Hydraulic booster issues?

That’s what my wife just said when I told her.

 

Hope the job is going well for you, and that you'll post updates when done.

One thought, make sure you aren't losing fluid from the rack, if so you'll need to pull it and replace or rebuild. (I recommend rebuild if there's a machine shop close by) It's kind of a PITA, but still DIY territory. You have to loosen the AC compressor to clear bolts, but then you can install them upside down which makes installation and future removal easier.

 

I definitely will. Ordering parts tonight and tomorrow. My neighbor is letting me use his garage the week after Christmas, I’ll start the repair work then. Until then I’m watching a bunch of videos on how to do all this work. Bearing replacement and seals x2, 1 new axel seal, new inner tie rods x2 and 2 new UCA’s that are designed to help with lifted trucks. About the new UCAs. The ball joints are good but had a heck of a time finding a shop that could aligned my truck. So I thought I would lower my 5100’s down one notch from the very highest. This will help with the ride, the stance and with towing squat. Do y’all think by lowering my 5100s down to 1.75 that my aligning issues would go away- or should I just go ahead and upgrade the UCAs?

‘found this gem
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=huMztKaHsUE

 

Update: all of this is the first time for me lol.

Q. I disassembled the front end on both sides. Pulled the cv axel out on the drivers side to replace the seal. I found a post on how to re install the new seal. I keep reading on how to use a 2” pvc coupling and seal press kit. I’m assuming the pvc coupling is put against the rubber seal, then the seal press kit disk is placed next? I ordered a seal and it was wrong. So hunting down another. Figured it out.

Q. I need to replace the wheel seal in between the cv axel and the knuckle. I think I can use a screwdriver to knock it out. To put a new one in would I use a block of wood and slowly tap it in? Figured it out

-Replaced the upper ball joints. I kept the original UCA’s in place so I had to cut the threaded bolt off then pressed them up. Installing the new Moog boots on those ball joints was interesting. I ended up using a ball joint removal tool part and a large C clamp to press the new boots over the ball OD. It was easier than using channel locks like Moog instructs.
-Doing the bearing’s tomorrow.
-Taking the struts out tomorrow to adjust them down one notch down.
-Installing a drop hit for the drive shaft.
-Installed both swaybar links tomorrow