HYPER FLASH WTF!!

Ok I’m sure my issue isn’t unique but here we go. I have every bulb replaced with LEDs on my 2016 SR, I have the amber DRL. In the DRL location I have an LED switchback (amber drl, amber running, lights on goes to white but blinks amber). I got hyper flash when I installed all LEDs, which I expected and wired in resistors (50W). I STILL have hyper flash and I am truly left scratching my head. The resistors are in the tail lights. Do I need two more resistors for the front? What am I missing here??

 

Look at the circuit diagram that should tell you. But why not simply put stock Bulbs back in the front and see if hyper flash goes away? If it does, you know what to do, if it doesn’t you messed up installing resistors in the back.

 

I’m guessing you have the regular amber drl/turn signal head light assemblies like me. If you do, you might have to put some resistors on the corner amber bulbs and front amber bulbs. If I’m wrong then I’m wrong.

 

Usually you need to add an equal number of resistors as LED bulbs.

 

What resistance resistors did you add?

You need the truck to think all the bulbs are good.

The total resistance of the circuit needs to be similar to stock.

@MESO

 

I thought it was current not resistance? LED's offer high resistance (because they're diodes), but don't draw much current. I've never done it before, but that is what I always assumed.

I've always been curious to know if you use a resistor to remove hyperflashing because you have LED's, what tells you if the LED has burned out? The current can still flow through the resistor, so I would imagine the vehicle won't respond the same way it should for a burned out bulb.

 

More resistance =less current

Less resistance = more current

At a given voltage

They go hand in hand.

The problem with diodes is voltage only flows one way and they draw way less current.

The truck thinks a bulb is blown because the load dropped off. The resistor puts load back into the system.

Remember a filament bulb is just a resistor.

 

I wonder what Meso has done to avoid the issue in their Stage 1 tail light kit? I just installed it last light and it works fine.
I think I’ve seen old videos where the kit used to come with resisters.

 

Do you know the stock turn signal wattage?

 

Hold on now..

You guys are saying the LED bulbs draw a lot less current than a regular filament bulb, so the truck "thinks" a bulb is blown.
How is adding a resistor in series with the LED bulb going to help that situation?
Would you not have to create a parallel path to increase the overall draw of the circuit and "trick" the truck into a regular flash duration?
Yeah I know the resistor would have to be a fairly high wattage and the appropriate value to not cause fires lol.
Am I missing something?

 

Yes i miss spoke that's why i edited.

He needs to add load across.

 

All of the turn signal bulbs, can you read the wattage off of them and post it

 

Can you change out the flasher with an led compatibile one on a 3rd gen?

 

On the halogen or LED bulbs??

 

No

 

Lame.

 

The original halogen

 

As someone else mentioned, you may need more resistance in the circuit.
Here is an image of my Amazon orders back when I was trying to mess around with LEDs before I bought a kit from MESO.
See a pattern? I think the 15 Ohm resistors ended up solving my hyperflash issue, and I didn't have LEDs up front.

 

Looks like your front turn signal bulb is a 25 watt 7440 bulb

P=V^2 / R

25 = 13.5* 13.5 /R

R= 7.29 ohms.

So, I might try a 10 or 15 to start with but be prepared to go lower.