips then hit the area briefly with a file.

    I would agree that the L6 would most certainly be a better choice in a 2way set-up..are the SE's out yet? I did read up on them...would be curious to read some feedback from those who have tried them.
     
  6. Jun 21, 2010 at 6:10 AM
    #6
    rscecil007

    rscecil007 Well-Known Member

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    No, they are out in a 45 days according to the latest from Scott. Since they play lower and higher than the reg L6's, seems a good option for an upgrade right now. I'm sure they will work great when I go 3 way later too.

    How bad are your doors rattling with those 8's in the doors? Have you got them pretty quiet by now?
     
  7. Jun 21, 2010 at 6:55 AM
    #7
    craigFLA

    craigFLA [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Leather, 20" rims, Borla cat-back exhaust, running boards, back up camera/3" screen in rear view mirror, carbon fiber interior trim. Tow Package. MODS: URD intake BHLM. Tinted tails & 3rd brake light Fog Light mod. 5pc Grill Craft (High Gloss Black powder-coat) T-Rex eye-lids AVS Wind Deflectors 3M Window Tint 15 front/30 rear OBX Sports Pedals Viper 5901 / remote start Pioneer AVIC F90BT-NAV Hybrid L8's in doors, L4's and Dynaudio MD102 tweets in custom kicks, morel rear-fill, JL TW5-13" sub, JBL MS-8, 2@Tru B475, Tru 4.65, PPI a600.2, PPI 456 X-over, Raamat BX2 and ensolite. relocated rear seats 3/4" Retrax cover electric dual "dead-bolt-lock" electric tailgate lock. electric Dynalock for Retrax Cover/custom fabricated case. kinetik second battery/power-gate isolation. Powerslot Cryogenic rotors, Hawks HPS Pads, SS lines,painted calipers&drums FULL trans flush mod OE Denso plugs

    So far so good...only at EXTREME volumes with heavy bass tracks do I get even a little resonance. I originally deadened my doors with Ramaat...went 150% coverage on the outer skin, 150% on the inner with 2 layers of ensolite... when I added the L8's I used Peel and seal / 6" x 25" roll per door! Deadened the inside of the inside skin (if that makes sense)...also deadened the inside of the plastic door panel...

    Its SOLID... very happy.
     
  8. Jun 21, 2010 at 7:12 AM
    #8
    craigFLA

    craigFLA [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Leather, 20" rims, Borla cat-back exhaust, running boards, back up camera/3" screen in rear view mirror, carbon fiber interior trim. Tow Package. MODS: URD intake BHLM. Tinted tails & 3rd brake light Fog Light mod. 5pc Grill Craft (High Gloss Black powder-coat) T-Rex eye-lids AVS Wind Deflectors 3M Window Tint 15 front/30 rear OBX Sports Pedals Viper 5901 / remote start Pioneer AVIC F90BT-NAV Hybrid L8's in doors, L4's and Dynaudio MD102 tweets in custom kicks, morel rear-fill, JL TW5-13" sub, JBL MS-8, 2@Tru B475, Tru 4.65, PPI a600.2, PPI 456 X-over, Raamat BX2 and ensolite. relocated rear seats 3/4" Retrax cover electric dual "dead-bolt-lock" electric tailgate lock. electric Dynalock for Retrax Cover/custom fabricated case. kinetik second battery/power-gate isolation. Powerslot Cryogenic rotors, Hawks HPS Pads, SS lines,painted calipers&drums FULL trans flush mod OE Denso plugs

    L6 / L8 refers to Hybrid Audio Legathia (spelling?) series drivers.

    Dont know if the rear doors have the clearance to be honest...never checked.. I have morel 6" bi-ample drivers in the rear doors powered by a Tru 4.65 (realistically probably set around 25 watts) for rear fill...

    Normally having your soundstage up front is beneficial...many "audiophiles" dont even install drivers in the rear doors...

    I honestly do not remember what the front OE speakers were...would have to do a search.

    Took me a FULL day (nearly 8 hours) to squeeze these babies in...and that was with the baffles and shims pre-fabricated by Marv..my doors already deadened, and the stinger 10-gauge wiring already ran!

    Ended up carefully heating the inside of the plastic door panels with a heat gun just before re-installing to help them conform...and snap back in place... very very tight fit!

    Now I know I'm not the quickest sometimes with these projects as I can be a bit of a perfectionist...and although I've been doing this "stuff" for awhile I'm certain there are other more "seasoned" installers who frequent this site than I...but I'm pretty comfortable in saying there was nothing "easy" about this upgrade..lol ;)
     
  9. Jun 21, 2010 at 7:18 AM
    #9
    rscecil007

    rscecil007 Well-Known Member

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    I can see that. Marv and I talked several times at length about putting these in my doors, and I finally decided to go with the L6 SE.

    My fabrication bravery is not as up to snuff as you my man!
     
  10. Jun 21, 2010 at 7:34 AM
    #10
    Mr Marv

    Mr Marv 1-831-383-0308 Vendor

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    Glad they worked out Craig! Is there a specific reason you needed to put the adapter in upside down ie maybe the door panel won't go on with the speaker that high? (looks like I should make a modification so it will cover the entire hole if in fact they must go in upside down).
     
  11. Jun 21, 2010 at 7:38 AM
    #11
    dolbytone

    dolbytone Well-Known Member

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    I was wondering that myself.
     
  12. Jun 21, 2010 at 7:47 AM
    #12
    rscecil007

    rscecil007 Well-Known Member

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    I just noticed that. If they weren't upside down, looks like maybe the metal wouldn't have needed to be trimmed, or maybe just very little filed off?
     
  13. Jun 21, 2010 at 8:07 AM
    #13
    craigFLA

    craigFLA [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hey Marv...I originally tried the baffle clocked 180 degrees/ or the way I presume you had intended it. Everything fit fine as far as clearing the window etc., but I could not get the door panel back on.

    The baffle seem to clear by itself, but when I used the shim & driver it didnt.

    The panel seemed to hit at the top of the baffle/speaker. It hit the plastic door panel above the top of the plastic speaker grill area...near the curve in the door panel.

    By "clocking" the baffle and lowering the speaker location I was able to gain the clearance required.

    Dont know if theres really anything you could change in the baffle itself. In hind-site if you "widened" the baffle to cover the small gap at the top of the speaker opening it would probably clear, as long as the shim and driver still sat low.

    Wouldnt do anything different at the bottom of the baffle/speaker opening though as it would just hang lower than the curve of the door and probably create issues there...

    Cutting the door opening was the easiest part of the project...and after I installed the baffles I was easily able to "peen" (from the inside with a small hammer with the window UP) the door metal where I had cut to meet the baffle cleanly. Once I deadened everything (inside and out) it was VERY solid...no issues.

    I can email you pics of the passenger side with the baffle clocked the other way (the way it didnt work for me) if it helps you in later designs/modifications to the baffle...let me know.

    Thanks for all your help. I'll give you a call later in the week...and will be placing an order for the L-4 pretty quick as I'll be starting a new and improved set of kicks this weekend to house them :)
     
  14. Jun 21, 2010 at 8:11 AM
    #14
    craigFLA

    craigFLA [OP] Well-Known Member

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    You are correct...When I first installed the baffle that way, I only needed to take a very small amount of door metal...but again...they just didnt clear that way!
     
  15. Jun 21, 2010 at 8:15 AM
    #15
    rscecil007

    rscecil007 Well-Known Member

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    I know that curve in the door panel you're talking about that you thought hit when oriented the right way.

    Think if the baffle was oriented the right way, and maybe trimmed or camfered some at the top, it might have fit?

    Don't know, just thinking out loud here...
     
  16. Jun 21, 2010 at 8:17 AM
    #16
    Mr Marv

    Mr Marv 1-831-383-0308 Vendor

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    Thanks Craig and pictures would be great! I have an idea for a modification that I think will solve all of those issues in order to get 8's in there a little easier. Talk to you later this week
     
  17. Jun 21, 2010 at 8:24 AM
    #17
    craigFLA

    craigFLA [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Nope. The baffle by itself was fine. I know Marv and others make/use 1" baffles all the time for other drivers without issue. Its the 1" baffle, plus the 1/4" shim, plus the driver itself that hit the curve in the panel.

    Trust me...I spent 3 hours trouble shooting the passenger door trying to keep the baffles orientated the way they were intended...

    In the end...the driver just needs to sit lower in the door to clear the panel. No biggie really...

    Now that its known...Marv can make any adjustments he thinks may help...and make the whole thing SO MUCH easier for the next guy...

    This was one of the best decisions/upgrades I have made!!!!!! Would recommend it to anyone...just remember...DEADENER!!!!!!!!!! When you think you have enough...your about 1/2 way there!!!...lol...
     
  18. Jun 21, 2010 at 8:28 AM
    #18
    rscecil007

    rscecil007 Well-Known Member

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    Ah, ok, I gotcha. Marv to the rescue! LOL
     
  19. Jun 21, 2010 at 8:42 AM
    #19
    craigFLA

    craigFLA [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I put a link on my first post of the thread I started after my original install...lots of pics of my install...including deadener... might be worth checking out if your getting ready to do your install...
     
  20. Jun 21, 2010 at 9:59 AM
    #20
    craigFLA

    craigFLA [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Vehicle:
    Tacoma TRD Sport Pkg.#1, XSP Package
    Leather, 20" rims, Borla cat-back exhaust, running boards, back up camera/3" screen in rear view mirror, carbon fiber interior trim. Tow Package. MODS: URD intake BHLM. Tinted tails & 3rd brake light Fog Light mod. 5pc Grill Craft (High Gloss Black powder-coat) T-Rex eye-lids AVS Wind Deflectors 3M Window Tint 15 front/30 rear OBX Sports Pedals Viper 5901 / remote start Pioneer AVIC F90BT-NAV Hybrid L8's in doors, L4's and Dynaudio MD102 tweets in custom kicks, morel rear-fill, JL TW5-13" sub, JBL MS-8, 2@Tru B475, Tru 4.65, PPI a600.2, PPI 456 X-over, Raamat BX2 and ensolite. relocated rear seats 3/4" Retrax cover electric dual "dead-bolt-lock" electric tailgate lock. electric Dynalock for Retrax Cover/custom fabricated case. kinetik second battery/power-gate isolation. Powerslot Cryogenic rotors, Hawks HPS Pads, SS lines,painted calipers&drums FULL trans flush mod OE Denso plugs

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